Womenswear

Pre-Fall 14 part 2 by Mike Tyle

See below post for the first half and as always I'd love to know what you thought of the looks this season.

J.Mendel- She looks warm but the use of fur isn't taking over. I especially love the chevron fur! Anything ox blood will get my pick and while some of the lace pieces weren't doing it for me the dramatic to the floor dresses are begging to be used all over the red carpet. Can't wait to see who will wear what!

Jason Wu- Cozy and sexy. Two things that do not usually happen at the same time. While there are many dressed up looks they all look easy to wear and effortlessly chic. Maybe it was the cuts or the colors but something was making me think Rodarte, as in what they should be doing... not what they have been doing

Michael Kors- Very clean, back to basics American sportswear approach. Although this is Michael Kors schtick he can do it like none other and reinvents the everyday women's closet every season. This time was no different only I wasn't feeling the 80's bow bibs

Missoni- Great collection! I loved the direction the collection was going in (look 26 aside...) very 60's/70's with cuts and colors I also enjoyed the Dada font has made an extension from the SS14 collectio

Mulberry- a bit blah, I wanted to like it but I don't know if it was the tied blouses or the drab colors but it was giving me a depressing conservative 80's vibe. Maybe it was the terrible backdrop ( Tory Burch and Mulberry must have done their pictures together). Maybe a design director is needed after all..

Prabal Gurung- There is a LOT going on here... from Betty Drapper tops to Saved by the bell colored knits. Oh and let's not forget the latex shoes.

Proenza Schouler- Not much to say except keep up the good work. Again they are doing what they do best. Making interesting clothes in nice fabric

Rag & Bone- Dying when I found out the starting point for the collection was basically 90's chavs. I think it actually translated well. The black was also surprisingly refreshing.

Reed Krakoff- Several Lang elements which isn't surprising in a Krakoff collection. I wasn't a fan of the neon pink pieces, they just look jarring and too technical in comparison to the other colors and the look of the designs. I liked the 40's element of the rouging on several pieces

Thakoon- Zara is going to have a field day with this.

Theory- We've seen massive pilgrim belts the past couple seasons and finally I like it.

Tory Burch- background was killing me, very early 90's elementary school photo... stark contrast to the minimalist prints she was showcasing. Bauhaus and Tory Burch are not names that would normally belong in a sentence together but it is interesting to see her take on it.

Vera Wang- Vera is feeling black and Marni-esque this season I see. Cocoon shapes, boiled wool, fur leather and tweed all worked well for a chic fall feeling. The heavily beaded and sequence pieces were also quite nice and brought life to the otherwise clean looks. I also enjoyed the flower print that was used. Several looks left the model looking like she was playing dress-up though. The flowers on the shoes were distractin

Versace- A very young collection. A mix of bubble gum preppy school girl and rock & roll. While it was missing the usual baroque approach I still found it to read as very Versace.

Zac Posen- It's almost too bad that Zac Posen was born when he was and not 50 years earlier. The pieces he shows every year are something else but they are more like a costume than anything. I am sure there are numerous women who would die to wear his clothes but where to and when? He states several looks are for the MET which is apt but also would only work for the MET

Zero + Marina Cornejo- What I'd expect from Marina Corneja clean simple yet interesting and modern pieces. Monochrome colors and Japanese cuts.

Pre-Fall 14 part 1 by Mike Tyle

While it was hard to just pick one accompanying image of my favorite look for each designer (and believe me if wasn't easy!) take a look at my pinterest for more in-depth picks.

Let me know what your opinion on the collections were as well, i'd love to hear it!

3.1 Philip Lim- Love. Anything metallic can do no wrong in my book. I thought the concept of young girls in Berlin was perfect and I can totally see it! Very cool wearable clothes with a twist, gave the looks more of an elevated feeling form something you can buy just anywhere. Perfect for the boutiques of Mitte & Prenzlauer Berg. The pops of metallic were set off well amongst the more somber tones.

Akris- Bonnie & Clyde. This is a theme that comes up every couple years and is reinterpreted, this time around Akris take on the famously infamous Bonnie is really spot on yet well adjusted to the woman of today. Incorporating colors and cuts of yesteryear with luxury fabrics of today's standards. The beret's though... I get it's "Bonnie" but every look? I am sure she took her's off sometimes too.

Alexander Wang- Decomposing as theme. Leave it to Wang to get me excited about clothing that is already falling apart. But first can we talk about the riding shoes? Love! Was giving me F/W 09 Prada waders vibes... I thought the paler was on point and as always his use of technical mixed with high-end fabrics always leaves me wanting more

Altuzarra- A lot of cute easy basics in warm fall colors. Snuggly fitted blazers and lot's of high slits on pencil skirts. I liked the throw-back plaids and wide stripes.

Band of Outsiders- Really liked the plaid choices and directions. Not sure how I feel about the pants fastening at the bottom. All in all a seemingly young collection. Happy to see a jumpsuit or two in there as well

BCBG Max Azria- A very different direction or at least very different looking from what I excepted to see. As much as I get and like the BCBG girl we are used to this was a pleasant surprise. The layering and bias cut styles were still there but the fabrics and colors were much heavier looking and the over al effect was a much more modern feel.

Bottega Veneta- As obsessed as I was last season this time around was no different. I really enjoyed the graphic black and white pieces at the beginning and while the splashes of color brought life to the garments I believe that the entire line could have been built out of black and white and done just as fantastically well.

Burberry Prorsum- I always love the pre-Fall and Resort look books from Burberry. immaculately styled, great pieces and colors. It seems a nice mix of high & low presenting graphics T's with jacquard pants and skirts. Leather and fur trimmed coats with paisley print floor length dresses. This time there while there were several complete looks I loved there were also some things I was questioning. The lace pieces for example... you know which I am talking about.

Calvin Klein- I just did not like this collection which is very unlike me because usually C.K. collection is perfection of modernity. I like the soft and cozy idea but the basic melange and clogs were not cute. Also the huge seasonal button was a bit awkward. I liked the blood red look at the end and the last metallic piece was very nice. I wish both of those looks were more expounded upon.

