Womenswear

Calvin Klein by Appointment by Mike Tyle

I have to say I am quite surprised by the addition to the label! Raf and team have enough on their plate with this umbrella of a brand to work with that adding yet another line wasn't something I saw coming. But I think it a great way to bring his past experience of couture to a label known for its minimalist sportswear regardless of how viable it will be. I mean it's not like CK is hurting for cash so they might as well bring forward a made-to-measure line that was before exclusive to red carpet starlets.

Aside from that it's interesting to see how Raf reinvents Americana in this 14 look collection, each representing a decade in American woman's fashion from the 20-00 reinvented. 

The ad images are a tongue in cheek view of what CK has to offer from it's money maker underwear to the new high-end one of a kind pieces. It also give us an idea of what to expect from the direction Raf will lead future campaigns and the clothes we will all be lining up to buy. 

Franca Sozzani by Mike Tyle

1950- 2016

With a heavy heart I learned this afternoon that Franca has passed earlier today.

Such an influential figure in fashion bringing Vogue Italia to the forefront using powerful images to portray how the global climate affects fashion and in turn effects the the world.

Here is a slideshow from some of my favorite photos which was difficult to choose from an editorial archive spanning 1988-2016. Featuring some of the amazing and striking stories that show the encompassing power and boundary pushing Franca allowed photographers to portray in her magazine.

Thank you Franca and rest in peace.

Kenzo x H&M by Mike Tyle

While we have to wait until Nov. 3rd to line up for the newest collaboration at least half the wait is over. The lookbook for the forthcoming Kenzo x H&M line came out today!

Keeping with Kenzo tradition the collection is full of color and print featuring several reincarnations of past highlights such as F16 zebra stripe & geo/flower trims. However a Kenzo staple, the tiger, has been altered for the line. The below slideshow are feature some of my must have items from the 40+ looks presented.

The images features several performers and social activist and could not be more different from the last H&M collab with Balmain. Unlike Balmain with the in your face Kardashian factor I don't think Kenzo will sell out within hours. Instead I foresee it will go more the direction of Margiela or Marni collections. Of course the line will be out the door and there will be some items gone in minutes. Don't get me wrong I am in LOVE and need several pieces ASAP but commercially it is a much more difficult for the average consumer to understand. Which means... easier for me to get ahold of!

I also find it an interesting collaboration from a selling stand point. Obviously, Kenzo has been a hyped brand ever since Humberto Leon & Carol Lim took the reigns. This will open the brand to a larger customer base. However similar to the A.Wang line, but unlike other past design collaborations, Kenzo is more of a contemporary level brand, tiered higher than "fast fashion" but lower than traditional high-end & fellow past collaborators such as Versace, Lanvin or Stella McCartney. For ex: Kenzo embroidered tiger sweater retails for $195, Balmain mohair with naval buttons is $990.

H&M Campaigns by Mike Tyle

H&M really shows what it takes to be a clothing company in 2016. Celebrating diversity & equality.

As ADweek put it: "H&M has created a feminist anthem soundtracked by a classically misogynist song, for a spot meant to redefine how you think women should look, act and think, where they stand in society..."

Spot on.

Entertaining, opinionated, off-beat and fearless. Bad-ass, independent and free-willed. Lauren Hutton, Adwoa Aboah, Hari Nef, Pum Lefebure and Jillian Hervey fronts H&M's new campaign for autumn 2016, accompanied by a new version of "She's a lady", created and performed by the duo Lion Babe.

Another remarkable H&M campaign launched last year with the same ad agency, Forsman & Bodenfors, featuring the voice-over of Iggy Pop shows how being yourself can be stylish however you see fit. But above all what really is cool is recycling items you no longer need.

Lupita by Mike Tyle

I don't mean for this blog to be a magazine post every time, but... some things just need to be mentioned.

Like God damn! 3x Vogue cover girl Lupita looks STUNNING. Everything about this is perfection. She gets better every time. Anna must really love her and honestly what isn't to love? Not only does she photograph perfectly but she is well spoken and is using her platform for good!

