Pre-Fall 14 part 3 / by Mike Tyle

Soon enough will be time to work on Menswear FW14 and Couture S14!

As always check out my fave picks in Pinterest and leave me a comment on your thoughts on the collections as well!

Acne- Not many clothiers can recreate classic pieces in such quirky cool ways. leave it to the Swedish to do just that. This time featuring large proportions, shearling, neoprene, leather and silk. Hard to go wrong with that combination even better is the colorways full of watery teal, deep brown and creamy beige.

Alberta Ferretti-  A nautical theme with rich colors and textures. Lot's of flashes of bold hues mixed with deep neutrals... Much like the ocean. Beautiful luxury fabrics such as silk and fur embellished with gold wire embroideries for a naval effect. There was something different to this collection then what I have seen in the past from Ferretti and I like the direction it is going in.

Alexander McQueen- I was quite excited to see a designer play with tailors tack! I mean we see it often in the form of Margiela but in a whole different context. While the McQueen of Sarah Burton is no A.McQ to say the least I do think the more commercial direction she is leading the house in isn't a bad thing and the imagination has not been lost. Morphing of the menswear to more feminine evening wear starting with wool jackets and ending in rose embroidered taffeta dresses was the correct juxtaposition to keep the world of McQueen as we once knew it.

Armani- As much as I want to like Armani I just am not a fan. I will say this time wasn't a snooze-fest. Regardless I always bow at the fab. advertisements each season so Giorgio you still win. I was impressed with the fabrics used and the silhouettes while I find the designs always skew to a more 80's boxy influence I somehow got it this time. The color story was also on point. Some of the styling however caused me to side-eye what is happening over there in Milan.

Balenciaga- A strong collection for Wang full of technical fabrics and black & white. Both of which are becoming more and more synonymous as the typical Balenciaga x A.Wang mash-up. Not that I am complaining, it really seems to work well, creating interest and added value. You can also tell he hits those archives hard which can also be a good thing because with Balenciaga there is a long history of great work at the house which should be used and reinterpreted. Playing on volume and fabric mix has me hoping that the FW14 will be just as dramatic.

Balmain- I really liked it. Which is more or less a surprise as I have come to expect Balmain to bring Dynasty every season. Ok that was still there but mixed with safari which is something I always love. The colors were clean and just right. Khaki, hunter, navy with animal print thrown in... The fabrics were what one would expect for the highest price points imaginable. Lot's of leather, angora, metal embellished pieces. I hope this direction continues and am sure the customer base will grow as this incorporates a woman that isn't into clothes that are pure 80's sex.

Carven- I am always a Carven supporter. I love that the girl looks are growing up with the woman who wears them while still keeping the school girl charm. This season the collar really got my attention. Not only was it big but had just the right curve... Ok I am letting my designer brain get to me. Aside from that the berry tones and clean tartan checks used in mix with the bomber jackets, fisherman knits and twine closures added to the Carven look. I wasn't such a fan of the bib look that showed up in #22 but all in all the season was another winner for me.

Chloé- Pleasantly surprised. I understand Hannah MacGibbon hasn't been at the helm for a while but I am still always thankful that we have moved past those frumpy beige days. I really liked this season a lot better than last which was a bit too gypsy/handkerchief hem heavy for me. 

Christopher Kane- Bold colors, full skirts, fur, python print... it all worked really nicely. The collection had a classic approach but with nontraditional pieces that added something new to the mix, namely the wide curved straps that held it together or the chunky zippers. Then came the molecular science side of Kane which we have had glimpses of in the past and what seemed to have worked well. This time around I wasn't feeling it and with Men's FW14 carrying the theme further. I hope I won't get to sick of seeing the 3-D imagery as I am sure it will be heavily used in editorials the next few months.

Creatures of the Wind- Nice. Compared to past CotW collections it seemed more toned down but at the same time still quirky. A bit mod with a hint of hippie. Something perfect for an Anthro/Free People gal with even more dinero to spend on leather, silk and cashmere.

Dior- Wow, where has this been for all the other Dior by Raf shows... Finally the flowers are at a minimum, the Belgian look is showing up (where else would you see a New Look made out of a a MA jacket?) The fur coats with a shock of electric blue really drew my attention. I think the use of Dior in a new way this season really made me take notice and hope that this direction continues. The subtle use of the Dior look mixed with new ideas such as the take on leopard print, the he metallic checks or how the silk pieces meshed against tweed looks or the leather jacket.

Derek Lam- I loved the fabrics used chunky fur, mohair, velvet, bonded jersey, origami cuts.. but the cropped bell bottoms on the other hand... all in all it really goes to show the use of quality fabrics always deliver quite an impact and makes the price point justifiable.

Fausto Puglisi- Still with those damn rounded circle skirts... Loud, graphic and very Italian. Block contrast primary colors gave it a mod edge which I can always appreciate.

Fendi- Graphic, color blocked and furry as per usual. Karl Lagerfeld... Shade, no shade but if no one knew that you designed both Chanel and Fendi no body would believe it. As always I love Fendi and this season was no different. A nod to menswear this pre-fall with many modern layering pieces

Giambattista Valli- Brocade, fur, florals and leopard. Sounds familiar. While I found the direction for the pictures to mimc past lookbooks it didn't bother me. The camera angles gave movement to the garments as well as more interesting views of the styles.

Givenchy- Tribal meets tech. Modern with Bauhaus and Klee/Klimt influences yet full of fur, still with African influence and sequence reminiscent of SS14.

J.W. Anderson- Seemed a bit more wearable than previous seasons and def. more than the menswear. I appreciate the ascetic that Anderson tries with his clothing but at the same time it is obvious he is heavily influenced by Rei. The colors this season reminded me of Celine SS14 women's which was a hit so werk! 

Jonathan Saunders- Really impressed. I mean I am always impressed by Saunders but something about this collection drew me in. Very wearable and casual but with the right fabrics to make it still dressy. A definite menswear feel in a great color range of olive, salmon, black, white, ruby...