Chanel- It's like Ralf Lauren and Isabela Marant had a love child... but you know when 2 really good looking people have a baby and it cancels each other out and they make a hideous child. This is it. Usually I hate that Chanel has 95 styles but in this case it helped because I was able to find about 10 good looks in between. And by that I mean realistically maybe 20 water downed looks could be worn and everything else was just no.

Diane von Furstenberg- Poppy commercial prints DVF is known for. I am sure buyers are having a field day.

Donna Karan- I think I have a problem with berets. They are heinous. Aside fomr that it was a collection full of easy pieces: the shirt, the skirt. the belt. You can't go wrong there

DKNY- black and white transition into baby blue and peach. Not such a fan of the blunt graphics but liked the mix of sportswear and minimal design.

Erdem- Brocade, glitter and lace. All things Erdem. The intrersting thing about Erdem is he can easily be placed in the same realm as OdlR or Herrera in that he makes clothes that older women love but at the same time young girls look just as nice in them. That is a fine line not many people can balance. Unlike his counterparts I enjoy the freshness Erdem brings every season while sticking to what he knows.

Gucci- A bit Burberry meets 70's feeling. Gucci shows how high-end meets street wear while it looked VERY casual the fabrics used were money! Shift dresses and jeans... something I wasn't expecting but somehow also perfect.

Helmut Lang- Black, white and modern all over.

Paris Fashion Week S/S14 by Mike Tyle

Acne: Nautical is always a timeless theme.

Ann Demeulemeester: a great fresh look to a designer who knows her stuff. I really loved seeing the great red color as well as the graphic designs and stripes paired with billowy pants and shrunken jackets. Of course shoes and accessories were perfect as to be expected.

Anthony Vaccarello: Denim was a take on Marant, the peak-a-boo straps Donatella, the pointy skirts reminded me of loin clothes but the mesh and military buttons were appreciated. I find his clothing a bit tired and trying really hard to be sexy but just looking like bluntly cut miniskirts and not necessarily items that will transfer well in real life.

Akris: Oh, Akris too commercial for you own good. I mean, well yes probably really good for you since that makes money but showing a gazillion colorways on the runway and missing the newness that one expects from high-end I was bored after only a couple looks.

Alexander McQueen: I have to say I really enjoyed this season! I am always impressed with the amount of work that goes into making manly of these only for runway theatrical McQueen items every season but yet this time around it somehow rang more true to the McQueen aesthetic as opposed to past collections which were missing something. Who knew that cavalierly and African tribal themes could match up so well.

Balenciaga: not my favorite from Wang. I thought his first collection really came out surprising me but this time it just didn't capture what I was looking for in the Balenciaga aesthetic..

Balmain: Rousteing loves himself some 80's Versace. I have to say I am happy to see a more pared down look less jewel encrusted heavy 80's Dynasty, but... I guess in a way it's still a homage to the house itself perhaps under OdlR but when I think what Balmain could show I think about Balmain the man and the founding of the house. But also times change and if this is selling then make them euros! But then again the company make over 50% cash in licensing... but then again what house doesn't anymore.

Carven: Not feeling it. I love Carven, I love cammo, I love 90's, I love structural garments. But not here. The mix was just too much or too literal... There may have been pieces I can get behind but the overall look was dated looking and not the quirky cute Carven I've grown to love. The flower appliqués on the shoulders were sweet touches but the chunky boarder belt around the waist was too prominent. The full on flower looks however were a  bit 80's drapes and I'm not here for that. The chokers and platforms were giving me Clueless vibes, which after this season are giving me more NYFW vibes than anything else.

Céline: The first look made me look twice. This is Céline? But then as one gradually sees look by look it all comes together and yes it is Céline. At least this is Celine's modern minimalist take on 90's patterns and colorways with an East-London and slight African influence. I want to go on the adventure these clothes are destined for!

Chloé: I like the idea of easy dressing for summer. Light, airy fabrics . But handkerchief hems are the devil in my book. Not only dated but just ugly and never look right in real life. Sadly several styles had them and hopefully the buyers feel the same way and the patterns get fixed before production because otherwise...

Chanel: 90 looks... enough said. Ain't nobody got time for that. I mean I GET that it is Chanel but... editing can be your friend.

Dior: I want to like the whole new wave feeling and I understand Raf has a new customer that isn't necessarily the Jil Sander consumer but his take on classic styles is missing something. Maybe it is just that there is too much happening... I mean with 76 looks there are a lot of stories going on. I liked the colors and cut outs mixed with asymmetrical pleating (Hello Issey Miyake, seems this season has been good for you). Less a fan of the wording and the flowers we have seen a couple seasons now. The badges were a bit lame as well. Ending with the metallic styles I though was cool though.

Dries van Noten: Great fabric mix as per usual. Full of pleating and ruffles with a gold splash for color added to the burgundy, blacks and off white. Liked the shoes and accessories naturally.

Giambattista Valli: Pretty. Valli always has something for a girls girl but this time a turn in a different direction. I look forward to seeing how this evolves.

Givenchy: I really like the direction this collection went in this season. Even though there have been many clean looks throughout the past this time a cozy feeling was there that isn't something I would put with Givenchy. Maybe it was the copious amount of draped jersey or the charcoal and tobacco orange, leather and sequence which went beautifully with the Madame Grès technique mixed with African influences ( a reoccurring theme this Paris season it seams) and Japanese kimono silhouettes. A worldly collection that didn't seem overkill.

Haider Ackermann: For being a traditional Ackermann filled elongated draped menswear collection I found it also to be very feminine. Gold accents, see-through tulle and silk and many dresses under suit jackets and over metallic pants. Don't mind if I do.

Hermes: Chic simplicity, leathers and scarf prints. All things Hermes has perfected. This season showed us set again what Hermes is capable of and how even with more conservative restriction there is so much in design one can do. I wasn't as much of a fan of the tropical prints, at least not as a boot, but I enjoyed many of the looks fine details that are there without being garish but instead bring the garment to a higher level.

Hussein Chalayan: Not many people can live up to the designs of Chalayan. Every seasons leaves something to inspire to. The few pastel tropical prints were giving me Golden Girl vibes which isn't always a bad thing.

