Dries van Noten

Menswear SS17- Part 2 by Mike Tyle

As not to overwhelm here is a continuation from my last post featuring another set of reviews to my fave Menswear designers this season.

Dries Van Noten

Every season I am astounded. His collections bring sophistication to the masses. Always bringing fans on a journey to another time and place. Normally I am not a print kinda guy but when it comes out of het Modepaleis I know it will be something I need in my closet. This season is no different the collection moves effortlessly from cream, soft whites and punches of metallic silver intermixing with macrame and patch work reminiscent of the arts & crafts movement of the 70's intermixing. Then medieval tapestry prints and camouflage. Ending in loose draped indigo fabric looks. Wow. Basically,  Scotch & Soda will be knocking this off in...

 

 

 

 

DSquared2

I found the Ziggy platforms to be a bit distracting but I know the Caden twins always have something tongue-and-cheek to offset their designs but also show that gender-fuck can be mainstream! DSquared2 always love a good theme and I am right there with them! They can make anything be over the top yet still masculine enough that a fashionable guy would want in their closet regardless, ok maybe the sequined camo parka is pushing it... This SS the theme was skinhead which has been done by numerous designers over the season and I've always been a fan of the outcome. This time around Dean & Dan added a bit of an overtly homo-dandy twist to make it their own.

 

 

 

 

Gucci

The imagination of Alessandro Michele is unique in that he can take so many different ideas jumble them up and create something new out of it. Always exciting and intriguing this season is no different. There are so many elements at play you don't know where to look first!  Now to say fishermen, Dynasty China & Donald Duck don't mix hasn't seen the Edwardian preppy dandy boys of Gucci under Alessandro!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Maison Margiela

Quintessential imperfectly perfect Margiela delivered as always. Why do something dramatic when you have a wining combo every time? Paper fabrics mix with fluid fabrics, unfinished garments and tailors tacking galore left me feeling happy.

Niel Barrett

Sports references were still heavily referenced, and do well for the brand. Instead of the army green, black & white palette we have become used to has now branched out into more 70's brown tones with red-orange and yellow highlights used in diagonal inserts and modern graphics. Also something we haven't seen much in past seasons is his use of denim. I've always been a fan of his work but I like this toned down grown-up direction more than the use of broken-up statues artworks of past seasons. I especially love some of the leather pieces with symmetrical inserts on the sleeves and breasts.

Prada

Nylon. The fabric that started Prada. Season after season reinventing the label only this time using the founding fabric to create yet another utilitarian look. This Prada man is ready to wander. Weather it be trekking across countries or from work to the gym the look is apparent. Athleisure is king and peoples attitudes towards relaxed dressing has long been the norm. So why not pair breathable nylon with a suit coat, leggings, socks & sandals. Bright colors, weather maps and some cute conversational prints added for good measure. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Raf Simons

In collaboration with the Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation images adorn each outfit with the over all look of each model sent out as an homage to the great photographer. Whether a still life, Patti Smith or a semi-hard dick with a cock ring the pictures framed, printed, cut & sewn to the items brought to life the works of a great photographer and melded perfectly with the oversize garments and added another layer to the thinking man's wardrobe.

What I am living for #6 by Mike Tyle

WEAR:

Black. The weather in Brussels this summer has been raining, cold and depressing plus I have been mourning my youth now that I turned 30.

SHOP:

For my big 3-0 I received a gift card to Dries van Noten and am over the top excited to go to town! Aside from that umm it's about to be July. I have my sale list ready!

DESIGN:

Ikea. I know. But seriously. They are stepping up their game over there in Sweden. Snatching those H&M wig's and turning it into home décor realness: Katie Eary (Hello, brain!), Walter van Beirendonck (I seriously need this Tiger rug STAT) and overly freaking out about the new HAY and Tom Dixon collections. What kind of dream team collabs…

SEE:

The latest Gucci F/W16 campaign. No more words necessary.

Presenting a video from the Gucci Fall Winter 2016 campaign. Wandering from tea houses to pachinko parlors with carefree abandon, the Gucci kids collide with the chaotic lights and sounds of Tokyo. The psychedelic scenography is echoed in the energy and decoration in Alessandro Michele's collection.

LISTEN:

Anohni 'Hopelessness' is still on repeat.

COLOR:

Christo and Jeanne-Claude: The Floating Piers, Lake Iseo, Italy.  The stark marigold catwalk agains the deep blues of the lake are breathtaking ans more than just Intsagram worthy.

