Runway

Top 4 Trends: Mens SS17 by Mike Tyle

Yes, the runway shows were July of 2016 and yes I already did a report or 2 on my favorite shows... ok 4 posts... but this one is not about what is coming but what has hit the shop floors now so by April or July you don't look like a loser. And since it's 60 degrees out today (ok, tomorrow we have a winter storm warning of 8 in. of snow...) I want to embrace Spring!

Top 4 menswear themes:

This season, it's all about the stripes! Floral made his entrance in men's wardrobe and good old basics as denim and sport are still very effective.

Stripes

Thin stripes, Brenton stripes, pinstripes. Get 'em all!

Floral

Because.

Sport

Athleisure takes a turn in a more slick retro direction -aka- get a zip-up and a windbreaker.

Denim

I know big shocker! But unlike the denim you already own the new direction is patchwork and acid wash driven.

Top 4 menswear pieces:

Trench coats, raincoats, wide leg trousers and bombers are the top four menswear piece trends this season. Showcased in a huge amount of the shows, menswear becomes casual, elegant and sporty.

Bomber

This menswear staple is still going strong. I mean everyone always looks cool in one.

Wide Leg

This could go real wrong real fast proceed with caution. A silky or suit fabric in a tailored look but no JNCO style!

Trench Coat

Not just for flashers and Inspector Gadget! make sure you get one that hits you correctly at the knee. 

Rain Coat

Don't get caught in the springtime rain without one.

Menswear SS17- Part 3 by Mike Tyle

Versace

Palette cleanser, much more clean, modern, airy draped over jewel tones in deep teal blue, jade and a royal purple. Active wear mixed with casual, soft and loose blazer and shorts. Socks & sandals. Technical fabrics with silk. A subtle mixture of luxury and masculinity without the jarring use of in your face logos Versace is known for.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

White Mountaineering

The prints were serving up more intricate Tiger of Sweden, the camo however was ok but not wow. It was either too small or the colors were not my thing. I did like that the traditional Japanese silhouettes were included and made new. The criss-cross espadrilles need to be on me now! However what really sold the collection was the Adidas collaboration. Move over Y-3 there is a new Japanese brand to bring it! The black/white was a stark contrast to the first half of the collection but works well for the collaboration and the retro-sport Adidas looks are also perfect.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Wooyoungmi

With the same feelings I have for Marni I also have always been a huge fan of the Korean brand and that hasn't changed this season! Their take on Sol LeWitt wall art works perfectly with the garments creating new ginghams and oversize checks. The fabric bases also made sense. Laxer cut trench coats, silk pajama style shorts and shirts, oversize bottoms where the draping allows the pattern to move, dense knit sweaters allowing for structured looks. Basically put it all on me!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Special shout out to:

MSGM- Made me like actually argyle for the first time in my life.

N.Hollywood- I'm a sucker for neoprene, I can't help myself.

Rag & Bone- Very American silhouettes, workwear meets minimalist streetwear, clean vibrant primary colors.

Rick Owens- Giving us some color and a new way of draping to his ever so billowy styles.

The Kooples- New more laid back casual direction, boxier fits. more color and Japanese indigo heavy with a take on America approach.

Menswear SS17- Part 2 by Mike Tyle

As not to overwhelm here is a continuation from my last post featuring another set of reviews to my fave Menswear designers this season.

Dries Van Noten

Every season I am astounded. His collections bring sophistication to the masses. Always bringing fans on a journey to another time and place. Normally I am not a print kinda guy but when it comes out of het Modepaleis I know it will be something I need in my closet. This season is no different the collection moves effortlessly from cream, soft whites and punches of metallic silver intermixing with macrame and patch work reminiscent of the arts & crafts movement of the 70's intermixing. Then medieval tapestry prints and camouflage. Ending in loose draped indigo fabric looks. Wow. Basically,  Scotch & Soda will be knocking this off in...

 

 

 

 

DSquared2

I found the Ziggy platforms to be a bit distracting but I know the Caden twins always have something tongue-and-cheek to offset their designs but also show that gender-fuck can be mainstream! DSquared2 always love a good theme and I am right there with them! They can make anything be over the top yet still masculine enough that a fashionable guy would want in their closet regardless, ok maybe the sequined camo parka is pushing it... This SS the theme was skinhead which has been done by numerous designers over the season and I've always been a fan of the outcome. This time around Dean & Dan added a bit of an overtly homo-dandy twist to make it their own.

