Fendi

Top Resort '15 review by Mike Tyle

Can we first talk about how many lookbooks Bo Don got this season... was not expecting it but get that money girl!

Before I get on to my (possibly tipsy) Twitter style reviews of the shows... Here you can see all the looks that I liked the most.

Now... onto some shade/no shade.

3.1 Philip Lim: Sixities theme. Safe. Nice colorways. Those pants in look 23... questionable.

Acne: Oversize and quirky. check and check. Both things Acne knows how to do best. Wasn't feeling the bamboo closures.

Akris: Distracting Greek(?) street background. A lot of chic yet German looking casual wear.

Alexander McQueen: Look #3 gave me SS15 menswear vibes, which is a nice pairing. Seemed more McQ to me in that it was pretty wearable for a normal McQueen look book. I'm not a big flower fan near the end... but loving all of the outerwear made up for it!

Alexander Wang: Look #1 was a lot of look to start off with. I do like the idea of incorporating workwear elements which Wang is always keen to do. Wasn't my fave from him but he's busy.

Altuzarra: As always anything Joseph Altuzarra does I am a fan of. The man knows how to make an A-line skirt and baggy blouse work. His corporate chic meets boho-gypsy designs get me every time.

BCBG Max Azria: Anytime there is a windblown look happening it gets a pass... in this case the whole collection was done on a beach. Naturally I had a lot of favorites... call me a basic mall bitch if you will.

Balenciaga: Still working the colorblind look. Luckily there are some sharp silhouettes to match. Wang had me until the asymmetrical hems came out. But again... he's busy between H&M, T and sharing the fabrics with his eponymous line.

Balmain: Binx does Dynasty with a dash of Kim K. Bebe will be all over this.

Bottega Veneta: Doing what a Resort collection was created to do... sell. I really enjoyed the batik direction the 2nd half went into.

Burberry Prorsum: I always look forward to the Burberry look books! They are well photographed and the clothes tell a story. As always everything was nice but I felt the story being told was, well, nothing new.  I mean, ugh, dip-dye? Still going strong I see. The fabrics and looks seemed just like remixes to familiar styles... trench-update aside.

Calvin Klein Collection: I love me some CK collection. That first coat on Ewers was EVERYTHING. Always innovative fabrics and thankfully finally back in a modern clean streamlined silhouette. I am still having nightmares about Pre-Fall 14...

Carven: Sporty yet girly with innovative fabric mix come to me! Gone is the dirndl-esque girl of yesteryear, far from a hater here, but a new more confident woman has emerged. I could have done without the logo but it was still more tastefully done than Wang SS14.

Chanel: I want to say it was bait racist... but I am sure the middle east will eat this collection up and Chanel will have made their quarter profit on the first day it hits stores.

Christopher Kane: I am on the fence. I think a lot can be done with the styles as separates... I really liked all the stories told and while all different went well together. I would personally nix the cheap looking flower pins/buttons. But Kane always needs a little something quirky to show off.

DKNY: I get it. Baseball caps are a look. But 27 of them?

Derek Lam: It worked for Philip Lim. It seems the 60's are an inspiration all around. Keep at it because it works well.

DVF: I can't. Wendy Williams can wear it well but I didn't find anything new here.

Diesel Black Gold: Saint Laurent meets Sandro.

DSquared2: Fierce. Leave it to the twins to bring to life another campy theme. As always 60 & 70's were prevalent and as always I wanted more.

Erdem: The things you can do with lace, flowers and ruffles. In this case it wasn't the usual Erdem affair but one breaking away from the frilly older women and into a more trend-driven playful girl. Gave me F13 Erdem vibes and I am happy to see a revival.

Fendi: Mesh, pop graphics and of course a bit of fur. Binx rocked these Eurocentric looks and the Logo splashed across the items surprisingly added to the fun.

Gucci: following a 60's Mod inspired F14 comes a resort of the same ilk. The only issue I find is in the fact that many looks could also have come out of a J.Crew catalog.

