Bottega Veneta

Top Resort '15 review by Mike Tyle

Can we first talk about how many lookbooks Bo Don got this season... was not expecting it but get that money girl!

Before I get on to my (possibly tipsy) Twitter style reviews of the shows... Here you can see all the looks that I liked the most.

Now... onto some shade/no shade.

3.1 Philip Lim: Sixities theme. Safe. Nice colorways. Those pants in look 23... questionable.

Acne: Oversize and quirky. check and check. Both things Acne knows how to do best. Wasn't feeling the bamboo closures.

Akris: Distracting Greek(?) street background. A lot of chic yet German looking casual wear.

Alexander McQueen: Look #3 gave me SS15 menswear vibes, which is a nice pairing. Seemed more McQ to me in that it was pretty wearable for a normal McQueen look book. I'm not a big flower fan near the end... but loving all of the outerwear made up for it!

Alexander Wang: Look #1 was a lot of look to start off with. I do like the idea of incorporating workwear elements which Wang is always keen to do. Wasn't my fave from him but he's busy.

Altuzarra: As always anything Joseph Altuzarra does I am a fan of. The man knows how to make an A-line skirt and baggy blouse work. His corporate chic meets boho-gypsy designs get me every time.

BCBG Max Azria: Anytime there is a windblown look happening it gets a pass... in this case the whole collection was done on a beach. Naturally I had a lot of favorites... call me a basic mall bitch if you will.

Balenciaga: Still working the colorblind look. Luckily there are some sharp silhouettes to match. Wang had me until the asymmetrical hems came out. But again... he's busy between H&M, T and sharing the fabrics with his eponymous line.

Balmain: Binx does Dynasty with a dash of Kim K. Bebe will be all over this.

Bottega Veneta: Doing what a Resort collection was created to do... sell. I really enjoyed the batik direction the 2nd half went into.

Burberry Prorsum: I always look forward to the Burberry look books! They are well photographed and the clothes tell a story. As always everything was nice but I felt the story being told was, well, nothing new.  I mean, ugh, dip-dye? Still going strong I see. The fabrics and looks seemed just like remixes to familiar styles... trench-update aside.

Calvin Klein Collection: I love me some CK collection. That first coat on Ewers was EVERYTHING. Always innovative fabrics and thankfully finally back in a modern clean streamlined silhouette. I am still having nightmares about Pre-Fall 14...

Carven: Sporty yet girly with innovative fabric mix come to me! Gone is the dirndl-esque girl of yesteryear, far from a hater here, but a new more confident woman has emerged. I could have done without the logo but it was still more tastefully done than Wang SS14.

Chanel: I want to say it was bait racist... but I am sure the middle east will eat this collection up and Chanel will have made their quarter profit on the first day it hits stores.

Christopher Kane: I am on the fence. I think a lot can be done with the styles as separates... I really liked all the stories told and while all different went well together. I would personally nix the cheap looking flower pins/buttons. But Kane always needs a little something quirky to show off.

DKNY: I get it. Baseball caps are a look. But 27 of them?

Derek Lam: It worked for Philip Lim. It seems the 60's are an inspiration all around. Keep at it because it works well.

DVF: I can't. Wendy Williams can wear it well but I didn't find anything new here.

Diesel Black Gold: Saint Laurent meets Sandro.

DSquared2: Fierce. Leave it to the twins to bring to life another campy theme. As always 60 & 70's were prevalent and as always I wanted more.

Erdem: The things you can do with lace, flowers and ruffles. In this case it wasn't the usual Erdem affair but one breaking away from the frilly older women and into a more trend-driven playful girl. Gave me F13 Erdem vibes and I am happy to see a revival.

Fendi: Mesh, pop graphics and of course a bit of fur. Binx rocked these Eurocentric looks and the Logo splashed across the items surprisingly added to the fun.

Gucci: following a 60's Mod inspired F14 comes a resort of the same ilk. The only issue I find is in the fact that many looks could also have come out of a J.Crew catalog.

Herve Leger: Pure Sex. Balmain meets Versace and a high-end better manufactured Bebe was born.

Hugo Boss: I am obsessed with Jason Wu's take on the Hugo Boss woman. Clean, chic, modern still very Hugo Boss but with a twist. I look forward to seeing what the next seasons will provide.

Jason Wu: Neutral palette and clean looks. It was feeling a bit in the direction of Boss wich is a good thing in this case.