 

This photoshoot inside is also amazing. The clothes work great with the setting and let's be real she can wear anything you put on her.

Here are some of my fave images from the editorial shot my Testino & styles by Tonne Goodman.

HBIC by Mike Tyle

How does the saying go? Don't hate the player hate the game.

To say that Gigi has been everywhere the past year is like me saying Hi, my name is Mike. I'm gay and love mesh.

This months HB's cover has the Hadid sister looking as fab as she always does. Only this isn't just any cover it's the inaugural Age issue... I can't wait to read 21 year old Gigi's secrets to her youthful glow.

Bally Fan by Mike Tyle

Having just spent a long weekend with a good friend of mine from Switzerland, shout out to you Jeremy, I am again reminded of Bally. Looking back at the evolution of past collections Pablo Coppola has consistently gotten it right since taking the reigns with FW14.

Not only are the accessories on point but the clothing just keeps getting better! Coppola himself said "the clothes are the accessories to the accessories" which coming from a company founded in 1851 on shoes makes perfect sense. It doesn't however deter me from wanting to wear multiple looks head to toe each season.

The Swiss brand remains in a fun bright dynamic nod to mod preppy 60's/70's direction but has recently gone in a more adventurous quirky way with SS17 that has worked well for the more obvious dandy man Alessandro Michele has created at Gucci.

Menswear is a difficult business. While it may be joining womenswear in terms of churning trends there is still the big challenge of dressing the average man! But being one of the biggest names on the Swiss luxury market known for it's paired down, conservative, yet equally as complex goods has worked well for the brand.

As women's SS17 shows started up this week I will be looking out for  what Bally has in store.

Here's some of my fave look from over the years:

Raf Simons for Calvin Klein by Mike Tyle

By now this is no surprise. Starting in April the rumor mill was already rampant and by August it was confirmed.

I've waited a bit to put my thought down but personally, I am here for it! I do wish he spent more time focusing on his eponymous line... but I can't hate, get that American coin!

I think it will be great for Calvin Klein. The official word from the company: “A new brand direction will ultimately follow one creative vision across all categories of the business.” is a big deal both for Raf and CK. To have his creative focus really streamline the brand will be quite interesting to see.

But it is a lot. There are tons of sub-brands! Of course PVH (the company that owns CK among other heavy hitters like Tommy) is. A. Machine. Unlike Dior there are MANY teams and licensees that are constantly developing the lines Raf will oversee. From an outsiders perspective he likely will put his main focus on Collection, hopefully keeping chances of a burn out to a minimal (however Collection is more or less for marketing purposes) and just giving his ok on direction and finished product for the other lines..

While we all know Raf can do modern, timeless, clean and minimal. How will his image of the CK man affect the customer? What worried me is that Calvin Klein is known for machismo athleticism. Raf has, in the past, been all about waif, sexless boys. That is what intrigues me. How will he make the red line from Collection through to Underwear coherent while keeping the best-sellers unaffected.

Let's just hope he stays long enough to see how it will impact the everyday consumer!

Wolves by Mike Tyle

This is how you make Balmain not look straight off the set of Dynasty.

KANYE WEST "WOLVES" Directed by: Steven Klein Creative Director: Olivier Rousteing Concept and Creative Direction: Pascal Dangin Cast: In Alphabetical Order Alessandra Ambrosio Jordan Barrett Ysaunny Brito Dilone Jourdan Dunn Ronald Epps Jon Kortajarena Francisco Lachowski Sasha Luss Riley Montana Josephine Skriver Joan Smalls With: Maria Borges Anna Cleveland Cindy

What I am living for #6 by Mike Tyle

WEAR:

Black. The weather in Brussels this summer has been raining, cold and depressing plus I have been mourning my youth now that I turned 30.

SHOP:

For my big 3-0 I received a gift card to Dries van Noten and am over the top excited to go to town! Aside from that umm it's about to be July. I have my sale list ready!