Isabel Marant: On a high with the pending H&M collection it was also important to make sure that the two collections didn't cross paths while still staying true to the casual Parisian chic Marant aesthetic which girls all over love. I wasn't in love with this collection as much as I had excpeted. It seemed nice... very much in the lines of Zadig et Voltaire in terms of styling but less rock and more Victorian in contruction (i.e. jacekts and blouses) with girly vibes seen with plenty of tulle layers and clean white looks matched with leather pants

John Galliano: Technical fabrics and rather clean looks not what I was excpetcting but pleasantly surprised. Cool cut outs. Yet also something very old school about it.

Kenzo: at first I was meh and then I was ohh and by the end I loved it all... for the most part. the shoes were a bit strange, the front bed looked robotic and I am sure trip-worthy plus that metal cage in the back better be sturdy! Now on to the looks... The first few screamed Acne to me and I felt there was a general high amount of Proenza Schouler redux going on. But I am not hating on it. I loved the prints but then again I wouldn't expect anything less from Kenzo. The wavy hemlines of the shirts were quite cool and I can assure you NOT easy to get in production. But in general with all things Kenzo more power to you I love you like always.

Lanvin: Yup. Awesome. I mean it's shiny. What's not to love. Also I was getting a Golden Girls vibe which again.. what's not to love. I wasn't feeling the carryover of the big jewlery and graphic T's, but if it's selling work it!

Louis Vuitton: Really Marc you wait this long to show denim? As with any Marc Jacobs collection I get it and love it but then at the same time I am abhorredI saw several looks that were reminiscent to past seasons with a lot of show girl thrown on top. Which in a way is quite appropriate for a lasting impression on the brand. The runway itself was spectacular and a great retrospective to many past creations.

Maison Martin Margiela: Margiela doesn't need gimmicks what they do making you think differently about basics is enough of a look on it's own. That is why I found this collection difficult. As much as I loved the tailoring which I expect from MMM there were looks that just didn't mesh in the opposites attract Margiela way. Maybe after the 2nd go through it will hit me and love it all...

Ok, did a re-look and yes it is awesome!

Miu Miu: Coats! Muccia has done it again, this seasons take on the ever loved swinging 60's vibe Miu Miu is known for had many bold colors be it bright red or sea foam green. From school girl to beaded show girl, Prada showed extremes. Also in fabric mix with wool A-line skirts and fur and vinyl mixed coats. Patent leather purses and of course socks with chunks heels.

Moncler Gamme Rouge: Valli redux. At first I thought this is the perfect mix between showing off what the designer is known for and mixing it with the tech take of Moncler. Unlike his past Moncler shows this was strictly runway and well if you know what Moncler runways have been in the past no more word necessary. By the end though I thought the line was a little too reminiscent of his own work. It reminded me of the M.J./L.V. issue.

Nina Ricci: What one would except from Nina Ricci. Feminine, delicate, lace and lingerie styles. Satin, flowers and gauzy off white, grey and bright blues sometimes clashed but when the theme is pretty it all seems to work in the end. I have to say this is one of the few lines where I can see the costumer not buying just the fragrances and accessories but actual garments as well.

Rick Owens: What fashion shows are all about. Surprising the audience and if anyone did that this season it was Rick Owens. Not only did the awesome step dancers do their thing but it was perfectly fitting with the hard edge of Owens leather he is famous for. If there is a woman I want to see wearing these clothes it's one who has power.

Click here for the video that is what awesomeness is all about.

Rochas: Rochas much like Marni is always one to show a timelessness eclectic women in a  way not many designers can get away with. This time was no different mixing 50's housewife with carnival beads and satin, velvet, lame fabrics for quite the experience. If there is anyone deserving of a Schiaparelli title look no further.

Roland Mouret: Very 80's synth feeling. bright colors and color blocking. Sadly seemed a bit cheap but funny enough that probably sells well! The silhouette he's known for was still there and I am sure many a pop-star and actress will get use out of these dresses on the red carpet but compared to several other Paris shows this year this didn't match up to me.

Sacai: I love mesh, what's not to love about it! But on the other hand argyle is... ugh, I just can't. Needless to say I was back and forth with this collection. The primary color range and sporty materials mixed with more evening wear looks were fun. I liked the fabric mix and experimentation which with Sacai is always enjoyable. The jacket silhouettes were really nice and worked well with the menswear style shirting

Saint Laurent: High fashion hipster. As always with (Y)SL under Slimane, I take it with a grain of salt. After reading the reviews and first go through I though pricey F21 now I look at it and see the fabrics and techniques and think Zara will have a field day but the outcome will never be the real thing. I think this new direction for the label obviously has that rocker vibe Heidi is known for and apparently is selling $$$. It might not be Yves at the fore front but then again look at what Balmain once was compared to now.

Sonia Rykiel: Ok I know I said I hate argyle 2 reviews above... well I take it back. But only in this instance. Maybe because it isn't your typical argyle. Mix that with metallic threaded knitwear and fur and you have me. Some of the pastel colorways I could have done without though. I think sometimes it takes going back to the beginning to make something fresh and new again. Here we see the Parisian chic of the 70s Rykiel revived.

Stella McCartney: I know everyone loved the lace dresses but they just weren't doing it for me, the other looks however I really enjoyed, very 90's contemporary. Shoes and sunglasses were on point, but that is to be expected with Stella.

Undercover: Not a fan of the wording pieces but mostly because I think Viktor and Rolf did it better way back when. The wigs reminded me of YSL F/W08 and the cuts of the asymmetrical styles were a bit Givenchy. But I think the neo-punk thing works well. The LED light thing was a bit gimmicky as well, I just can't see it translating well to everyday...

Valentino: I was getting some D&G vibes with the reoccurring theme. Ok not that bad... but there is some overlap but with 70-some styles but that it to be expected... There is though an evolution of the Valentino woman happening only it's far from the days of Valentino and his vibrant red hit the runway. Now a more conservative toned down but still beautiful woman being represented. Very renaissance era in regard to materials and silhouette but with native embroidery, bright colors and hippie leather fringe and astrology gold jewelry thrown in for good measure.

Milan Fashion Week S/S14 by Mike Tyle

Alberta Ferretti: I get that the theme was South America but man did the people at Ferretti turn basket weaving Peru into the girliest thing ever! Flowers and lace and ruffles, oh my. Aside from that it was giving me D&G vibes. Take that as you will.