Herve Leger: Pure Sex. Balmain meets Versace and a high-end better manufactured Bebe was born.

Hugo Boss: I am obsessed with Jason Wu's take on the Hugo Boss woman. Clean, chic, modern still very Hugo Boss but with a twist. I look forward to seeing what the next seasons will provide.

Jason Wu: Neutral palette and clean looks. It was feeling a bit in the direction of Boss wich is a good thing in this case.

Jil Sander: I don't know a time when I haven't found something to love about a Jil Sander collection (the same goes for the Navy line) this case it was no different, bell shapes and monochrome colors. Looks like the new Head of Design is a better fit than expected.

Jonathan Saunders: More of this please. Great individual pieces in color block and interesting prints. Basically what one should expect from a Jonathan Saunders collection. Gold, beige, sliver, bright blues... stripes and lamé fabrics gave the 70's feel Saunders is known for.

Josh Groot: Not yet a household name and came a bit out of left fieId but the clean simple modern lines, black and while minimalism got to me.... basically I was LOVING everything.

Kenzo: Was having some F09/S13 LV feelings. Maybe not so much the bunny and mod themes but never the less some of the fabrics and silhouettes went there. As always I expect Leon & Lim to know the direction they want to take us in and know it well. This season was just as bright and graphic as ever. Yet again cementing their way as fan faves.

Lanvin: Nice Lanvin fodder. But I'm mostly here for Jamie Bochert. Throw in some thin scarves in place of heavy jewelry Lanvin is known for and you have Lanvin collection as expected full of high end fabrics and silhouettes to match. 

Louis Vuitton: F14 rehash with more embellishments and spring colors. Enjoyed the innovative fabrics.

MSGM: Keep doing what you are doing. It's working. Graphic, girly yet modern. 

Margiela: Simple- I. Want. Everything.

Marc Jacobs: Mess. Next. 

Marc by Marc: Better than the main line. Also prob more sellable than Bartley & Hilliers first soldier themed (yet v. cool) showing.

Marni: This and very season of Marni need much more publicity. For such a storied fashion house which a specific aesthetic it seriously grows and gets better every fucking season. WORK!!!

Mary Katrantzou: YES. I am so glad she isn't a one trick pony. I am always ALWAYS wondering what she will pull next. She knows what works and how to push it in the next direction. As far as Resort goes this could easily have been a full FW/SS styled collection. 

Miu Miu: Daphnie from Scooby Doo want's her clothes back. If it is one thing that Miu Miu knows how to do it's bringing 60's back every season and making it just as new and cool as always.

Mugler: David Korma for Mugler just makes sense.

Nina Ricci: The only difference between any Nina Ricci collection is basically that since S10 it hasn't been designed by Theyskens. Otherwise just as French and feminine as always.

No. 21: Yet another diffusion line getting it better than the main brand. This seasons No. 21 brought the Italian flair and newness I always expect from them. Wish I could see every girl wearing these clothes.

Peter Pilotto: As always there is A LOT happening. The photos are jarring but as all Pilotto designs look wonderful in real life.

Prabal Gurung: Bold color blocking and graphic paint strokes, but not in the vain of Celine. Always a fan just next time no Lurex please.

Preen: I really don't know which line to review since they are both separate but equal in my eyes. Both showed sport directions with bold colors and fabric mix with the Preen stipe in place. Biggest qualm for me was the cheap looking denim print. Never again. I beg of the two of you.

Proenza Schouler: Bam! Proenza graphics and sharp silhouettes one expects; while theres nothing new  it's all perfect.

Public School; More and more the design duo's line is being talked about and this collection of evolved basics explains why.

Rag & Bone: Effortlessly cool. From the background to the styles themselves. Basically this is how casual should be done. Point blank chic.

Roksanda Ilincic: Work those color block statements! A very impressive collection this season. Zglad to see Roksanda growing into a well-rounded yet distinct look.