 

 

 

 

Gucci

The imagination of Alessandro Michele is unique in that he can take so many different ideas jumble them up and create something new out of it. Always exciting and intriguing this season is no different. There are so many elements at play you don't know where to look first!  Now to say fishermen, Dynasty China & Donald Duck don't mix hasn't seen the Edwardian preppy dandy boys of Gucci under Alessandro!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Maison Margiela

Quintessential imperfectly perfect Margiela delivered as always. Why do something dramatic when you have a wining combo every time? Paper fabrics mix with fluid fabrics, unfinished garments and tailors tacking galore left me feeling happy.

Niel Barrett

Sports references were still heavily referenced, and do well for the brand. Instead of the army green, black & white palette we have become used to has now branched out into more 70's brown tones with red-orange and yellow highlights used in diagonal inserts and modern graphics. Also something we haven't seen much in past seasons is his use of denim. I've always been a fan of his work but I like this toned down grown-up direction more than the use of broken-up statues artworks of past seasons. I especially love some of the leather pieces with symmetrical inserts on the sleeves and breasts.

Prada

Nylon. The fabric that started Prada. Season after season reinventing the label only this time using the founding fabric to create yet another utilitarian look. This Prada man is ready to wander. Weather it be trekking across countries or from work to the gym the look is apparent. Athleisure is king and peoples attitudes towards relaxed dressing has long been the norm. So why not pair breathable nylon with a suit coat, leggings, socks & sandals. Bright colors, weather maps and some cute conversational prints added for good measure. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Raf Simons

In collaboration with the Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation images adorn each outfit with the over all look of each model sent out as an homage to the great photographer. Whether a still life, Patti Smith or a semi-hard dick with a cock ring the pictures framed, printed, cut & sewn to the items brought to life the works of a great photographer and melded perfectly with the oversize garments and added another layer to the thinking man's wardrobe.

Menswear SS17- Part 1 by Mike Tyle

As a designer & stylist I am always looking for inspiration. New silhouettes, colors, ways of combining looks... needless to say I always pay very close attention to the runways.

While there are always certain designers that I look to every season with anticipation there are also seasons that can be a let down and all I can think is...

But I digress... here are my top SS17 shows that had me wanting more.

 

Alexander McQueen

Always a brand that really scours the archives to evolve. This season the contrast highlights of a McQueen look were seen in sharp tailoring while styled with sneakers for a contemporary feel. Paisley brocade, military silhouettes, vintage postcard travel motifs and punk-meets-India inspired jewelry. Serving up some Dries van Noten vibes and I am here for it!

Ami

Ami can be quite simple and give off APC basic vibes at times. But this season brought me back to what I love about the brand: The Parisian way of life. The bobo slightly oversized suit worn in a casual just-woke-up-threw-this-on/je-ne-sais-quoi attitude that only the French can pull off. All combined make for a great look but even alone they are stand out while still being traditional pieces for the every-man.

Ann Demeulemeester

Sébastien Meunier’s take on Demeulemeester has developed from a place of love. He has made his mark over the past 3 years at helm by bringing newness to the collection while providing a consistent "red line" that stays true to the brand however I haven't found it fully encompass a collection until this season. SS17 intermixed with women's resort has brought romance to the runway through the inaugural monochromatic black with highlights of white and with flashes of red seen in the beaded tags "I am red with love". Ribbons, chainlettes and paint dipped feathers hung from the loose often striped or open knit garments accompanied by embroidered bird cummerbunds. I am always a fan and this time around I found the soft poetic feel of this collection to be on point and a highlight of the past several seasons.

 

Balenciaga

Ok Vetements is an enigma. Sometimes I am like YAAAAS and other times I am like W T F. Now that Demna has take the helm at Balenciaga we have seen how he has flipped the women's line from the monochrome Wang direction to ...well an elevated Vetements without budget constraints. One can already see a dramatic push in the first menswear collection. Boxy fits and elongated shoulders juxtaposed on either large or shrunken silhouettes. While the extremity of the collection might not be wearable for all his pushing the boundaries will help to open the tightly constructed world of menswear and that in itself is a reason to be excited!