Simon Doonan: Getting It Right by Mike Tyle

The ever funny Simon Doonan once accurately depicted the 3 categories most women fall into when fashion comes in play:

The Gypsy, The Socialite & The Existentialist.

Ever since reading this years ago I have been waiting for a follow up Menswear version. Finally courtesy of Slate. The time has arrived!

Here is my breakdown of the 4 archetypal male tribes:

The Perverse Prepster

"The Perverse Prepster can best be described as Ralph-Lauren-hits-the-psych-ward."

It's like the Manic Pixie Dream Girl of Wallstreet. Classic. Preppy. Professional with a quirky twist.

Go to brands: Thom Browne mixed with Supreme meets Raf Simons & Bellrose.

THE ARTY NINJA

"Every generation seems to throw up a black-clad outsider cult: rockers, bikers, and punks. And now we have ours."

My current fave look at the moment. Quite diverse: It can easily be athleisure as it can be Kanye meets dystopian future as it can be Japanese avant-garde.

Go to brands: Rick Ownes, Givenchy, Public School.

The Dedicated Follower of Satin

"Incorporates a compelling mixture of hippie-dippie, glam rock, and rockabilly."

Not for the faint at heart. But it is growing on me with every re-invention. I love a satin bomber and I have been known to wear suede fringe...

Go to brands: Saint LaurentGucciDries van Noten

The Statham

"Shaved head? CrossFit body? Wall-to-wall tattoos? Dirty, slouchy denims?"

Rough, manly man, mid-life crisis driven. "Heritage" driven denim, "Authentic" pre-worn leather jackets... keywords this man goes the worker look but is all facade. The wearer is both the man who wants a motorcycle to a man-bun raw organic vegan beehive trader. Looks dirty but is scared of dirt.

Go to brands: BelstaffJohn Varvatos, Denim & Supply

 

The Schlub

Naturally the majority of men fall into this category.

In general men DGAF. 

Despite working in fashion and talking every fucking day about changing the way men dress. How the younger man cares much more about being fashionable (which is true), the opposite is also just as true. 

They want to be comfy. The want navy/black/grey. They want cargo's.

They wear socks and sandals... not ironically. The mix prints and patterns... not ironically. They wear full on denim... not ironically.

Go to brands: Walmart, Kohl's but most important: wear for a full 12 year cycle before returning for 2nd pair of boot-cut.

Paris Fashion Week S/S14 by Mike Tyle

Acne: Nautical is always a timeless theme.

Ann Demeulemeester: a great fresh look to a designer who knows her stuff. I really loved seeing the great red color as well as the graphic designs and stripes paired with billowy pants and shrunken jackets. Of course shoes and accessories were perfect as to be expected.

Anthony Vaccarello: Denim was a take on Marant, the peak-a-boo straps Donatella, the pointy skirts reminded me of loin clothes but the mesh and military buttons were appreciated. I find his clothing a bit tired and trying really hard to be sexy but just looking like bluntly cut miniskirts and not necessarily items that will transfer well in real life.

Akris: Oh, Akris too commercial for you own good. I mean, well yes probably really good for you since that makes money but showing a gazillion colorways on the runway and missing the newness that one expects from high-end I was bored after only a couple looks.

Alexander McQueen: I have to say I really enjoyed this season! I am always impressed with the amount of work that goes into making manly of these only for runway theatrical McQueen items every season but yet this time around it somehow rang more true to the McQueen aesthetic as opposed to past collections which were missing something. Who knew that cavalierly and African tribal themes could match up so well.

Balenciaga: not my favorite from Wang. I thought his first collection really came out surprising me but this time it just didn't capture what I was looking for in the Balenciaga aesthetic..

Balmain: Rousteing loves himself some 80's Versace. I have to say I am happy to see a more pared down look less jewel encrusted heavy 80's Dynasty, but... I guess in a way it's still a homage to the house itself perhaps under OdlR but when I think what Balmain could show I think about Balmain the man and the founding of the house. But also times change and if this is selling then make them euros! But then again the company make over 50% cash in licensing... but then again what house doesn't anymore.

Carven: Not feeling it. I love Carven, I love cammo, I love 90's, I love structural garments. But not here. The mix was just too much or too literal... There may have been pieces I can get behind but the overall look was dated looking and not the quirky cute Carven I've grown to love. The flower appliqués on the shoulders were sweet touches but the chunky boarder belt around the waist was too prominent. The full on flower looks however were a  bit 80's drapes and I'm not here for that. The chokers and platforms were giving me Clueless vibes, which after this season are giving me more NYFW vibes than anything else.