DESIGN:

Ikea. I know. But seriously. They are stepping up their game over there in Sweden. Snatching those H&M wig's and turning it into home décor realness: Katie Eary (Hello, brain!), Walter van Beirendonck (I seriously need this Tiger rug STAT) and overly freaking out about the new HAY and Tom Dixon collections. What kind of dream team collabs…

SEE:

The latest Gucci F/W16 campaign. No more words necessary.

Presenting a video from the Gucci Fall Winter 2016 campaign. Wandering from tea houses to pachinko parlors with carefree abandon, the Gucci kids collide with the chaotic lights and sounds of Tokyo. The psychedelic scenography is echoed in the energy and decoration in Alessandro Michele's collection.

LISTEN:

Anohni 'Hopelessness' is still on repeat.

COLOR:

Christo and Jeanne-Claude: The Floating Piers, Lake Iseo, Italy.  The stark marigold catwalk agains the deep blues of the lake are breathtaking ans more than just Intsagram worthy.

What I am living for #5 by Mike Tyle

Gucci. What more do I need to say?

Each season is getting better and this years Cruise campaign still has me hooked!

I need to BE an awkward skinny dancing queen in a villa.

In other news, as of last night, I now look like this:

My Spring/Summer theme this year will be 70's porn. So expect lot's of short shorts and mesh. 

Both of which I already own lots of.

Tom Ford S/S16 by Mike Tyle

Tom Ford can be tricky. I love his dapper 60's looks, especially menswear, but when he goes into later decades it can be a red flag. 

However eschewing the normal catwalk this season Ford teamed up with Nick Night and Lady Gaga for an awesome music video showing off the collection in motion. Gaga looks great, the clothes look fun the awkward model dancing is great and the love the song.

Enjoy!

Prada Archive by Mike Tyle

Prada, my love.

The newly revamped Prada website now including "A Future Archive" comes with a ton of great features allowing the fan to view all collections, ads & videos from past seasons.

Including one of my favorite videos of all time:

"Thunder Perfect Mind" Daria Werbowy reading from the Gnostic Manuscript to a jazz soundtrack and filmed in Berlin. Le sigh.

What's not to love?!

In honor of the big release I've posted below some of my favorite Prada campaigns.

It's really interesting to see how the red line follows through the clothes while still evolving. Distinctly Prada even when the themes are ever changing.

My only issue with the website is that for the most part there are only 2 images from the ads for each season instead of all of the photos for each collection! Hopefully some day it will be in it's entirety.

Prada Resort 15 by Mike Tyle

Happy Halloween! My gift to you is the new Prada campaign which dropped today.

Stunning and creepy.

As always Prada has won me over again!

With all Prada campaigns you never know how they merchandise will be reflected in the advertisements (especially the always enjoyable and arty look books) and this season was no different. The black and white brings out the contrast stitching but as opposed to using color the juxtaposition is stark yet also subtle.

Alexander Wang X H&M by Mike Tyle

The collaboration of the season. It's been talked about for months and finally the moment is here!

Well not THE moment... everyone will have to wait until Nov. 6th to line up and buy the goods. But until then we've had sneak peaks and leaked looks. This past week the whole collection was unveiled and now the runway show which occurred last night shows it in all it's Wang-ness.

As one could only expect from Wang it is a collection full of militant fashionable sporty looks: second skin, neoprene and mesh all mixed with leather and bonded details. Of course the WANG logo incorporated throughout. Good news is while T and H&m probably already shared factories now we can get the looks at a more affordable price.

Here are a few of my favorite pieces from the collaboration:

It's Gemma, bitch! by Mike Tyle

Gemma Ward opening & Lara Stone closing. Only Prada could make this happen and it did.

Sasha in the middle would have been a welcome surprise but I have to say I literally almost fell out of my chair when I saw Gemma walk out. It's been since fucking 2008! I don't blame her for leaving and being hesitant to coming back but I welcome her presence and look forward to more.

Top Resort '15 review by Mike Tyle

Can we first talk about how many lookbooks Bo Don got this season... was not expecting it but get that money girl!

Before I get on to my (possibly tipsy) Twitter style reviews of the shows... Here you can see all the looks that I liked the most.

Now... onto some shade/no shade.