 

 

 

Coach 1941

I am living for this! Since F/W14 when Coach restructured they have come a long way. From the get go I found the rebranding a great idea. No longer the monogram purse mall magnet the clothing has a voice of it's own. Each season since has been a fast progression. While they have learned what works and what doesn't for the customer the designs still push for the boundaries and the themes are obvious but subtle. Taking everyday classic pieces and give them life without screaming straight kitsch. This seasons 50's rockabilly-lite meets cowboy feeling has me hooked! I am in love with all the leather jackets! The use of Gary Basemans artistic flair really is the perfect touch and I know I will be on the look out for several pieces for when I join a fashion forward 50's gang.

 

 

 

 

 

Diesel Black Gold

Ok, I wasn't expecting this either. I think what got me was the denim mixed COS & Carhartt together et voilà! I am a sucker for clean lines, boxy shapes, fabric mixes and workwear details... oh,  lets not forget about a gladiator sandal. While some of it was a bit OTT there are several pieces (hello denim jinbei) I will be looking for in the come Jan when it hits stores.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dior Homme

Like every season I flock to Kris van Assche's Dior Homme this season got me yet again, shocker! The punk & new wave references combined with sporting elements were spot on. A few items veered a bit too Hot Topic for my taste but in general the mesh and harnesswork made up for the Juggalo pants.

Alexander Wang X H&M by Mike Tyle

The collaboration of the season. It's been talked about for months and finally the moment is here!

Well not THE moment... everyone will have to wait until Nov. 6th to line up and buy the goods. But until then we've had sneak peaks and leaked looks. This past week the whole collection was unveiled and now the runway show which occurred last night shows it in all it's Wang-ness.

As one could only expect from Wang it is a collection full of militant fashionable sporty looks: second skin, neoprene and mesh all mixed with leather and bonded details. Of course the WANG logo incorporated throughout. Good news is while T and H&m probably already shared factories now we can get the looks at a more affordable price.

Here are a few of my favorite pieces from the collaboration:

It's Gemma, bitch! by Mike Tyle

Gemma Ward opening & Lara Stone closing. Only Prada could make this happen and it did.

Sasha in the middle would have been a welcome surprise but I have to say I literally almost fell out of my chair when I saw Gemma walk out. It's been since fucking 2008! I don't blame her for leaving and being hesitant to coming back but I welcome her presence and look forward to more.

Top Resort '15 review by Mike Tyle

Can we first talk about how many lookbooks Bo Don got this season... was not expecting it but get that money girl!

Before I get on to my (possibly tipsy) Twitter style reviews of the shows... Here you can see all the looks that I liked the most.

Now... onto some shade/no shade.

3.1 Philip Lim: Sixities theme. Safe. Nice colorways. Those pants in look 23... questionable.

Acne: Oversize and quirky. check and check. Both things Acne knows how to do best. Wasn't feeling the bamboo closures.

Akris: Distracting Greek(?) street background. A lot of chic yet German looking casual wear.

Alexander McQueen: Look #3 gave me SS15 menswear vibes, which is a nice pairing. Seemed more McQ to me in that it was pretty wearable for a normal McQueen look book. I'm not a big flower fan near the end... but loving all of the outerwear made up for it!

Alexander Wang: Look #1 was a lot of look to start off with. I do like the idea of incorporating workwear elements which Wang is always keen to do. Wasn't my fave from him but he's busy.

Altuzarra: As always anything Joseph Altuzarra does I am a fan of. The man knows how to make an A-line skirt and baggy blouse work. His corporate chic meets boho-gypsy designs get me every time.

BCBG Max Azria: Anytime there is a windblown look happening it gets a pass... in this case the whole collection was done on a beach. Naturally I had a lot of favorites... call me a basic mall bitch if you will.

Balenciaga: Still working the colorblind look. Luckily there are some sharp silhouettes to match. Wang had me until the asymmetrical hems came out. But again... he's busy between H&M, T and sharing the fabrics with his eponymous line.

Balmain: Binx does Dynasty with a dash of Kim K. Bebe will be all over this.

Bottega Veneta: Doing what a Resort collection was created to do... sell. I really enjoyed the batik direction the 2nd half went into.

Burberry Prorsum: I always look forward to the Burberry look books! They are well photographed and the clothes tell a story. As always everything was nice but I felt the story being told was, well, nothing new.  I mean, ugh, dip-dye? Still going strong I see. The fabrics and looks seemed just like remixes to familiar styles... trench-update aside.