Jil Sander: I don't know a time when I haven't found something to love about a Jil Sander collection (the same goes for the Navy line) this case it was no different, bell shapes and monochrome colors. Looks like the new Head of Design is a better fit than expected.

Jonathan Saunders: More of this please. Great individual pieces in color block and interesting prints. Basically what one should expect from a Jonathan Saunders collection. Gold, beige, sliver, bright blues... stripes and lamé fabrics gave the 70's feel Saunders is known for.

Josh Groot: Not yet a household name and came a bit out of left fieId but the clean simple modern lines, black and while minimalism got to me.... basically I was LOVING everything.

Kenzo: Was having some F09/S13 LV feelings. Maybe not so much the bunny and mod themes but never the less some of the fabrics and silhouettes went there. As always I expect Leon & Lim to know the direction they want to take us in and know it well. This season was just as bright and graphic as ever. Yet again cementing their way as fan faves.

Lanvin: Nice Lanvin fodder. But I'm mostly here for Jamie Bochert. Throw in some thin scarves in place of heavy jewelry Lanvin is known for and you have Lanvin collection as expected full of high end fabrics and silhouettes to match. 

Louis Vuitton: F14 rehash with more embellishments and spring colors. Enjoyed the innovative fabrics.

MSGM: Keep doing what you are doing. It's working. Graphic, girly yet modern. 

Margiela: Simple- I. Want. Everything.

Marc Jacobs: Mess. Next. 

Marc by Marc: Better than the main line. Also prob more sellable than Bartley & Hilliers first soldier themed (yet v. cool) showing.

Marni: This and very season of Marni need much more publicity. For such a storied fashion house which a specific aesthetic it seriously grows and gets better every fucking season. WORK!!!

Mary Katrantzou: YES. I am so glad she isn't a one trick pony. I am always ALWAYS wondering what she will pull next. She knows what works and how to push it in the next direction. As far as Resort goes this could easily have been a full FW/SS styled collection. 

Miu Miu: Daphnie from Scooby Doo want's her clothes back. If it is one thing that Miu Miu knows how to do it's bringing 60's back every season and making it just as new and cool as always.

Mugler: David Korma for Mugler just makes sense.

Nina Ricci: The only difference between any Nina Ricci collection is basically that since S10 it hasn't been designed by Theyskens. Otherwise just as French and feminine as always.

No. 21: Yet another diffusion line getting it better than the main brand. This seasons No. 21 brought the Italian flair and newness I always expect from them. Wish I could see every girl wearing these clothes.

Peter Pilotto: As always there is A LOT happening. The photos are jarring but as all Pilotto designs look wonderful in real life.

Prabal Gurung: Bold color blocking and graphic paint strokes, but not in the vain of Celine. Always a fan just next time no Lurex please.

Preen: I really don't know which line to review since they are both separate but equal in my eyes. Both showed sport directions with bold colors and fabric mix with the Preen stipe in place. Biggest qualm for me was the cheap looking denim print. Never again. I beg of the two of you.

Proenza Schouler: Bam! Proenza graphics and sharp silhouettes one expects; while theres nothing new  it's all perfect.

Public School; More and more the design duo's line is being talked about and this collection of evolved basics explains why.

Rag & Bone: Effortlessly cool. From the background to the styles themselves. Basically this is how casual should be done. Point blank chic.

Roksanda Ilincic: Work those color block statements! A very impressive collection this season. Zglad to see Roksanda growing into a well-rounded yet distinct look.

Stella McCartney: Fun & serious. 2 things the Stella customer looks for. I personally liked the first 10 looks (strong silhouettes) and the last 10 looks (full on bold stripes and paisley).

Suno: wasn't feeling it these season.

Thakoon: What can I say I always find Thakoon enjoyable but I also think it's always at risk of becoming a Zara collection that costs more and has better fabrics.

The Row: I don't want to say they are taking notes from Margiela but the fabrics the design aesthetic and the silhouette are putting the Twins at the same level.

Thom Browne: Crazy show is crazy. The aftermath that will actually make it to stores will be crave-worthy. Who knew prep and florals could work. I mean it's overloaded to the max but it's Thom Browne. Somehow the end product always makes sense.

Tory Burch: The things this woman could make me like... In general I am not a fan but when I see the look books and catwalk shows every season it make me understand why she is banking so much. Think Anthro and Banana Republic had a baby.