3.1 Philip Lim: Sixities theme. Safe. Nice colorways. Those pants in look 23... questionable.

Acne: Oversize and quirky. check and check. Both things Acne knows how to do best. Wasn't feeling the bamboo closures.

Akris: Distracting Greek(?) street background. A lot of chic yet German looking casual wear.

Alexander McQueen: Look #3 gave me SS15 menswear vibes, which is a nice pairing. Seemed more McQ to me in that it was pretty wearable for a normal McQueen look book. I'm not a big flower fan near the end... but loving all of the outerwear made up for it!

Alexander Wang: Look #1 was a lot of look to start off with. I do like the idea of incorporating workwear elements which Wang is always keen to do. Wasn't my fave from him but he's busy.

Altuzarra: As always anything Joseph Altuzarra does I am a fan of. The man knows how to make an A-line skirt and baggy blouse work. His corporate chic meets boho-gypsy designs get me every time.

BCBG Max Azria: Anytime there is a windblown look happening it gets a pass... in this case the whole collection was done on a beach. Naturally I had a lot of favorites... call me a basic mall bitch if you will.

Balenciaga: Still working the colorblind look. Luckily there are some sharp silhouettes to match. Wang had me until the asymmetrical hems came out. But again... he's busy between H&M, T and sharing the fabrics with his eponymous line.

Balmain: Binx does Dynasty with a dash of Kim K. Bebe will be all over this.

Bottega Veneta: Doing what a Resort collection was created to do... sell. I really enjoyed the batik direction the 2nd half went into.

Burberry Prorsum: I always look forward to the Burberry look books! They are well photographed and the clothes tell a story. As always everything was nice but I felt the story being told was, well, nothing new.  I mean, ugh, dip-dye? Still going strong I see. The fabrics and looks seemed just like remixes to familiar styles... trench-update aside.

Calvin Klein Collection: I love me some CK collection. That first coat on Ewers was EVERYTHING. Always innovative fabrics and thankfully finally back in a modern clean streamlined silhouette. I am still having nightmares about Pre-Fall 14...

Carven: Sporty yet girly with innovative fabric mix come to me! Gone is the dirndl-esque girl of yesteryear, far from a hater here, but a new more confident woman has emerged. I could have done without the logo but it was still more tastefully done than Wang SS14.

Chanel: I want to say it was bait racist... but I am sure the middle east will eat this collection up and Chanel will have made their quarter profit on the first day it hits stores.

Christopher Kane: I am on the fence. I think a lot can be done with the styles as separates... I really liked all the stories told and while all different went well together. I would personally nix the cheap looking flower pins/buttons. But Kane always needs a little something quirky to show off.

DKNY: I get it. Baseball caps are a look. But 27 of them?

Derek Lam: It worked for Philip Lim. It seems the 60's are an inspiration all around. Keep at it because it works well.

DVF: I can't. Wendy Williams can wear it well but I didn't find anything new here.

Diesel Black Gold: Saint Laurent meets Sandro.

DSquared2: Fierce. Leave it to the twins to bring to life another campy theme. As always 60 & 70's were prevalent and as always I wanted more.

Erdem: The things you can do with lace, flowers and ruffles. In this case it wasn't the usual Erdem affair but one breaking away from the frilly older women and into a more trend-driven playful girl. Gave me F13 Erdem vibes and I am happy to see a revival.

Fendi: Mesh, pop graphics and of course a bit of fur. Binx rocked these Eurocentric looks and the Logo splashed across the items surprisingly added to the fun.

Gucci: following a 60's Mod inspired F14 comes a resort of the same ilk. The only issue I find is in the fact that many looks could also have come out of a J.Crew catalog.

Herve Leger: Pure Sex. Balmain meets Versace and a high-end better manufactured Bebe was born.

Hugo Boss: I am obsessed with Jason Wu's take on the Hugo Boss woman. Clean, chic, modern still very Hugo Boss but with a twist. I look forward to seeing what the next seasons will provide.

Jason Wu: Neutral palette and clean looks. It was feeling a bit in the direction of Boss wich is a good thing in this case.