Céline: The first look made me look twice. This is Céline? But then as one gradually sees look by look it all comes together and yes it is Céline. At least this is Celine's modern minimalist take on 90's patterns and colorways with an East-London and slight African influence. I want to go on the adventure these clothes are destined for!

Chloé: I like the idea of easy dressing for summer. Light, airy fabrics . But handkerchief hems are the devil in my book. Not only dated but just ugly and never look right in real life. Sadly several styles had them and hopefully the buyers feel the same way and the patterns get fixed before production because otherwise...

Chanel: 90 looks... enough said. Ain't nobody got time for that. I mean I GET that it is Chanel but... editing can be your friend.

Dior: I want to like the whole new wave feeling and I understand Raf has a new customer that isn't necessarily the Jil Sander consumer but his take on classic styles is missing something. Maybe it is just that there is too much happening... I mean with 76 looks there are a lot of stories going on. I liked the colors and cut outs mixed with asymmetrical pleating (Hello Issey Miyake, seems this season has been good for you). Less a fan of the wording and the flowers we have seen a couple seasons now. The badges were a bit lame as well. Ending with the metallic styles I though was cool though.

Dries van Noten: Great fabric mix as per usual. Full of pleating and ruffles with a gold splash for color added to the burgundy, blacks and off white. Liked the shoes and accessories naturally.

Giambattista Valli: Pretty. Valli always has something for a girls girl but this time a turn in a different direction. I look forward to seeing how this evolves.

Givenchy: I really like the direction this collection went in this season. Even though there have been many clean looks throughout the past this time a cozy feeling was there that isn't something I would put with Givenchy. Maybe it was the copious amount of draped jersey or the charcoal and tobacco orange, leather and sequence which went beautifully with the Madame Grès technique mixed with African influences ( a reoccurring theme this Paris season it seams) and Japanese kimono silhouettes. A worldly collection that didn't seem overkill.

Haider Ackermann: For being a traditional Ackermann filled elongated draped menswear collection I found it also to be very feminine. Gold accents, see-through tulle and silk and many dresses under suit jackets and over metallic pants. Don't mind if I do.

Hermes: Chic simplicity, leathers and scarf prints. All things Hermes has perfected. This season showed us set again what Hermes is capable of and how even with more conservative restriction there is so much in design one can do. I wasn't as much of a fan of the tropical prints, at least not as a boot, but I enjoyed many of the looks fine details that are there without being garish but instead bring the garment to a higher level.

Hussein Chalayan: Not many people can live up to the designs of Chalayan. Every seasons leaves something to inspire to. The few pastel tropical prints were giving me Golden Girl vibes which isn't always a bad thing.

Isabel Marant: On a high with the pending H&M collection it was also important to make sure that the two collections didn't cross paths while still staying true to the casual Parisian chic Marant aesthetic which girls all over love. I wasn't in love with this collection as much as I had excpeted. It seemed nice... very much in the lines of Zadig et Voltaire in terms of styling but less rock and more Victorian in contruction (i.e. jacekts and blouses) with girly vibes seen with plenty of tulle layers and clean white looks matched with leather pants

John Galliano: Technical fabrics and rather clean looks not what I was excpetcting but pleasantly surprised. Cool cut outs. Yet also something very old school about it.

Kenzo: at first I was meh and then I was ohh and by the end I loved it all... for the most part. the shoes were a bit strange, the front bed looked robotic and I am sure trip-worthy plus that metal cage in the back better be sturdy! Now on to the looks... The first few screamed Acne to me and I felt there was a general high amount of Proenza Schouler redux going on. But I am not hating on it. I loved the prints but then again I wouldn't expect anything less from Kenzo. The wavy hemlines of the shirts were quite cool and I can assure you NOT easy to get in production. But in general with all things Kenzo more power to you I love you like always.

Lanvin: Yup. Awesome. I mean it's shiny. What's not to love. Also I was getting a Golden Girls vibe which again.. what's not to love. I wasn't feeling the carryover of the big jewlery and graphic T's, but if it's selling work it!

Louis Vuitton: Really Marc you wait this long to show denim? As with any Marc Jacobs collection I get it and love it but then at the same time I am abhorredI saw several looks that were reminiscent to past seasons with a lot of show girl thrown on top. Which in a way is quite appropriate for a lasting impression on the brand. The runway itself was spectacular and a great retrospective to many past creations.