Valentino: Unlike when Chanel does 90 looks for a resort collection I am ALWAYS excited to go through Valentino's creations. I could have done without the butterfly cammo they are still trying to make happen but everything else was perfection. What other brand can meld the medieval looks they churn out every seasons with 60's style mod dresses?! I especially loved the crazy block graphics and of course the leather laser cut lace. Which is saying a lot since not many people besides Prada F08 can make me feel that way about lace.

Vionnet: Dragonfly print was a cool idea.

Pre-Fall 14 part 1 by Mike Tyle

While it was hard to just pick one accompanying image of my favorite look for each designer (and believe me if wasn't easy!) take a look at my pinterest for more in-depth picks.

Let me know what your opinion on the collections were as well, i'd love to hear it!

3.1 Philip Lim- Love. Anything metallic can do no wrong in my book. I thought the concept of young girls in Berlin was perfect and I can totally see it! Very cool wearable clothes with a twist, gave the looks more of an elevated feeling form something you can buy just anywhere. Perfect for the boutiques of Mitte & Prenzlauer Berg. The pops of metallic were set off well amongst the more somber tones.

Akris- Bonnie & Clyde. This is a theme that comes up every couple years and is reinterpreted, this time around Akris take on the famously infamous Bonnie is really spot on yet well adjusted to the woman of today. Incorporating colors and cuts of yesteryear with luxury fabrics of today's standards. The beret's though... I get it's "Bonnie" but every look? I am sure she took her's off sometimes too.

Alexander Wang- Decomposing as theme. Leave it to Wang to get me excited about clothing that is already falling apart. But first can we talk about the riding shoes? Love! Was giving me F/W 09 Prada waders vibes... I thought the paler was on point and as always his use of technical mixed with high-end fabrics always leaves me wanting more

Altuzarra- A lot of cute easy basics in warm fall colors. Snuggly fitted blazers and lot's of high slits on pencil skirts. I liked the throw-back plaids and wide stripes.

Band of Outsiders- Really liked the plaid choices and directions. Not sure how I feel about the pants fastening at the bottom. All in all a seemingly young collection. Happy to see a jumpsuit or two in there as well

BCBG Max Azria- A very different direction or at least very different looking from what I excepted to see. As much as I get and like the BCBG girl we are used to this was a pleasant surprise. The layering and bias cut styles were still there but the fabrics and colors were much heavier looking and the over al effect was a much more modern feel.

Bottega Veneta- As obsessed as I was last season this time around was no different. I really enjoyed the graphic black and white pieces at the beginning and while the splashes of color brought life to the garments I believe that the entire line could have been built out of black and white and done just as fantastically well.

Burberry Prorsum- I always love the pre-Fall and Resort look books from Burberry. immaculately styled, great pieces and colors. It seems a nice mix of high & low presenting graphics T's with jacquard pants and skirts. Leather and fur trimmed coats with paisley print floor length dresses. This time there while there were several complete looks I loved there were also some things I was questioning. The lace pieces for example... you know which I am talking about.

Calvin Klein- I just did not like this collection which is very unlike me because usually C.K. collection is perfection of modernity. I like the soft and cozy idea but the basic melange and clogs were not cute. Also the huge seasonal button was a bit awkward. I liked the blood red look at the end and the last metallic piece was very nice. I wish both of those looks were more expounded upon.

Chanel- It's like Ralf Lauren and Isabela Marant had a love child... but you know when 2 really good looking people have a baby and it cancels each other out and they make a hideous child. This is it. Usually I hate that Chanel has 95 styles but in this case it helped because I was able to find about 10 good looks in between. And by that I mean realistically maybe 20 water downed looks could be worn and everything else was just no.

Diane von Furstenberg- Poppy commercial prints DVF is known for. I am sure buyers are having a field day.

Donna Karan- I think I have a problem with berets. They are heinous. Aside fomr that it was a collection full of easy pieces: the shirt, the skirt. the belt. You can't go wrong there

DKNY- black and white transition into baby blue and peach. Not such a fan of the blunt graphics but liked the mix of sportswear and minimal design.

Erdem- Brocade, glitter and lace. All things Erdem. The intrersting thing about Erdem is he can easily be placed in the same realm as OdlR or Herrera in that he makes clothes that older women love but at the same time young girls look just as nice in them. That is a fine line not many people can balance. Unlike his counterparts I enjoy the freshness Erdem brings every season while sticking to what he knows.