Aquilano.Rimondi: Just when you think tropical flowers, gag me. These guys show a whole new way to go about it and make it awesome and new. Throw in some neoprene THE fabric of the past couple seasons add some jewel tones and voila beauty! Possibly one of the best shows of the season.

Armani: Only 57 looks. I say that in genuine surprise since last season had oh... 85? Finally 28 less colorways. Albeit meticulously made, still has that 1980's power suit silhouettes, that all look the same. I'm just telling it how I see it. 

Bottega Veneta: Oh shit, that was some good stuff. This is how you do pleats and not in a hot mess 80's prom dress way. The best of SS14. I always feel like people don't talk about the genius that is Tomas Maier, like they do Muccia, he always brings it every season in a paired down high luxury classic yet cutting edge way. This season his fabric choices were on point especially the quality seen in the raw edge and feather looks that seemed to melt into the dresses. Don't even get me started on those Japanese-esque pleating techniques, ugh the craftsmanship is killing me. The somber spring colors also were spot on in my opinion especially for the customer and price level. These are items that are unique and timeless. Shut it down! 

Bluemarine: High-end Bebe.

Dolce & Gabbana: Been there done that 5 seasons going now... I would have fine but those gold coins ruined it for me oh and those laughable pillar shoes.

Etro: Someone could have edited this to 40 looks and that still would have been more than enough paisely. I really liked the other prints very retro and nice. I thought the shoes didn't really match the collection, much too flashy where as I was getting more of an explorer, hand made embroidery, fabric mix indian vibe from the rest of the outfits.

Fausto Puglisi: Very Italina. Sexy, summer, fun. I really was surprised by the tropical palm tree motif throughout the show was not overwheling even though it was in a majority of looks and in different techniques. Though I didn't really like the rounded skirts I as I felt they awkard looking and really won't transfer well off a runway, it looked like they took a sphere and chopped it in half. The leather details however were nice and added a sexy juxtapostion to the easy beach theme. hair and make-up were spot on.

Fendi: I feel like Fendi is often looked over also I feel like Karl Lagerfeld is only looked at as the face of Chanel. It's too bad becuase in my opinon Fendi is always much stronger and frankly more interesting than Chanel. I understand it is a different customer, much like his own lines are but still Fendi is where it is at. Usually bright and geometic with intersting fabric mixes this season was no different.

Ferragamo: The pinstripe peices remindiend me of Stella McCartney only I liked hers better... maybe it was becuase of the colorway. I was feeling the 90's minimalism. At first I wasn't too into the snakeskin but I thought it really added a nice contrast to the soft feimine looks and brought life to the otherwise drab palette. This season showed as well how good Ferragamo is at making a trench coat they really rivals Burberry in technique. The skirts and leather peices were very nice as well as the small lingerie detials hinted with the laced up jackets.

Gucci: About as casual as Gucci has ever been but minus sweat pants and add some mesh to the eqaution. Still sexy and perfect for a nightclub mixed with art nevau detailing. Ok, basically those 2 sentences sound redicoulous but it's true. Jeweltones and black coloration helped to mix both themes of port and classic illustration. Some of the looks near the end were a bit tacky and heavy on the shimmer.

Jil Sander: Sad. Mostly becuase I have always held the brand to such a high expectation and it's not to say that this season was bad, I found that the magic was still in the details. The problem is Jil Sander always offered something quite and clean and which unexpecdedly gave so much with using so little and now it seems that the look has grown more and more with many other designer taking on the Jil esthetic and making it their own. One thing for sure those 90's belts with the sliver trim were a bit tacky.

Marco de Vincenzo: A young designer with only a few seasons under his belt but showing stronger collections each season. This time around he still brought a  feminine, italian apporach to luxury. Many 50's style dresses with fabric mix ranging from dangling bits to sewn eyeltes and ombre beading (my fave), I was also really intrgued by his knit pieces (look 31 & 32 I am takling about you) and hope he delves deeper into knitwear next season. A clean strong pallete with metallics and grey undertones brought the line together nicely.

Marni: A different direction for a Marni collection. The pants were cool but sadly not everyone has a model leg length. The accessories were still typical Marni quirky, chunky, atypical and intersting.

MaxMara: The minimalist in me wanted to love all of it but the pantyhose ruined it for me. The handkerchiefs were very Rochas. I really loved the details- fabric, cut, color... but I found the backside of that last look was just... nope.

Missoni: A very un-Missoni collection! Usually when one thinks of Missoni they already know what to expect and I am sure that will never change but for the main womens collection this season they surprised the consumer with something different. Still knit but not as busy and zig-zaggy as usual (it was still there, don't worry!) instead cleaner pallette with warm hues of purple, pink, orange... added to motifs of birds and waves at the beginning which later turned to jutting rock structures. The dresses taking on a more blankety sari look when it came to the drapping often including printed knit structures. Unlike when Wang or DNKY produced items with their name written all over it I found the subtly and artful way the brand was shown on tops and purses cut out in a rubber print or leather looked right. The peices with open knit strands sometimes beaded near the end really took the collection up a notch whereas the crazy ponytails where distracting.

No. 21:  I know it has been around for a few seasons but I have to admit it is always one of my favorite shows each season. The looks are always on point and really nice. This season the clothes started out dark and sexy with sheer looks that were seen throughout and then turned as well to lighter white jewel embellished shirts and tropical print, which I was surprised by but also really liked how they spun it and used the leaves to create embroidered cut outs and printed pieces. A different take on a trend we have been seeing sporadically season.

Prada: The reason why Prada will always be in my top 5 is the clothes really are something that makes you think twice. Usually upon first inspection they can be garish and not commercial but when you really inspect the garments it all makes sense. And again I am in love. This season was no different at first I was not impressed but I let it all sink in and as always STUNNED. The use of  jewel encrusted trompe l'oeil bra tops, multi-color furs, printed women and sporty knit elements just goes to show that Muccia is her own person and creates trends how she see's fit,

Pucci: Pucci meets hip-hop meets Africa. You have to leave it to Dundas for designing a collection that as always is sexy, sporty and full of jet-setting glamour. The heavyweight belts were a bit distracting as well as Julia Nobis and Hanelore, not that they aren't great models they just don't fit the Pucci aesthetic for me. Instead I want to see Victoria Secret type girls not filler. As with almost all high-end runway fashion brands I often wonder how the sell through is. Pucci has the brand history a company needs and are well known for their prints which I am sure still sell well. The runway looks always exude glamour the Pucci print money allows them to be known for for but I sadly can't imagine the majority of the runway collection are money makers since the styles are for a very specific model-esque elite. Plus they aren't well known for perfumes or bags which is how most brands seem to be funded nowadays. Regardless I loved the no make-up and tussled hair look. And another positive note as always Pucci makes a sexy shoe and this season was no different.