Stella McCartney: Fun & serious. 2 things the Stella customer looks for. I personally liked the first 10 looks (strong silhouettes) and the last 10 looks (full on bold stripes and paisley).

Suno: wasn't feeling it these season.

Thakoon: What can I say I always find Thakoon enjoyable but I also think it's always at risk of becoming a Zara collection that costs more and has better fabrics.

The Row: I don't want to say they are taking notes from Margiela but the fabrics the design aesthetic and the silhouette are putting the Twins at the same level.

Thom Browne: Crazy show is crazy. The aftermath that will actually make it to stores will be crave-worthy. Who knew prep and florals could work. I mean it's overloaded to the max but it's Thom Browne. Somehow the end product always makes sense.

Tory Burch: The things this woman could make me like... In general I am not a fan but when I see the look books and catwalk shows every season it make me understand why she is banking so much. Think Anthro and Banana Republic had a baby.

Valentino: Unlike when Chanel does 90 looks for a resort collection I am ALWAYS excited to go through Valentino's creations. I could have done without the butterfly cammo they are still trying to make happen but everything else was perfection. What other brand can meld the medieval looks they churn out every seasons with 60's style mod dresses?! I especially loved the crazy block graphics and of course the leather laser cut lace. Which is saying a lot since not many people besides Prada F08 can make me feel that way about lace.

Vionnet: Dragonfly print was a cool idea.

Pre-Fall 14 part 3 by Mike Tyle

Soon enough will be time to work on Menswear FW14 and Couture S14!

As always check out my fave picks in Pinterest and leave me a comment on your thoughts on the collections as well!

Acne- Not many clothiers can recreate classic pieces in such quirky cool ways. leave it to the Swedish to do just that. This time featuring large proportions, shearling, neoprene, leather and silk. Hard to go wrong with that combination even better is the colorways full of watery teal, deep brown and creamy beige.

Alberta Ferretti-  A nautical theme with rich colors and textures. Lot's of flashes of bold hues mixed with deep neutrals... Much like the ocean. Beautiful luxury fabrics such as silk and fur embellished with gold wire embroideries for a naval effect. There was something different to this collection then what I have seen in the past from Ferretti and I like the direction it is going in.

Alexander McQueen- I was quite excited to see a designer play with tailors tack! I mean we see it often in the form of Margiela but in a whole different context. While the McQueen of Sarah Burton is no A.McQ to say the least I do think the more commercial direction she is leading the house in isn't a bad thing and the imagination has not been lost. Morphing of the menswear to more feminine evening wear starting with wool jackets and ending in rose embroidered taffeta dresses was the correct juxtaposition to keep the world of McQueen as we once knew it.

Armani- As much as I want to like Armani I just am not a fan. I will say this time wasn't a snooze-fest. Regardless I always bow at the fab. advertisements each season so Giorgio you still win. I was impressed with the fabrics used and the silhouettes while I find the designs always skew to a more 80's boxy influence I somehow got it this time. The color story was also on point. Some of the styling however caused me to side-eye what is happening over there in Milan.

Balenciaga- A strong collection for Wang full of technical fabrics and black & white. Both of which are becoming more and more synonymous as the typical Balenciaga x A.Wang mash-up. Not that I am complaining, it really seems to work well, creating interest and added value. You can also tell he hits those archives hard which can also be a good thing because with Balenciaga there is a long history of great work at the house which should be used and reinterpreted. Playing on volume and fabric mix has me hoping that the FW14 will be just as dramatic.

Balmain- I really liked it. Which is more or less a surprise as I have come to expect Balmain to bring Dynasty every season. Ok that was still there but mixed with safari which is something I always love. The colors were clean and just right. Khaki, hunter, navy with animal print thrown in... The fabrics were what one would expect for the highest price points imaginable. Lot's of leather, angora, metal embellished pieces. I hope this direction continues and am sure the customer base will grow as this incorporates a woman that isn't into clothes that are pure 80's sex.