Gucci- A bit Burberry meets 70's feeling. Gucci shows how high-end meets street wear while it looked VERY casual the fabrics used were money! Shift dresses and jeans... something I wasn't expecting but somehow also perfect.

Helmut Lang- Black, white and modern all over.

Milan Fashion Week S/S14 by Mike Tyle

Alberta Ferretti: I get that the theme was South America but man did the people at Ferretti turn basket weaving Peru into the girliest thing ever! Flowers and lace and ruffles, oh my. Aside from that it was giving me D&G vibes. Take that as you will.

Aquilano.Rimondi: Just when you think tropical flowers, gag me. These guys show a whole new way to go about it and make it awesome and new. Throw in some neoprene THE fabric of the past couple seasons add some jewel tones and voila beauty! Possibly one of the best shows of the season.

Armani: Only 57 looks. I say that in genuine surprise since last season had oh... 85? Finally 28 less colorways. Albeit meticulously made, still has that 1980's power suit silhouettes, that all look the same. I'm just telling it how I see it. 

Bottega Veneta: Oh shit, that was some good stuff. This is how you do pleats and not in a hot mess 80's prom dress way. The best of SS14. I always feel like people don't talk about the genius that is Tomas Maier, like they do Muccia, he always brings it every season in a paired down high luxury classic yet cutting edge way. This season his fabric choices were on point especially the quality seen in the raw edge and feather looks that seemed to melt into the dresses. Don't even get me started on those Japanese-esque pleating techniques, ugh the craftsmanship is killing me. The somber spring colors also were spot on in my opinion especially for the customer and price level. These are items that are unique and timeless. Shut it down! 

Bluemarine: High-end Bebe.

Dolce & Gabbana: Been there done that 5 seasons going now... I would have fine but those gold coins ruined it for me oh and those laughable pillar shoes.

Etro: Someone could have edited this to 40 looks and that still would have been more than enough paisely. I really liked the other prints very retro and nice. I thought the shoes didn't really match the collection, much too flashy where as I was getting more of an explorer, hand made embroidery, fabric mix indian vibe from the rest of the outfits.

Fausto Puglisi: Very Italina. Sexy, summer, fun. I really was surprised by the tropical palm tree motif throughout the show was not overwheling even though it was in a majority of looks and in different techniques. Though I didn't really like the rounded skirts I as I felt they awkard looking and really won't transfer well off a runway, it looked like they took a sphere and chopped it in half. The leather details however were nice and added a sexy juxtapostion to the easy beach theme. hair and make-up were spot on.

Fendi: I feel like Fendi is often looked over also I feel like Karl Lagerfeld is only looked at as the face of Chanel. It's too bad becuase in my opinon Fendi is always much stronger and frankly more interesting than Chanel. I understand it is a different customer, much like his own lines are but still Fendi is where it is at. Usually bright and geometic with intersting fabric mixes this season was no different.

Ferragamo: The pinstripe peices remindiend me of Stella McCartney only I liked hers better... maybe it was becuase of the colorway. I was feeling the 90's minimalism. At first I wasn't too into the snakeskin but I thought it really added a nice contrast to the soft feimine looks and brought life to the otherwise drab palette. This season showed as well how good Ferragamo is at making a trench coat they really rivals Burberry in technique. The skirts and leather peices were very nice as well as the small lingerie detials hinted with the laced up jackets.

Gucci: About as casual as Gucci has ever been but minus sweat pants and add some mesh to the eqaution. Still sexy and perfect for a nightclub mixed with art nevau detailing. Ok, basically those 2 sentences sound redicoulous but it's true. Jeweltones and black coloration helped to mix both themes of port and classic illustration. Some of the looks near the end were a bit tacky and heavy on the shimmer.

Jil Sander: Sad. Mostly becuase I have always held the brand to such a high expectation and it's not to say that this season was bad, I found that the magic was still in the details. The problem is Jil Sander always offered something quite and clean and which unexpecdedly gave so much with using so little and now it seems that the look has grown more and more with many other designer taking on the Jil esthetic and making it their own. One thing for sure those 90's belts with the sliver trim were a bit tacky.