Roberto Cavalli: One thing can be said about Cavalli. He is consistent. I can't lie, usually something like Cavalli would go against all that I hold true to my design aesthetic. With most any other designer I would hate on such garish, flamboyant styles but for some reason I can't help but always get into it some Cavalli bling. This season like any other you know to expect sexy, boho-chic, animal print, embellishment, tassels, lace... you get the picture. This season was all about shine. As always you really need to get up close and personal with the garments to see the details and how intricate the pieces are. From afar it was a bit of a textured Tinman effect near the beginning of the show and then a lacy sea foam patchwork hippy section followed by a sharp turn into black and white. Those Muumuus however are something I can not get behind.

Versace: Leave it to Donatella and her hard rocker ways. This season had Versace going back to their rocker roots complete with concert T's, denim and chains. I wasn't feeling this collection as much as I have past seasons (S11, F010, F09, S09 I am looking at you) but as someone who is not the target market I can still see many pieces that the Versace girl and drag queen will love. Hello those shoes! I did like the use of the medusa head on the bags and when mixed with chains on several of the dresses. Also, Lindsey Wixson's hair in it's current state is not Versace worthy.

London Fashion Week S/S14 by Mike Tyle

Antonia Berardi: Sexy, sporty colors. Leopard (always in trend I suppose...) and crocodile prints. See through panels and color blocking. I'm not mad. Mullet hems though are still happening and not only here Fashion Weeks seem to not be able to shake it.

Burberry Prorsum: Pretty, pastel and reminiscent of the 50's. 3 things girls like. The plastic flowers looked cheap and I think the theme didn't need the extra boost from them. Otherwise this was an overtly feminine collection and the antithesis to the bright metallic looks we saw last S/S. I thought the coats looked really comfy and the striped/polka dot pieces were a nice contrast. The bejeweled editorial fodder was a nice way to end. The mens looks didn't really scream newness, mostly meh.

Christopher Kane: Spreading that Kering money all the way through 45 looks, Kane has yet again used unconventional ideas and materials to give us another science lesson. Highlights for me include the fabric that reminded me of metallic fiberglass insulation. I really liked the broaches and the little wires trims wrapped around the shoes, holding together the dresses and blazers. The sweaters with the cutout wording reminded me of Carven and the first several looks were just ok and the last couple a little too literal. Regardless making the other boys on the playground that is LFW jealous.

Erdem: This is not your normal Erdem show but a good step in a new direction. I really enjoyed the white and black contrast with the sublte flower motifs. A somber mood for Spring but it inspired me as opposed to boring me with the usual still always well done flower prints and lace that Erdem is known for. More in this new direction please! Praying the buyers come through and don't scare him back into a hole.

J.W.Anderson: He's always been experimental this time it seems to have become even more so than in past seasons, especially when it comes to his use of materials. I've been reading a lot of flack for his maybe too literal inspiration from other avant-garde designers but haters are gonna hate not many can get away with mixing such designs and keep it fresh and understandable enough for a commercialism price point, but then again leave that to pre-fall, resort and collaborations. It will be interesting to see if LVMH backing comes through, it could lead to some really great things.

Jonathan Saunders: A very early 90's look and also a departure from the work Saunders has done in the past. While it keeps with his bright color pallet mixed with deep jewel tones which are signature Saunders I found this collection to not be my favorite of his. Sorry. Either way he's still hot.

L'Wren Scott: Cultural appropriation much? Ain't nobody got time for that. The shoes were intense and the embroidery was well done though.

Marios Schwab: I little bit all over the place. There were a lot of nice pieces as per usual but mostly disconnect.

Mary Katrantzou: The silhouettes and construction of her clothes are top-notch and while the girl knows her way around a computer and a dizzying photo print. I want to see something new! Shoes are not doing it for me and I know that she has to have more up her sleeve. If she was able to do what she has done thus far then I know there is more to see. I will say while the shoe looks didn't do anything for me and the flowers were pretty but a bit been there done that I did find the cuts to be new and interesting. I just hope next seasons she wows us all again!

Matthew Williamson: clothing for the woman unafraid of color. I always enjoy seeing anything Matthew Williamson, it's hard not to be happy with all the bright colors and ethnic prints and embroideries. This season showed a more grown up look which is fine but sadly I have to say I just didn't like this collection. It looked dated. maybe it was the flowers and the jank dragonfly prints or the mumu's...

Michael van der Ham: I love a good fabric and pattern mix in this case those are two things that Michael van der Ham can do right. At first I wasn't sure this collection could hold up to the past seasons which I really liked but felt that much like with Mary the newness was missing. I think like many of his looks the whole and the parts are all worth taking in. His dresses have a different look from afar and when you take a look at the details you see a whole new dress.

Mulberry: In the past I've given a lot of side eye at Mulberry not because it was cray but mostly just found it well tailored and but meh... this season was a different story. I loved the Marimekko looking prints, leather, bold stripes shoes, bags...and naturally the bull dog. Basically if Tory Burch took this and mixed it with Michael van der Ham I might have liked her line this season, yes that was a read. Then again she runs a billion dollar company, guess I am the loser in that equation.

Paul Smith: I am thankful that Paul Smith makes menswear because I don't know where else I would get colorful Saville Row mixed with quirky details in one place. WIth that being said if I were a chic fun lesbian I would be set in clothing department! This season was typical Paul Smith bright colors, menswear inspired, mismatched buttons... the only things I was not into was the over exaggerated lapels and photo prints.

Peter Pilotto: Peter Pilotto the man of the hour and the latest to come out with a Target collab. Can not wait!! This season he is really giving Mary K a run for her money in the prints department, he seemed to be using his tricks yet again with mixing and matching prints and fabrics but as always it worked well and still seemed fresh and new. I liked the construction and even the mullet hemlines.