Calvin Klein Collection: I love me some CK collection. That first coat on Ewers was EVERYTHING. Always innovative fabrics and thankfully finally back in a modern clean streamlined silhouette. I am still having nightmares about Pre-Fall 14...

Carven: Sporty yet girly with innovative fabric mix come to me! Gone is the dirndl-esque girl of yesteryear, far from a hater here, but a new more confident woman has emerged. I could have done without the logo but it was still more tastefully done than Wang SS14.

Chanel: I want to say it was bait racist... but I am sure the middle east will eat this collection up and Chanel will have made their quarter profit on the first day it hits stores.

Christopher Kane: I am on the fence. I think a lot can be done with the styles as separates... I really liked all the stories told and while all different went well together. I would personally nix the cheap looking flower pins/buttons. But Kane always needs a little something quirky to show off.

DKNY: I get it. Baseball caps are a look. But 27 of them?

Derek Lam: It worked for Philip Lim. It seems the 60's are an inspiration all around. Keep at it because it works well.

DVF: I can't. Wendy Williams can wear it well but I didn't find anything new here.

Diesel Black Gold: Saint Laurent meets Sandro.

DSquared2: Fierce. Leave it to the twins to bring to life another campy theme. As always 60 & 70's were prevalent and as always I wanted more.

Erdem: The things you can do with lace, flowers and ruffles. In this case it wasn't the usual Erdem affair but one breaking away from the frilly older women and into a more trend-driven playful girl. Gave me F13 Erdem vibes and I am happy to see a revival.

Fendi: Mesh, pop graphics and of course a bit of fur. Binx rocked these Eurocentric looks and the Logo splashed across the items surprisingly added to the fun.

Gucci: following a 60's Mod inspired F14 comes a resort of the same ilk. The only issue I find is in the fact that many looks could also have come out of a J.Crew catalog.

Herve Leger: Pure Sex. Balmain meets Versace and a high-end better manufactured Bebe was born.

Hugo Boss: I am obsessed with Jason Wu's take on the Hugo Boss woman. Clean, chic, modern still very Hugo Boss but with a twist. I look forward to seeing what the next seasons will provide.

Jason Wu: Neutral palette and clean looks. It was feeling a bit in the direction of Boss wich is a good thing in this case.

Jil Sander: I don't know a time when I haven't found something to love about a Jil Sander collection (the same goes for the Navy line) this case it was no different, bell shapes and monochrome colors. Looks like the new Head of Design is a better fit than expected.

Jonathan Saunders: More of this please. Great individual pieces in color block and interesting prints. Basically what one should expect from a Jonathan Saunders collection. Gold, beige, sliver, bright blues... stripes and lamé fabrics gave the 70's feel Saunders is known for.

Josh Groot: Not yet a household name and came a bit out of left fieId but the clean simple modern lines, black and while minimalism got to me.... basically I was LOVING everything.

Kenzo: Was having some F09/S13 LV feelings. Maybe not so much the bunny and mod themes but never the less some of the fabrics and silhouettes went there. As always I expect Leon & Lim to know the direction they want to take us in and know it well. This season was just as bright and graphic as ever. Yet again cementing their way as fan faves.

Lanvin: Nice Lanvin fodder. But I'm mostly here for Jamie Bochert. Throw in some thin scarves in place of heavy jewelry Lanvin is known for and you have Lanvin collection as expected full of high end fabrics and silhouettes to match. 

Louis Vuitton: F14 rehash with more embellishments and spring colors. Enjoyed the innovative fabrics.

MSGM: Keep doing what you are doing. It's working. Graphic, girly yet modern. 

Margiela: Simple- I. Want. Everything.

Marc Jacobs: Mess. Next. 

Marc by Marc: Better than the main line. Also prob more sellable than Bartley & Hilliers first soldier themed (yet v. cool) showing.

Marni: This and very season of Marni need much more publicity. For such a storied fashion house which a specific aesthetic it seriously grows and gets better every fucking season. WORK!!!

Mary Katrantzou: YES. I am so glad she isn't a one trick pony. I am always ALWAYS wondering what she will pull next. She knows what works and how to push it in the next direction. As far as Resort goes this could easily have been a full FW/SS styled collection. 

Miu Miu: Daphnie from Scooby Doo want's her clothes back. If it is one thing that Miu Miu knows how to do it's bringing 60's back every season and making it just as new and cool as always.