Jil Sander: I don't know a time when I haven't found something to love about a Jil Sander collection (the same goes for the Navy line) this case it was no different, bell shapes and monochrome colors. Looks like the new Head of Design is a better fit than expected.

Jonathan Saunders: More of this please. Great individual pieces in color block and interesting prints. Basically what one should expect from a Jonathan Saunders collection. Gold, beige, sliver, bright blues... stripes and lamé fabrics gave the 70's feel Saunders is known for.

Josh Groot: Not yet a household name and came a bit out of left fieId but the clean simple modern lines, black and while minimalism got to me.... basically I was LOVING everything.

Kenzo: Was having some F09/S13 LV feelings. Maybe not so much the bunny and mod themes but never the less some of the fabrics and silhouettes went there. As always I expect Leon & Lim to know the direction they want to take us in and know it well. This season was just as bright and graphic as ever. Yet again cementing their way as fan faves.

Lanvin: Nice Lanvin fodder. But I'm mostly here for Jamie Bochert. Throw in some thin scarves in place of heavy jewelry Lanvin is known for and you have Lanvin collection as expected full of high end fabrics and silhouettes to match. 

Louis Vuitton: F14 rehash with more embellishments and spring colors. Enjoyed the innovative fabrics.

MSGM: Keep doing what you are doing. It's working. Graphic, girly yet modern. 

Margiela: Simple- I. Want. Everything.

Marc Jacobs: Mess. Next. 

Marc by Marc: Better than the main line. Also prob more sellable than Bartley & Hilliers first soldier themed (yet v. cool) showing.

Marni: This and very season of Marni need much more publicity. For such a storied fashion house which a specific aesthetic it seriously grows and gets better every fucking season. WORK!!!

Mary Katrantzou: YES. I am so glad she isn't a one trick pony. I am always ALWAYS wondering what she will pull next. She knows what works and how to push it in the next direction. As far as Resort goes this could easily have been a full FW/SS styled collection. 

Miu Miu: Daphnie from Scooby Doo want's her clothes back. If it is one thing that Miu Miu knows how to do it's bringing 60's back every season and making it just as new and cool as always.

Mugler: David Korma for Mugler just makes sense.

Nina Ricci: The only difference between any Nina Ricci collection is basically that since S10 it hasn't been designed by Theyskens. Otherwise just as French and feminine as always.

No. 21: Yet another diffusion line getting it better than the main brand. This seasons No. 21 brought the Italian flair and newness I always expect from them. Wish I could see every girl wearing these clothes.

Peter Pilotto: As always there is A LOT happening. The photos are jarring but as all Pilotto designs look wonderful in real life.

Prabal Gurung: Bold color blocking and graphic paint strokes, but not in the vain of Celine. Always a fan just next time no Lurex please.

Preen: I really don't know which line to review since they are both separate but equal in my eyes. Both showed sport directions with bold colors and fabric mix with the Preen stipe in place. Biggest qualm for me was the cheap looking denim print. Never again. I beg of the two of you.

Proenza Schouler: Bam! Proenza graphics and sharp silhouettes one expects; while theres nothing new  it's all perfect.

Public School; More and more the design duo's line is being talked about and this collection of evolved basics explains why.

Rag & Bone: Effortlessly cool. From the background to the styles themselves. Basically this is how casual should be done. Point blank chic.

Roksanda Ilincic: Work those color block statements! A very impressive collection this season. Zglad to see Roksanda growing into a well-rounded yet distinct look.

Stella McCartney: Fun & serious. 2 things the Stella customer looks for. I personally liked the first 10 looks (strong silhouettes) and the last 10 looks (full on bold stripes and paisley).

Suno: wasn't feeling it these season.

Thakoon: What can I say I always find Thakoon enjoyable but I also think it's always at risk of becoming a Zara collection that costs more and has better fabrics.

The Row: I don't want to say they are taking notes from Margiela but the fabrics the design aesthetic and the silhouette are putting the Twins at the same level.

Thom Browne: Crazy show is crazy. The aftermath that will actually make it to stores will be crave-worthy. Who knew prep and florals could work. I mean it's overloaded to the max but it's Thom Browne. Somehow the end product always makes sense.