Preen: I want to say I've seen this already as the collection was typical Preen with the mix of flower photo prints and colorful blocks but I don't care I'm always for Preen. But I'm not here for that version of a betty rubble skirt that they kept sending out. On a side note look 23 I see you in your Spice Girls/ S Club 7 get up. Someone find some platform tennis shoes stat instead of those plastic kitten heels! The buckle trims used were interesting and gave a more industrial feeling to the looks but was also giving me some watered down C. Kane vibes.

Richard Nicoll: Very clean pallet. black, white and silver. herringbone, mod stripes and ankle boots. I thought it was easily wearable and nothing too crazy or over the top. Nice.

Roksanda Ilincic: Same ol' crazy Roksanda at it again! I was surprised how into it I was, the neoprene jackets and the 50's feel worked well. I liked the pops of color which make a Roksanda collection every time. As far as a 90's trend can be seen I am surprised this was the first time I've really noticed the pants with skirt trend, this needs to be brought back.

Simone Rocha: Art school mixed with money. Really interesting details, feminine but deconstructed. It reminded me of Comme des Garçons meets 80's madonna, work bitch!

Tom Ford: Those are some sexy clothes. The Tom of yesteryear is back! My only questions is who besides Beyonce and Rihanna will be wearing it?

Topshop Unique: 2nd half was better than the first, but I always have a hard time with Unique for Topshop. Possibly because it's Topshop and we all know the quality there is lagging. I understand this is a bit higher price point but still... aside from that I found the collection ok. I am not sure about the green twill coats if it were a lighter color I think I would have been more behind it. The beach theme with the 90's hair was easy for S/S. The Moroccan tile print was a nice link to hold it all together, plus you can never go wrong with Moroccan tiles.

NYFW S/S14 by Mike Tyle

3.1 Phillip Lim: Really great. The theme reminded me a lot of minerals, which duh, but still I think it really shows that there is so much beauty in the world and it can be interpreted in so many ways. The silhouettes were modern yet wearable and I loved the embroidered marble effect on many tops and dresses. Not such a fan of the bags but I enjoyed the Marni-eque shoes with the crystal like embellishments must have been a bitch walking on that rock salt (which looked awesome btw).

Alexander Wang: A.wang commenters come in 2 types the fans and the haters. I get the aesthetic and I appreciate it, he has really done something that not often can happen. Every season his popularity increases and it is safe to say his name is a brand and thus his collection became based on his name. Literally and figuratively. From afar pieces looked to have cool laser cut leather or stamped prints but when seen close up it's all a play on his name. Tongue and cheek or just money in the pocket? I personally do not like my clothing to have branding, for the most part I prefer to wear something because I know what it is therefore I don't need to shout it. But then again I am not the customer he is trying to attract this time he is grabbing at the new client he doesn't yet have. The one who loves a logo but may have been "afraid" for lack of a better term of the modern silhouettes, fabrics and often colorless designs but slap a name on it and they understand it. I do however like the Japanese school girl style skirts and the rubberized shoes.

Altuzarra: I feel like you can't go wrong with Greek isles for spring as a theme or really Greek isles anytime. A strong collection with gypsy element from the past still showing up. Continuing the trend of the mens shirt and calf length skirt. That make-up however was not a good look.

BCBG: A darker look for spring with a nod to menswear in several pieces, BCBG knows what they do best and maintained their youthful punches of bright colored flowers and bold cuts. I enjoyed the pleated side panels on several of the dresses and the shoes and bags will sell well I am sure.

Band of Outsiders: A strong collection with loose, flowing silhouettes. I really liked how the mix between the 90's minimal trend had a romantic feel in the patterns and colors used. There was also a utilitarian feel about the trekking sandals and laced poncho over shirts à la look 14 & 34 for example. 

Calvin Klein: As usual I love anything Costa has touched; this collection is no different. Each season CK is modernity. Structure is at the forefront and this season his architectural side still is showing great stride. Interesting mix of materials and surprising use of color and if anyone knows Calvin Klein runway the surprising mix wasn't just in the clothes. Finally some black models were used. Albeit 4 out of a sea of vanilla but I will take what I can get! Don't even get me started on the fringe dresses as the end I can't wait to see those in editorial use. There were only a few looks I was unsure about namely the colored yarns in #16 (maybe it was the mix with tweed that turned me off) and #18 (the sweater with colored naps is nothing new  and if the model looks fat wearing it...).

Carolina Herrera: same old ladies who lunch as at OdlR every year.

Creatures of the Wind: Still with the quirk they are known for only now a bit more grown-up and edited. I enjoy a good 60's vibe and the bright colors worked well with the value of interesting fabrics which add a new dimension to the silhouettes. No offense to gold but the only looks that really threw me off were the gold lamé skirt with shredded flowers and the gold gaucho pants in basketball shorts fabric...

DKNY: I consider Donna Karan's younger line to be more of a straight to market venture as opposed to runway material. While the collection did showcase neoprene and mesh for the mass market, I considered it a way for the buyer who knows ok this is a "new" enough look for the end consumer to feel high-fashion but won't be too jilted by something to high-end. I wasn't too keen to seeing all the branding but then again it's DNKY. The platform/heeled high-tops on the other hand. No thank you. I did however like the neoprene heels and several of the cleaner looks. Even the mens items I found quite wearable. Sporty casual.

Derek Lam: I'm all for gingham in summer or really anytime and I love the size and colors chosen by Lam for this season. Besides that I found the collection in whole to be a very clean contemporary image and I thought it was well done, turbans and caplets aside. I really enjoyed the fabric from looks 16-18. Look 25 on Hanne Gaby was throwing me some FW07 Balenciaga realness.

Diane von Furstenburg: Over at DvF they have a formula and it works. The dresses always looks great but... this time what was missing was a theme. Unless the theme was a pretty dress, which in that case good job. Minus that cork print which didn't photograph well and I can't see it looking real even in real life. Oh, and python print. Again? It may be a basic over at DvF but I'm over it since 2 seasons ago. The models did look fresh and good job at starting that show out with Erin and ended with Naomi. I mean it wouldn't be a DvF show without a slew of money girls in the line up.