Mugler: David Korma for Mugler just makes sense.

Nina Ricci: The only difference between any Nina Ricci collection is basically that since S10 it hasn't been designed by Theyskens. Otherwise just as French and feminine as always.

No. 21: Yet another diffusion line getting it better than the main brand. This seasons No. 21 brought the Italian flair and newness I always expect from them. Wish I could see every girl wearing these clothes.

Peter Pilotto: As always there is A LOT happening. The photos are jarring but as all Pilotto designs look wonderful in real life.

Prabal Gurung: Bold color blocking and graphic paint strokes, but not in the vain of Celine. Always a fan just next time no Lurex please.

Preen: I really don't know which line to review since they are both separate but equal in my eyes. Both showed sport directions with bold colors and fabric mix with the Preen stipe in place. Biggest qualm for me was the cheap looking denim print. Never again. I beg of the two of you.

Proenza Schouler: Bam! Proenza graphics and sharp silhouettes one expects; while theres nothing new  it's all perfect.

Public School; More and more the design duo's line is being talked about and this collection of evolved basics explains why.

Rag & Bone: Effortlessly cool. From the background to the styles themselves. Basically this is how casual should be done. Point blank chic.

Roksanda Ilincic: Work those color block statements! A very impressive collection this season. Zglad to see Roksanda growing into a well-rounded yet distinct look.

Stella McCartney: Fun & serious. 2 things the Stella customer looks for. I personally liked the first 10 looks (strong silhouettes) and the last 10 looks (full on bold stripes and paisley).

Suno: wasn't feeling it these season.

Thakoon: What can I say I always find Thakoon enjoyable but I also think it's always at risk of becoming a Zara collection that costs more and has better fabrics.

The Row: I don't want to say they are taking notes from Margiela but the fabrics the design aesthetic and the silhouette are putting the Twins at the same level.

Thom Browne: Crazy show is crazy. The aftermath that will actually make it to stores will be crave-worthy. Who knew prep and florals could work. I mean it's overloaded to the max but it's Thom Browne. Somehow the end product always makes sense.

Tory Burch: The things this woman could make me like... In general I am not a fan but when I see the look books and catwalk shows every season it make me understand why she is banking so much. Think Anthro and Banana Republic had a baby.

Valentino: Unlike when Chanel does 90 looks for a resort collection I am ALWAYS excited to go through Valentino's creations. I could have done without the butterfly cammo they are still trying to make happen but everything else was perfection. What other brand can meld the medieval looks they churn out every seasons with 60's style mod dresses?! I especially loved the crazy block graphics and of course the leather laser cut lace. Which is saying a lot since not many people besides Prada F08 can make me feel that way about lace.

Vionnet: Dragonfly print was a cool idea.

LFW by Mike Tyle

I love London Fashion Week. A great refreshing way to start to a month celebrating a growing men's

What better a place then a city known for pushing boundaries in fashion and trying something new. In menswear I find it especially important to try and create something that, albeit sometimes a difficult sell, really helps to usher in a new direction for the coming seasons and allowing for male style to really break out.

As a menswear designer I am constantly looking for new inspiration both for design as well as to cultivate my own look.

Follow my Pinterest board to see what I am loving so far: Menswear SS15

Pre-Fall 14 part 4 by Mike Tyle

With this 3rd & 4th installments I again found it really difficult when choosing one of my fave looks to show (ehm Valentino...). Nevertheless there were some great Pre-Fall collections and I am excited to see how they will do in stores as well as give direction to the comming FW14 season.

Lanvin- Classic Lanvin.

Louis Vuitton- Well done considering it was made between creative directors coming and going. But there were times I felt like I was looking at 2 very different collections. The first half was very LV/artsy the 2nd half was commercial as could be. While it may have been a jarring change in scenery and style the LV women was still obvious and the fabrics and cuts proved it.

Marni- It's hard for me not to like a Marni collection. This season was no different. I loved just about every look. There isn't much to say in terms of direction. Compared to SS14 this was more in a usual Marni fashion which was not broing in the least. Still playing with oversize silhouette, great furs and wool and lovely shoes. It had a bit or a MiuMiu feeling in several looks which I a not complaining about in the least. All in all print and fabric direction were what I except them to be... great!