Tory Burch: The things this woman could make me like... In general I am not a fan but when I see the look books and catwalk shows every season it make me understand why she is banking so much. Think Anthro and Banana Republic had a baby.

Valentino: Unlike when Chanel does 90 looks for a resort collection I am ALWAYS excited to go through Valentino's creations. I could have done without the butterfly cammo they are still trying to make happen but everything else was perfection. What other brand can meld the medieval looks they churn out every seasons with 60's style mod dresses?! I especially loved the crazy block graphics and of course the leather laser cut lace. Which is saying a lot since not many people besides Prada F08 can make me feel that way about lace.

Vionnet: Dragonfly print was a cool idea.

Pre-Fall 14 part 4 by Mike Tyle

With this 3rd & 4th installments I again found it really difficult when choosing one of my fave looks to show (ehm Valentino...). Nevertheless there were some great Pre-Fall collections and I am excited to see how they will do in stores as well as give direction to the comming FW14 season.

Lanvin- Classic Lanvin.

Louis Vuitton- Well done considering it was made between creative directors coming and going. But there were times I felt like I was looking at 2 very different collections. The first half was very LV/artsy the 2nd half was commercial as could be. While it may have been a jarring change in scenery and style the LV women was still obvious and the fabrics and cuts proved it.

Marni- It's hard for me not to like a Marni collection. This season was no different. I loved just about every look. There isn't much to say in terms of direction. Compared to SS14 this was more in a usual Marni fashion which was not broing in the least. Still playing with oversize silhouette, great furs and wool and lovely shoes. It had a bit or a MiuMiu feeling in several looks which I a not complaining about in the least. All in all print and fabric direction were what I except them to be... great!

Margiela- It's Margiela. You never know what to expect but as always I was excited to see what the team would come up with this time reinventing everyday wardrobe pieces into something so different yet so right. A subdued palette of grey, navy and black mixed with menswear styles. Oversize was the theme this season and it worked perfectly in terms of big cardigans, men's shirts with large sleeves, folded over men's pants moving into draped shift dresses and fur. Really you can't go wrong.

Matthew Williamson- Femine and bright colors, what more can one ask for from a Matthew Williamson pre-fall collection.

MaxMara- I got major Derek Lam vibes from this collection. Very clean and modern yet something about it was tired. Maybe because it skewed a bit old? the colors? One thing for sure, like Lam, wide-leg floods are not helping anyone.

No. 21- I find No.21 to be superior to big brother Alessandro Dell’Acqua. The right amount of wear-ability but still a little something that makes the customer know that the garment is special. This season I felt though that the over-all effect was a bit too close to a high end J.Crew. Maybe it was the military colors and sequence.

Nina Ricci- Work! As always the Ricci girl is ambiguous for being both girly and flirty yet sexy and seducing. this collection was no different. Keep that money coming!

Preen- I usually love Preen. Prints, colors, silhouette always on point. While there were several looks that I really liked and I also enjoyed the deep blueish pruple and pumpkin orange colors I found the bird theme could have been done in a much less gimmicky way. Also the writing on the jackets was not cute.

Pucci- I picture the Pucci girl skiing... Pucci girls don't ski but they do go to the Alps. That is where I picture this girl suited up and printed out. Bright fuschia, teal and ethnic prints to really stand out from the snow.

Ralph Lauren- Pure American Ralph. This is one of the best collections I have seen from RL in a long time, while the Ralph Lauren girl always stays true to clean sophisticated American sportswear. This time around there were no gimmicks or obvious themes aside form unpretentiously pretentious Upper-West Side women. Clean cashmere, jersey, silk, fur in tones of grey and beige shows that you don't need much to make something perfect. Classic.

Roberto Cavalli- Exactly what one would expect from a Cavalli line. Full of metallic, beading, embroidery and most importantly animal print! Italian in every way but as quick as this could look cheap I somehow always love it. I know I don't understand it either...