Donna Karan: I feel terrible but I often think of Chico's when I think Donna Karan. Maybe it's because they both have a penchant for bias cut, african print, chunky wood/metal jewelry and grey tones? This is starting to sound like I know a lot more about Chico's than I do... Anyways let's start with the hats. They were really distracting. Also there were enough shirt tents for Ina Garten to be set for a whole season. The mahogany colors and the western elements were very Arizona, which is still better than pastel New Mexico. Oh and can Hilary Rhoda lay off on the steroids! Those muscles are intense.

 Helmut Lang: I am all about a crop top and I found it alive at Helmut Lang. I enjoyed the surprising amount of bags, the straight boxy silhouettes as well. The clothing seemed easy to wear and the colors kept for a clean and crisp palette that only slightly deviated from black and white with a couple looks with a pop of fuchsia. The heels however weren't doing it for me.

J. Mendel: Traditionally feminine, this time with a touch of something out of the arts & crafts movement of the late 1800's- early 1900's. I found it in the use of some of the fabrics, jacquard flower prints, wicker-like woven set ins... but mixed in a modern with fur and python geometrically placed among the cut of the silhouettes in pastel and bright colors. Don't get me wrong it sounds odd and maybe I am the only one who thought of that reference but I think it really worked well. Different than what we have been seeing the majority of the week and also something a bit out of the ordinary for his style, I think the chance paid off. I wish it were a bit more edited or looks laid out a bit differently as a couple styles didn't seem to fit in.

Jason Wu: Not your average Wu collection. Yes, very feminine. Yes, luxurious fabrics. Yes, attention to details. Yes, perfect casting as usual. But what seemed different is how light and easy it all seemed. It's a stark departure from the hard sexy woman he usually portrays. A very toned down color palette of neutrals worked well with the airy and beaded garments. The sexy side was still there shown in the peek-a-boo lingerie elements.

Lacoste:  I always look forward to Lacoste. I really think the direction Felipe Oliveira Baptista is taking the brand is not only right but should be watched closely. He has reinvigorated a heritage line built on basics and shown them in a modern clean way that still nods at the past but moves forward using interesting technical fabrics and cuts. This season the looks were very light and airy framed in tonal & contrast, for a sports brand it can't get more summer than that. Reminded me a bit of Prada, just enough to elevate the collection without taking the real idea of sportswear out of it.

Marc by Marc Jacobs: Quirky and cute what I expect from Marc by Marc. I was getting some Miu Miu vibes from those silk and feather looks at the end which I can't hate. Overall the H.S./vintage/menswear/prints are common themes that never go out of style. Easily wearable and fun; I can't wait to get my hands on all of it!

Marc Jacobs: What you get if the Titanic shipwrecked in Hawai'i. I will say the fabric. construction and detailing did look really well done and not easy. I'm just going to ignore those wigs...

Marchesa: Very feminine and romantic as usual. Lace, flowers, feathers, beading...  after seeing close ups it all just seemed too much, from afar there were red carpet worthy pieces but up close it was almost too intricate in a way it aged the looks a bit. And the hair looked like a wannabe Nina Ricci FW07, which can't be beat.

Michael Kors: Much like Tommy Hilfiger he has that runway down to a science and it wouldn't be NYFW without either of them. Casting was spot on and can Karmen Pedaru not be more of a perfect fit as face of the brand This was american sportswear as it is known with a 70's twist. The menswear this season though need to gtfo. But damn did the models look fresh and alive.

Narcisco Rodriguez: Oh, that's how you make modernism feminine! I always love his collections but this one was especially nice. I can't even think where to start pointing out what I liked about it instead just check it out and dress accordingly next spring.

Ohne Titel: Cool use of knitwear. I liked how it had a futurist 80's robotic feeling mixed with pastel girly-ness. The painted hair was a bit overkill though.

Oscar de la Renta: I can't hate on a ball gown. I mean I think everyone who wants to be a fashion designer, it's because of ball gowns. When it comes to that who else can do it better than OdlR? I mean I don't know who is wearing them besides a movie actress/politician/vogue editorial. But I am sure if I saw an old women on the street wearing it I would DIE.

Peter Som: I am a sucker for neoprene and a good shoe, both of which were done right! I found the tightest looks of the show in the middle where I really got the feeling of the collection, looks 13-29, first half wasn't doing it for me either the silhouettes were odd or fabric mix of the jackets and look 34... not cute.

Proenza Schouler: Umm, I loved it. I mean I always love it. There are not many designers that can excite me like Proenza Schouler, every seasons is consistent. While they have a distinct look it is interesting to see how it has changed throughout the years. This season was no exception the fabrics and finishes were perfect. The silhouettes- very Proenza Shouler, boxy and yet feminine. The accessories on point. The bags were great the tassels seem to be a trend showing up both at several other runways this season and here woven into the bags with metal closures. The shoes alone were orgasmic. I may not be a girl but if I were then those shoes would be mine! The weaving was really interesting and the wooden soles worked perfectly. I also really enjoyed the coats and pants that were sprayed showing the seams, somehow a bit of a Margiela moment. Last but not least the metallic bottoms and halter tops were interesting and brought an average skirt up a notch.

Prabal Gurung: His take on the 50's meets 2013. It seems this seson he took cue from Prada and Raf at Dior. Which I must say I am not as much of a fan of Raf's Dior but I think here it's been well interpreted. A couple of the jackets hems I found difficult (look 8 giving me Pyongyang fashion week vibes...) but I really enjoyed the color range, femininity and mix between silk and plastic fabrics. The presentation itself being a highlight, more interesting than an average walk. Sadly I am sure some looks will be altered for retail, but at least we have seen the intention on the catwalk.

Rag & Bone: 2013 take on 90's modern minimalism à la Prada. Complete with spaghetti straps, clog like platforms and iridescent materials. All in all I found it to be a cohesive collection from the design duo and I quite liked it. My only quip is the flower embroidered see through material, which is very 90's but to literal for my tastes, I was hoping to forget that look was in at one point and time.