Marco de Vincenzo: A young designer with only a few seasons under his belt but showing stronger collections each season. This time around he still brought a  feminine, italian apporach to luxury. Many 50's style dresses with fabric mix ranging from dangling bits to sewn eyeltes and ombre beading (my fave), I was also really intrgued by his knit pieces (look 31 & 32 I am takling about you) and hope he delves deeper into knitwear next season. A clean strong pallete with metallics and grey undertones brought the line together nicely.

Marni: A different direction for a Marni collection. The pants were cool but sadly not everyone has a model leg length. The accessories were still typical Marni quirky, chunky, atypical and intersting.

MaxMara: The minimalist in me wanted to love all of it but the pantyhose ruined it for me. The handkerchiefs were very Rochas. I really loved the details- fabric, cut, color... but I found the backside of that last look was just... nope.

Missoni: A very un-Missoni collection! Usually when one thinks of Missoni they already know what to expect and I am sure that will never change but for the main womens collection this season they surprised the consumer with something different. Still knit but not as busy and zig-zaggy as usual (it was still there, don't worry!) instead cleaner pallette with warm hues of purple, pink, orange... added to motifs of birds and waves at the beginning which later turned to jutting rock structures. The dresses taking on a more blankety sari look when it came to the drapping often including printed knit structures. Unlike when Wang or DNKY produced items with their name written all over it I found the subtly and artful way the brand was shown on tops and purses cut out in a rubber print or leather looked right. The peices with open knit strands sometimes beaded near the end really took the collection up a notch whereas the crazy ponytails where distracting.

No. 21:  I know it has been around for a few seasons but I have to admit it is always one of my favorite shows each season. The looks are always on point and really nice. This season the clothes started out dark and sexy with sheer looks that were seen throughout and then turned as well to lighter white jewel embellished shirts and tropical print, which I was surprised by but also really liked how they spun it and used the leaves to create embroidered cut outs and printed pieces. A different take on a trend we have been seeing sporadically season.

Prada: The reason why Prada will always be in my top 5 is the clothes really are something that makes you think twice. Usually upon first inspection they can be garish and not commercial but when you really inspect the garments it all makes sense. And again I am in love. This season was no different at first I was not impressed but I let it all sink in and as always STUNNED. The use of  jewel encrusted trompe l'oeil bra tops, multi-color furs, printed women and sporty knit elements just goes to show that Muccia is her own person and creates trends how she see's fit,

Pucci: Pucci meets hip-hop meets Africa. You have to leave it to Dundas for designing a collection that as always is sexy, sporty and full of jet-setting glamour. The heavyweight belts were a bit distracting as well as Julia Nobis and Hanelore, not that they aren't great models they just don't fit the Pucci aesthetic for me. Instead I want to see Victoria Secret type girls not filler. As with almost all high-end runway fashion brands I often wonder how the sell through is. Pucci has the brand history a company needs and are well known for their prints which I am sure still sell well. The runway looks always exude glamour the Pucci print money allows them to be known for for but I sadly can't imagine the majority of the runway collection are money makers since the styles are for a very specific model-esque elite. Plus they aren't well known for perfumes or bags which is how most brands seem to be funded nowadays. Regardless I loved the no make-up and tussled hair look. And another positive note as always Pucci makes a sexy shoe and this season was no different.

Roberto Cavalli: One thing can be said about Cavalli. He is consistent. I can't lie, usually something like Cavalli would go against all that I hold true to my design aesthetic. With most any other designer I would hate on such garish, flamboyant styles but for some reason I can't help but always get into it some Cavalli bling. This season like any other you know to expect sexy, boho-chic, animal print, embellishment, tassels, lace... you get the picture. This season was all about shine. As always you really need to get up close and personal with the garments to see the details and how intricate the pieces are. From afar it was a bit of a textured Tinman effect near the beginning of the show and then a lacy sea foam patchwork hippy section followed by a sharp turn into black and white. Those Muumuus however are something I can not get behind.

Versace: Leave it to Donatella and her hard rocker ways. This season had Versace going back to their rocker roots complete with concert T's, denim and chains. I wasn't feeling this collection as much as I have past seasons (S11, F010, F09, S09 I am looking at you) but as someone who is not the target market I can still see many pieces that the Versace girl and drag queen will love. Hello those shoes! I did like the use of the medusa head on the bags and when mixed with chains on several of the dresses. Also, Lindsey Wixson's hair in it's current state is not Versace worthy.