Carven- I am always a Carven supporter. I love that the girl looks are growing up with the woman who wears them while still keeping the school girl charm. This season the collar really got my attention. Not only was it big but had just the right curve... Ok I am letting my designer brain get to me. Aside from that the berry tones and clean tartan checks used in mix with the bomber jackets, fisherman knits and twine closures added to the Carven look. I wasn't such a fan of the bib look that showed up in #22 but all in all the season was another winner for me.

Chloé- Pleasantly surprised. I understand Hannah MacGibbon hasn't been at the helm for a while but I am still always thankful that we have moved past those frumpy beige days. I really liked this season a lot better than last which was a bit too gypsy/handkerchief hem heavy for me. 

Christopher Kane- Bold colors, full skirts, fur, python print... it all worked really nicely. The collection had a classic approach but with nontraditional pieces that added something new to the mix, namely the wide curved straps that held it together or the chunky zippers. Then came the molecular science side of Kane which we have had glimpses of in the past and what seemed to have worked well. This time around I wasn't feeling it and with Men's FW14 carrying the theme further. I hope I won't get to sick of seeing the 3-D imagery as I am sure it will be heavily used in editorials the next few months.

Creatures of the Wind- Nice. Compared to past CotW collections it seemed more toned down but at the same time still quirky. A bit mod with a hint of hippie. Something perfect for an Anthro/Free People gal with even more dinero to spend on leather, silk and cashmere.

Dior- Wow, where has this been for all the other Dior by Raf shows... Finally the flowers are at a minimum, the Belgian look is showing up (where else would you see a New Look made out of a a MA jacket?) The fur coats with a shock of electric blue really drew my attention. I think the use of Dior in a new way this season really made me take notice and hope that this direction continues. The subtle use of the Dior look mixed with new ideas such as the take on leopard print, the he metallic checks or how the silk pieces meshed against tweed looks or the leather jacket.

Derek Lam- I loved the fabrics used chunky fur, mohair, velvet, bonded jersey, origami cuts.. but the cropped bell bottoms on the other hand... all in all it really goes to show the use of quality fabrics always deliver quite an impact and makes the price point justifiable.

Fausto Puglisi- Still with those damn rounded circle skirts... Loud, graphic and very Italian. Block contrast primary colors gave it a mod edge which I can always appreciate.

Fendi- Graphic, color blocked and furry as per usual. Karl Lagerfeld... Shade, no shade but if no one knew that you designed both Chanel and Fendi no body would believe it. As always I love Fendi and this season was no different. A nod to menswear this pre-fall with many modern layering pieces

Giambattista Valli- Brocade, fur, florals and leopard. Sounds familiar. While I found the direction for the pictures to mimc past lookbooks it didn't bother me. The camera angles gave movement to the garments as well as more interesting views of the styles.

Givenchy- Tribal meets tech. Modern with Bauhaus and Klee/Klimt influences yet full of fur, still with African influence and sequence reminiscent of SS14.

J.W. Anderson- Seemed a bit more wearable than previous seasons and def. more than the menswear. I appreciate the ascetic that Anderson tries with his clothing but at the same time it is obvious he is heavily influenced by Rei. The colors this season reminded me of Celine SS14 women's which was a hit so werk! 

Jonathan Saunders- Really impressed. I mean I am always impressed by Saunders but something about this collection drew me in. Very wearable and casual but with the right fabrics to make it still dressy. A definite menswear feel in a great color range of olive, salmon, black, white, ruby...

Milan Fashion Week S/S14 by Mike Tyle

Alberta Ferretti: I get that the theme was South America but man did the people at Ferretti turn basket weaving Peru into the girliest thing ever! Flowers and lace and ruffles, oh my. Aside from that it was giving me D&G vibes. Take that as you will.