Roksanda IIincic- Very grown-up compared to other collection. I don't mean to say that the prior seasons were juvenile I just feel that the collection has the clear direction I have been searching for. This season the mix of bonded wool and the felt with scultpural silhouettes in bold colors was it.

Roland Mouret- I found the photography and model designer distracting. I get the idea was to show how everyday glamorous the collection could be but sadly I was too distracted by the lighting and surroundings to notice the garments which is a pity as Mouret is known for a great clean cut and red carpet ready looks. Good thing award season is upon us and I can see the dresses soon.

The Row- Modern, classic, conventional and yet so different from anything we are seeing. The Olsens have really brought forth another great collection of everyday basics but with luxury fabrics that eschew constantly changing themes instead showing whole other thought process to the way these pieces are worn. So constrained and meticulous yet easy.

Sonia Rykiel- The clothes looked comfy but I don't know if it was the angles or the model but she looked short and frumpy in a couple shots. I really liked how the print dresses ran off at the bottom though. Really shows design in the details which is always important.

Stella McCartney- Just when you think polka dots are done.... If there is one thing the Stella girl can do it is to make a masculine style feminine and sexy. Mixing dots, herringbone and line drawn people with boxy cuts brought together the line. The shoes, as always, were perfect.

Thom Browne- A new type of camouflage and the idea of men's preppy striped ties were the direction of this season over at Browne. Naturally the color palette wasn't without the typical red, white and blue which were put to use on the zany, yet satirically challenging pieces. One thing about Thome brown is, even if it isn't your style, the work that goes into his clothes are unprecedented in the American market. Full of detail and interesting fabrics. I am always intrigued as to what he will come up with next. Pre-Fall was a bit less theatrical and more wearable than his usual runway shows but none-the-less full of really great tweed, fur, jacquard and chunky knit pieces.

Valentino- Love. Ok, get the first thing out of the way... that many look is not Pre-Fall friendly or necessary. However when you have such a strong design lead and look it is hard not to make great ideas come to life. Unlike with D&G while it may be reoccurring it is also evolving and in a direction that keeps me excited to see what will come next. Capes and animal motifs, muted tones of moss green, grown and black with a dash of feathers in the right places. The geometric mink patterned coat? I died.

Pre-Fall 14 part 3 by Mike Tyle

Soon enough will be time to work on Menswear FW14 and Couture S14!

As always check out my fave picks in Pinterest and leave me a comment on your thoughts on the collections as well!

Acne- Not many clothiers can recreate classic pieces in such quirky cool ways. leave it to the Swedish to do just that. This time featuring large proportions, shearling, neoprene, leather and silk. Hard to go wrong with that combination even better is the colorways full of watery teal, deep brown and creamy beige.

Alberta Ferretti-  A nautical theme with rich colors and textures. Lot's of flashes of bold hues mixed with deep neutrals... Much like the ocean. Beautiful luxury fabrics such as silk and fur embellished with gold wire embroideries for a naval effect. There was something different to this collection then what I have seen in the past from Ferretti and I like the direction it is going in.

Alexander McQueen- I was quite excited to see a designer play with tailors tack! I mean we see it often in the form of Margiela but in a whole different context. While the McQueen of Sarah Burton is no A.McQ to say the least I do think the more commercial direction she is leading the house in isn't a bad thing and the imagination has not been lost. Morphing of the menswear to more feminine evening wear starting with wool jackets and ending in rose embroidered taffeta dresses was the correct juxtaposition to keep the world of McQueen as we once knew it.

Armani- As much as I want to like Armani I just am not a fan. I will say this time wasn't a snooze-fest. Regardless I always bow at the fab. advertisements each season so Giorgio you still win. I was impressed with the fabrics used and the silhouettes while I find the designs always skew to a more 80's boxy influence I somehow got it this time. The color story was also on point. Some of the styling however caused me to side-eye what is happening over there in Milan.

Balenciaga- A strong collection for Wang full of technical fabrics and black & white. Both of which are becoming more and more synonymous as the typical Balenciaga x A.Wang mash-up. Not that I am complaining, it really seems to work well, creating interest and added value. You can also tell he hits those archives hard which can also be a good thing because with Balenciaga there is a long history of great work at the house which should be used and reinterpreted. Playing on volume and fabric mix has me hoping that the FW14 will be just as dramatic.