Rodarte: What the... I just can't. What happened? Let's think back to a time called Spring 2008. This was when Rodarte really broke and they had something to say, the memento was pushed towards FW08 which bridged both collections together and was everything. Those shoes are still being talked about! Since then they made steady interesting collections with a theme seen in a different way (i.e.- japanese horror flicks or mexican nightwalker) every seasons worked somehow until about SS11 where it got a bit shaky with the printed van Gogh paintings. But at least they had the fabric to back it up. Maybe it didn't translate in image form but in real life you can understand it. Then came the next couple of season which had some high low effects but FW13 happened and well no comment. I think the fact that I've gotten this far without talking about what went down on that runway this season is enough of an issue. Let's just hope these girls look back to beginning again next season because besides the silk plaid shirts and the tweed blazers and a couple pair of shoes...woof. I mean that bias cut zebra print dress is $6,000. Just no, that is wrong. $20 for that at Rue21 is too much. Also, whoever styled this gangsta rockabilly prostitute from the 80's needs to be heavily side-eyed.

The Row: Is it sad that the first thing I noticed was the use of black models? I mean, don't get me wrong the clothes aside I commend them for thinking out of the box in this day and age. I just hope it's not a one off seasonal thing. More diversity more the better! Anyways onto the clothes... as always the twins paid close attention to detail and are known for being meticulous when it comes to fabric choices. Hence the price tag reaching Balmain level. This season the look still had the Row feeling i.e. long draping tunic styles and layers of fabric but it had a bit of a hippie-vibe also. The veils threw me off but maybe rich hippy getting married in Marrakesh was the theme? Also the background was fab. the white linens draped on the walls made it seem so ethereal and cozy.

Ralph Lauren: While it is a different direction from what RL normally puts out (i.e.- tweed) the mod theme looked more Cher from Clueless than swinging 60's. Not a fan of the prints either.

Reed Krakoff: Very nice, I really like how feminine his take on modernity has. Usually I find it is quite stark in past season. This time his use of silk and light creme colors really brought the look. I didn't love the seam tension, I thought it cheapened a couple of the looks... And I thought I would be over florecent chartreuse as a pop but I actually liked it on the shoes, bag was another story... but the bags in general looked really interesting!

Sophie Theallet: Not my favorite collection from Sophie, I found a disconnect between the first half being very feminine with thistle prints that would fit in well at Anthro and the silk gowns she puts down the runway I always look forward to seeing. Both were nice but seemed to be 2 very different end consumers with no middle ground.

Suno: Sticking to their roots in african prints they played with colors, textures and silhouettes. Cute, summery and commercial. The zebra print was a bit Anthropologie and the last 3 looks very the Row.

Thakoon: Not feeling it. I get it, 90's are back. Minimalism, spaghetti straps, lace, silk... and pleather. First off the shoes were whack, I mean had it been Chanel I wouldn't have thought anything of it. Why, because Chanel did similar boots in tweed in FW06 and while they were questionable then it's still Chanel, appreciate but side-eye at the same time. Which reminds me pearl strap purse? I digress... Don't even get me started on the ill-fitted art school fabric mix pleated top (look 6, 22, 31) and the random 2 pleather looks or that Swarvski dangling beads/ neck straps (look 15 and 36). Ok, enough hating. I did like the laser cut lace in the denim fabric and a couple shift dresses. 

Theyskens' Theory: Black for summer! And it works. Very 90's, very Belgian. Both done right in this case. I don't know if this is his best work for Theory, it lacked the detail, not in technique but something was missing... The leather jacket (look 10) & skirt (24) were my least favorite, sorry about it. But the shirt dresses I thought were a nice departure and good direction for something other than the chiffon dresses which might not be as forgiving.

Thom Browne: No doubt about it Browne has been known for years in menswear and has been growing in popularity for a while now. It's hard not to see the red, white and blue tab stick out somewhere and not think of him. Then there is the coat Michelle Obama wore to the inauguration... with that being said something else he has become known for are his shows. Pushing boundaries and coming across as an Americana take on an epic McQueen runway. This season he really showed off his flair for complicated techniques and interesting details with a theme as bougie Elizabethan joker has got people talking.

Tommy Hilfiger: I feel like Hilfiger gets a bad rap in the US, where here in Europe this shit is gold. They have really perfected their branding and image. The new store by my apartment is really nice and I am not even the customer they are trying to get. This season they took beachwear to the next level. Instead of breezy summer dresses we got color block neoprene, 2 things I am obsessed with. Sometimes it seemed a bit excessive, but then again they had 48 looks. It's pushing Chanel/Armani editing level issue. Also the team jerseys and that crocheted business were not needed. Who do they think they are Isabel Marant?

Tory Burch: Zoey Deschanel meets 60's housewife with a penchant for gardening and money to spend.

Vera Wang: Sporty and sexy not what one would expect from a designer who is known more for her darker, subtle looks or demure wedding dresses. I was 50/50 this season I liked the colors, cuts and flowyness of the collection however I didn't like the scrunchies on the arm or the cut up tufts that were sewn to the shoulder or going down the back. It somehow really distracted me from the outfits and cheapened it a bit. It seems every couple of seasons (SS12, some of FW12) Vera tries to making a sporty more upbeat collection, which I am all for, but I often wonder how well the sell through for those lines are.

Victoria Beckham: Who would have thought 5 years ago that Victoria Beckham would be the Victoria Beckham that we see now. She has a distinct direction with a very minimal concise aesthetic which evolves each season. I am always looking forward to see the looks. Well tailored pieces and nice materials finish off yet another great collection. This time less constricting dresses and now a bit more fun, much like her diffusion line (just as well done) Victoria, Victoria Beckham. I can totally picture her and now many others wearing the mens shirt and A-line skirt trend the next coming months. Can't wait!

Zac Posen: The flowers in the hair was pushing the point a bit, but in general there was nothing else new here. As always a Madame Grès approach and a vintage cut heavy looking dress.

Zero + Marina Cornejo: I'd say it's one of the strongest collections she's shown, usually I find her collection in the same way I do other brand a bit art school (Ohne Titel anyone?). This time it reminded me a mix of Damir Doma, a bit of the Row and overall something different from the greasy haired 90's rehash that has become this seasons NYFW go to. I liked the pixilated photo prints, it broke up the beige and black looks and while it was the opposite of the dessert wanderer style it still worked. Also anything shiny I am automatically attracted to so the metal pieces were cool. The purple fabric looked a bit cheap and I get the idea of fabric mix but the neoprene didn't fit well with the linen.