Maison Martin Margiela: Margiela doesn't need gimmicks what they do making you think differently about basics is enough of a look on it's own. That is why I found this collection difficult. As much as I loved the tailoring which I expect from MMM there were looks that just didn't mesh in the opposites attract Margiela way. Maybe after the 2nd go through it will hit me and love it all...

Ok, did a re-look and yes it is awesome!

Miu Miu: Coats! Muccia has done it again, this seasons take on the ever loved swinging 60's vibe Miu Miu is known for had many bold colors be it bright red or sea foam green. From school girl to beaded show girl, Prada showed extremes. Also in fabric mix with wool A-line skirts and fur and vinyl mixed coats. Patent leather purses and of course socks with chunks heels.

Moncler Gamme Rouge: Valli redux. At first I thought this is the perfect mix between showing off what the designer is known for and mixing it with the tech take of Moncler. Unlike his past Moncler shows this was strictly runway and well if you know what Moncler runways have been in the past no more word necessary. By the end though I thought the line was a little too reminiscent of his own work. It reminded me of the M.J./L.V. issue.

Nina Ricci: What one would except from Nina Ricci. Feminine, delicate, lace and lingerie styles. Satin, flowers and gauzy off white, grey and bright blues sometimes clashed but when the theme is pretty it all seems to work in the end. I have to say this is one of the few lines where I can see the costumer not buying just the fragrances and accessories but actual garments as well.

Rick Owens: What fashion shows are all about. Surprising the audience and if anyone did that this season it was Rick Owens. Not only did the awesome step dancers do their thing but it was perfectly fitting with the hard edge of Owens leather he is famous for. If there is a woman I want to see wearing these clothes it's one who has power.

Click here for the video that is what awesomeness is all about.

Rochas: Rochas much like Marni is always one to show a timelessness eclectic women in a  way not many designers can get away with. This time was no different mixing 50's housewife with carnival beads and satin, velvet, lame fabrics for quite the experience. If there is anyone deserving of a Schiaparelli title look no further.

Roland Mouret: Very 80's synth feeling. bright colors and color blocking. Sadly seemed a bit cheap but funny enough that probably sells well! The silhouette he's known for was still there and I am sure many a pop-star and actress will get use out of these dresses on the red carpet but compared to several other Paris shows this year this didn't match up to me.

Sacai: I love mesh, what's not to love about it! But on the other hand argyle is... ugh, I just can't. Needless to say I was back and forth with this collection. The primary color range and sporty materials mixed with more evening wear looks were fun. I liked the fabric mix and experimentation which with Sacai is always enjoyable. The jacket silhouettes were really nice and worked well with the menswear style shirting

Saint Laurent: High fashion hipster. As always with (Y)SL under Slimane, I take it with a grain of salt. After reading the reviews and first go through I though pricey F21 now I look at it and see the fabrics and techniques and think Zara will have a field day but the outcome will never be the real thing. I think this new direction for the label obviously has that rocker vibe Heidi is known for and apparently is selling $$$. It might not be Yves at the fore front but then again look at what Balmain once was compared to now.

Sonia Rykiel: Ok I know I said I hate argyle 2 reviews above... well I take it back. But only in this instance. Maybe because it isn't your typical argyle. Mix that with metallic threaded knitwear and fur and you have me. Some of the pastel colorways I could have done without though. I think sometimes it takes going back to the beginning to make something fresh and new again. Here we see the Parisian chic of the 70s Rykiel revived.

Stella McCartney: I know everyone loved the lace dresses but they just weren't doing it for me, the other looks however I really enjoyed, very 90's contemporary. Shoes and sunglasses were on point, but that is to be expected with Stella.

Undercover: Not a fan of the wording pieces but mostly because I think Viktor and Rolf did it better way back when. The wigs reminded me of YSL F/W08 and the cuts of the asymmetrical styles were a bit Givenchy. But I think the neo-punk thing works well. The LED light thing was a bit gimmicky as well, I just can't see it translating well to everyday...

Valentino: I was getting some D&G vibes with the reoccurring theme. Ok not that bad... but there is some overlap but with 70-some styles but that it to be expected... There is though an evolution of the Valentino woman happening only it's far from the days of Valentino and his vibrant red hit the runway. Now a more conservative toned down but still beautiful woman being represented. Very renaissance era in regard to materials and silhouette but with native embroidery, bright colors and hippie leather fringe and astrology gold jewelry thrown in for good measure.