Margiela- It's Margiela. You never know what to expect but as always I was excited to see what the team would come up with this time reinventing everyday wardrobe pieces into something so different yet so right. A subdued palette of grey, navy and black mixed with menswear styles. Oversize was the theme this season and it worked perfectly in terms of big cardigans, men's shirts with large sleeves, folded over men's pants moving into draped shift dresses and fur. Really you can't go wrong.

Matthew Williamson- Femine and bright colors, what more can one ask for from a Matthew Williamson pre-fall collection.

MaxMara- I got major Derek Lam vibes from this collection. Very clean and modern yet something about it was tired. Maybe because it skewed a bit old? the colors? One thing for sure, like Lam, wide-leg floods are not helping anyone.

No. 21- I find No.21 to be superior to big brother Alessandro Dell’Acqua. The right amount of wear-ability but still a little something that makes the customer know that the garment is special. This season I felt though that the over-all effect was a bit too close to a high end J.Crew. Maybe it was the military colors and sequence.

Nina Ricci- Work! As always the Ricci girl is ambiguous for being both girly and flirty yet sexy and seducing. this collection was no different. Keep that money coming!

Preen- I usually love Preen. Prints, colors, silhouette always on point. While there were several looks that I really liked and I also enjoyed the deep blueish pruple and pumpkin orange colors I found the bird theme could have been done in a much less gimmicky way. Also the writing on the jackets was not cute.

Pucci- I picture the Pucci girl skiing... Pucci girls don't ski but they do go to the Alps. That is where I picture this girl suited up and printed out. Bright fuschia, teal and ethnic prints to really stand out from the snow.

Ralph Lauren- Pure American Ralph. This is one of the best collections I have seen from RL in a long time, while the Ralph Lauren girl always stays true to clean sophisticated American sportswear. This time around there were no gimmicks or obvious themes aside form unpretentiously pretentious Upper-West Side women. Clean cashmere, jersey, silk, fur in tones of grey and beige shows that you don't need much to make something perfect. Classic.

Roberto Cavalli- Exactly what one would expect from a Cavalli line. Full of metallic, beading, embroidery and most importantly animal print! Italian in every way but as quick as this could look cheap I somehow always love it. I know I don't understand it either...

Roksanda IIincic- Very grown-up compared to other collection. I don't mean to say that the prior seasons were juvenile I just feel that the collection has the clear direction I have been searching for. This season the mix of bonded wool and the felt with scultpural silhouettes in bold colors was it.

Roland Mouret- I found the photography and model designer distracting. I get the idea was to show how everyday glamorous the collection could be but sadly I was too distracted by the lighting and surroundings to notice the garments which is a pity as Mouret is known for a great clean cut and red carpet ready looks. Good thing award season is upon us and I can see the dresses soon.

The Row- Modern, classic, conventional and yet so different from anything we are seeing. The Olsens have really brought forth another great collection of everyday basics but with luxury fabrics that eschew constantly changing themes instead showing whole other thought process to the way these pieces are worn. So constrained and meticulous yet easy.

Sonia Rykiel- The clothes looked comfy but I don't know if it was the angles or the model but she looked short and frumpy in a couple shots. I really liked how the print dresses ran off at the bottom though. Really shows design in the details which is always important.

Stella McCartney- Just when you think polka dots are done.... If there is one thing the Stella girl can do it is to make a masculine style feminine and sexy. Mixing dots, herringbone and line drawn people with boxy cuts brought together the line. The shoes, as always, were perfect.

Thom Browne- A new type of camouflage and the idea of men's preppy striped ties were the direction of this season over at Browne. Naturally the color palette wasn't without the typical red, white and blue which were put to use on the zany, yet satirically challenging pieces. One thing about Thome brown is, even if it isn't your style, the work that goes into his clothes are unprecedented in the American market. Full of detail and interesting fabrics. I am always intrigued as to what he will come up with next. Pre-Fall was a bit less theatrical and more wearable than his usual runway shows but none-the-less full of really great tweed, fur, jacquard and chunky knit pieces.

Valentino- Love. Ok, get the first thing out of the way... that many look is not Pre-Fall friendly or necessary. However when you have such a strong design lead and look it is hard not to make great ideas come to life. Unlike with D&G while it may be reoccurring it is also evolving and in a direction that keeps me excited to see what will come next. Capes and animal motifs, muted tones of moss green, grown and black with a dash of feathers in the right places. The geometric mink patterned coat? I died.