Balmain- I really liked it. Which is more or less a surprise as I have come to expect Balmain to bring Dynasty every season. Ok that was still there but mixed with safari which is something I always love. The colors were clean and just right. Khaki, hunter, navy with animal print thrown in... The fabrics were what one would expect for the highest price points imaginable. Lot's of leather, angora, metal embellished pieces. I hope this direction continues and am sure the customer base will grow as this incorporates a woman that isn't into clothes that are pure 80's sex.

Carven- I am always a Carven supporter. I love that the girl looks are growing up with the woman who wears them while still keeping the school girl charm. This season the collar really got my attention. Not only was it big but had just the right curve... Ok I am letting my designer brain get to me. Aside from that the berry tones and clean tartan checks used in mix with the bomber jackets, fisherman knits and twine closures added to the Carven look. I wasn't such a fan of the bib look that showed up in #22 but all in all the season was another winner for me.

Chloé- Pleasantly surprised. I understand Hannah MacGibbon hasn't been at the helm for a while but I am still always thankful that we have moved past those frumpy beige days. I really liked this season a lot better than last which was a bit too gypsy/handkerchief hem heavy for me. 

Christopher Kane- Bold colors, full skirts, fur, python print... it all worked really nicely. The collection had a classic approach but with nontraditional pieces that added something new to the mix, namely the wide curved straps that held it together or the chunky zippers. Then came the molecular science side of Kane which we have had glimpses of in the past and what seemed to have worked well. This time around I wasn't feeling it and with Men's FW14 carrying the theme further. I hope I won't get to sick of seeing the 3-D imagery as I am sure it will be heavily used in editorials the next few months.

Creatures of the Wind- Nice. Compared to past CotW collections it seemed more toned down but at the same time still quirky. A bit mod with a hint of hippie. Something perfect for an Anthro/Free People gal with even more dinero to spend on leather, silk and cashmere.

Dior- Wow, where has this been for all the other Dior by Raf shows... Finally the flowers are at a minimum, the Belgian look is showing up (where else would you see a New Look made out of a a MA jacket?) The fur coats with a shock of electric blue really drew my attention. I think the use of Dior in a new way this season really made me take notice and hope that this direction continues. The subtle use of the Dior look mixed with new ideas such as the take on leopard print, the he metallic checks or how the silk pieces meshed against tweed looks or the leather jacket.

Derek Lam- I loved the fabrics used chunky fur, mohair, velvet, bonded jersey, origami cuts.. but the cropped bell bottoms on the other hand... all in all it really goes to show the use of quality fabrics always deliver quite an impact and makes the price point justifiable.

Fausto Puglisi- Still with those damn rounded circle skirts... Loud, graphic and very Italian. Block contrast primary colors gave it a mod edge which I can always appreciate.

Fendi- Graphic, color blocked and furry as per usual. Karl Lagerfeld... Shade, no shade but if no one knew that you designed both Chanel and Fendi no body would believe it. As always I love Fendi and this season was no different. A nod to menswear this pre-fall with many modern layering pieces

Giambattista Valli- Brocade, fur, florals and leopard. Sounds familiar. While I found the direction for the pictures to mimc past lookbooks it didn't bother me. The camera angles gave movement to the garments as well as more interesting views of the styles.

Givenchy- Tribal meets tech. Modern with Bauhaus and Klee/Klimt influences yet full of fur, still with African influence and sequence reminiscent of SS14.

J.W. Anderson- Seemed a bit more wearable than previous seasons and def. more than the menswear. I appreciate the ascetic that Anderson tries with his clothing but at the same time it is obvious he is heavily influenced by Rei. The colors this season reminded me of Celine SS14 women's which was a hit so werk! 

Jonathan Saunders- Really impressed. I mean I am always impressed by Saunders but something about this collection drew me in. Very wearable and casual but with the right fabrics to make it still dressy. A definite menswear feel in a great color range of olive, salmon, black, white, ruby...