Womenswear

Calvin Klein by Appointment by Mike Tyle

I have to say I am quite surprised by the addition to the label! Raf and team have enough on their plate with this umbrella of a brand to work with that adding yet another line wasn't something I saw coming. But I think it a great way to bring his past experience of couture to a label known for its minimalist sportswear regardless of how viable it will be. I mean it's not like CK is hurting for cash so they might as well bring forward a made-to-measure line that was before exclusive to red carpet starlets.

Aside from that it's interesting to see how Raf reinvents Americana in this 14 look collection, each representing a decade in American woman's fashion from the 20-00 reinvented. 

The ad images are a tongue in cheek view of what CK has to offer from it's money maker underwear to the new high-end one of a kind pieces. It also give us an idea of what to expect from the direction Raf will lead future campaigns and the clothes we will all be lining up to buy. 

Franca Sozzani by Mike Tyle

1950- 2016

With a heavy heart I learned this afternoon that Franca has passed earlier today.

Such an influential figure in fashion bringing Vogue Italia to the forefront using powerful images to portray how the global climate affects fashion and in turn effects the the world.

Here is a slideshow from some of my favorite photos which was difficult to choose from an editorial archive spanning 1988-2016. Featuring some of the amazing and striking stories that show the encompassing power and boundary pushing Franca allowed photographers to portray in her magazine.

Thank you Franca and rest in peace.

Kenzo x H&M by Mike Tyle

While we have to wait until Nov. 3rd to line up for the newest collaboration at least half the wait is over. The lookbook for the forthcoming Kenzo x H&M line came out today!

Keeping with Kenzo tradition the collection is full of color and print featuring several reincarnations of past highlights such as F16 zebra stripe & geo/flower trims. However a Kenzo staple, the tiger, has been altered for the line. The below slideshow are feature some of my must have items from the 40+ looks presented.

The images features several performers and social activist and could not be more different from the last H&M collab with Balmain. Unlike Balmain with the in your face Kardashian factor I don't think Kenzo will sell out within hours. Instead I foresee it will go more the direction of Margiela or Marni collections. Of course the line will be out the door and there will be some items gone in minutes. Don't get me wrong I am in LOVE and need several pieces ASAP but commercially it is a much more difficult for the average consumer to understand. Which means... easier for me to get ahold of!

I also find it an interesting collaboration from a selling stand point. Obviously, Kenzo has been a hyped brand ever since Humberto Leon & Carol Lim took the reigns. This will open the brand to a larger customer base. However similar to the A.Wang line, but unlike other past design collaborations, Kenzo is more of a contemporary level brand, tiered higher than "fast fashion" but lower than traditional high-end & fellow past collaborators such as Versace, Lanvin or Stella McCartney. For ex: Kenzo embroidered tiger sweater retails for $195, Balmain mohair with naval buttons is $990.

H&M Campaigns by Mike Tyle

H&M really shows what it takes to be a clothing company in 2016. Celebrating diversity & equality.

As ADweek put it: "H&M has created a feminist anthem soundtracked by a classically misogynist song, for a spot meant to redefine how you think women should look, act and think, where they stand in society..."

Spot on.

Entertaining, opinionated, off-beat and fearless. Bad-ass, independent and free-willed. Lauren Hutton, Adwoa Aboah, Hari Nef, Pum Lefebure and Jillian Hervey fronts H&M's new campaign for autumn 2016, accompanied by a new version of "She's a lady", created and performed by the duo Lion Babe.

Another remarkable H&M campaign launched last year with the same ad agency, Forsman & Bodenfors, featuring the voice-over of Iggy Pop shows how being yourself can be stylish however you see fit. But above all what really is cool is recycling items you no longer need.

Lupita by Mike Tyle

I don't mean for this blog to be a magazine post every time, but... some things just need to be mentioned.

Like God damn! 3x Vogue cover girl Lupita looks STUNNING. Everything about this is perfection. She gets better every time. Anna must really love her and honestly what isn't to love? Not only does she photograph perfectly but she is well spoken and is using her platform for good!

 

This photoshoot inside is also amazing. The clothes work great with the setting and let's be real she can wear anything you put on her.

Here are some of my fave images from the editorial shot my Testino & styles by Tonne Goodman.

HBIC by Mike Tyle

How does the saying go? Don't hate the player hate the game.

To say that Gigi has been everywhere the past year is like me saying Hi, my name is Mike. I'm gay and love mesh.

This months HB's cover has the Hadid sister looking as fab as she always does. Only this isn't just any cover it's the inaugural Age issue... I can't wait to read 21 year old Gigi's secrets to her youthful glow.

Bally Fan by Mike Tyle

Having just spent a long weekend with a good friend of mine from Switzerland, shout out to you Jeremy, I am again reminded of Bally. Looking back at the evolution of past collections Pablo Coppola has consistently gotten it right since taking the reigns with FW14.

Not only are the accessories on point but the clothing just keeps getting better! Coppola himself said "the clothes are the accessories to the accessories" which coming from a company founded in 1851 on shoes makes perfect sense. It doesn't however deter me from wanting to wear multiple looks head to toe each season.

The Swiss brand remains in a fun bright dynamic nod to mod preppy 60's/70's direction but has recently gone in a more adventurous quirky way with SS17 that has worked well for the more obvious dandy man Alessandro Michele has created at Gucci.

Menswear is a difficult business. While it may be joining womenswear in terms of churning trends there is still the big challenge of dressing the average man! But being one of the biggest names on the Swiss luxury market known for it's paired down, conservative, yet equally as complex goods has worked well for the brand.

As women's SS17 shows started up this week I will be looking out for  what Bally has in store.

Here's some of my fave look from over the years:

Raf Simons for Calvin Klein by Mike Tyle

By now this is no surprise. Starting in April the rumor mill was already rampant and by August it was confirmed.

I've waited a bit to put my thought down but personally, I am here for it! I do wish he spent more time focusing on his eponymous line... but I can't hate, get that American coin!

I think it will be great for Calvin Klein. The official word from the company: “A new brand direction will ultimately follow one creative vision across all categories of the business.” is a big deal both for Raf and CK. To have his creative focus really streamline the brand will be quite interesting to see.

But it is a lot. There are tons of sub-brands! Of course PVH (the company that owns CK among other heavy hitters like Tommy) is. A. Machine. Unlike Dior there are MANY teams and licensees that are constantly developing the lines Raf will oversee. From an outsiders perspective he likely will put his main focus on Collection, hopefully keeping chances of a burn out to a minimal (however Collection is more or less for marketing purposes) and just giving his ok on direction and finished product for the other lines..

While we all know Raf can do modern, timeless, clean and minimal. How will his image of the CK man affect the customer? What worried me is that Calvin Klein is known for machismo athleticism. Raf has, in the past, been all about waif, sexless boys. That is what intrigues me. How will he make the red line from Collection through to Underwear coherent while keeping the best-sellers unaffected.

Let's just hope he stays long enough to see how it will impact the everyday consumer!

Wolves by Mike Tyle

This is how you make Balmain not look straight off the set of Dynasty.

KANYE WEST "WOLVES" Directed by: Steven Klein Creative Director: Olivier Rousteing Concept and Creative Direction: Pascal Dangin Cast: In Alphabetical Order Alessandra Ambrosio Jordan Barrett Ysaunny Brito Dilone Jourdan Dunn Ronald Epps Jon Kortajarena Francisco Lachowski Sasha Luss Riley Montana Josephine Skriver Joan Smalls With: Maria Borges Anna Cleveland Cindy