Aquilano.Rimondi: Just when you think tropical flowers, gag me. These guys show a whole new way to go about it and make it awesome and new. Throw in some neoprene THE fabric of the past couple seasons add some jewel tones and voila beauty! Possibly one of the best shows of the season.

Armani: Only 57 looks. I say that in genuine surprise since last season had oh... 85? Finally 28 less colorways. Albeit meticulously made, still has that 1980's power suit silhouettes, that all look the same. I'm just telling it how I see it. 

Bottega Veneta: Oh shit, that was some good stuff. This is how you do pleats and not in a hot mess 80's prom dress way. The best of SS14. I always feel like people don't talk about the genius that is Tomas Maier, like they do Muccia, he always brings it every season in a paired down high luxury classic yet cutting edge way. This season his fabric choices were on point especially the quality seen in the raw edge and feather looks that seemed to melt into the dresses. Don't even get me started on those Japanese-esque pleating techniques, ugh the craftsmanship is killing me. The somber spring colors also were spot on in my opinion especially for the customer and price level. These are items that are unique and timeless. Shut it down! 

Bluemarine: High-end Bebe.

Dolce & Gabbana: Been there done that 5 seasons going now... I would have fine but those gold coins ruined it for me oh and those laughable pillar shoes.

Etro: Someone could have edited this to 40 looks and that still would have been more than enough paisely. I really liked the other prints very retro and nice. I thought the shoes didn't really match the collection, much too flashy where as I was getting more of an explorer, hand made embroidery, fabric mix indian vibe from the rest of the outfits.

Fausto Puglisi: Very Italina. Sexy, summer, fun. I really was surprised by the tropical palm tree motif throughout the show was not overwheling even though it was in a majority of looks and in different techniques. Though I didn't really like the rounded skirts I as I felt they awkard looking and really won't transfer well off a runway, it looked like they took a sphere and chopped it in half. The leather details however were nice and added a sexy juxtapostion to the easy beach theme. hair and make-up were spot on.

Fendi: I feel like Fendi is often looked over also I feel like Karl Lagerfeld is only looked at as the face of Chanel. It's too bad becuase in my opinon Fendi is always much stronger and frankly more interesting than Chanel. I understand it is a different customer, much like his own lines are but still Fendi is where it is at. Usually bright and geometic with intersting fabric mixes this season was no different.

Ferragamo: The pinstripe peices remindiend me of Stella McCartney only I liked hers better... maybe it was becuase of the colorway. I was feeling the 90's minimalism. At first I wasn't too into the snakeskin but I thought it really added a nice contrast to the soft feimine looks and brought life to the otherwise drab palette. This season showed as well how good Ferragamo is at making a trench coat they really rivals Burberry in technique. The skirts and leather peices were very nice as well as the small lingerie detials hinted with the laced up jackets.

Gucci: About as casual as Gucci has ever been but minus sweat pants and add some mesh to the eqaution. Still sexy and perfect for a nightclub mixed with art nevau detailing. Ok, basically those 2 sentences sound redicoulous but it's true. Jeweltones and black coloration helped to mix both themes of port and classic illustration. Some of the looks near the end were a bit tacky and heavy on the shimmer.

Jil Sander: Sad. Mostly becuase I have always held the brand to such a high expectation and it's not to say that this season was bad, I found that the magic was still in the details. The problem is Jil Sander always offered something quite and clean and which unexpecdedly gave so much with using so little and now it seems that the look has grown more and more with many other designer taking on the Jil esthetic and making it their own. One thing for sure those 90's belts with the sliver trim were a bit tacky.

Marco de Vincenzo: A young designer with only a few seasons under his belt but showing stronger collections each season. This time around he still brought a  feminine, italian apporach to luxury. Many 50's style dresses with fabric mix ranging from dangling bits to sewn eyeltes and ombre beading (my fave), I was also really intrgued by his knit pieces (look 31 & 32 I am takling about you) and hope he delves deeper into knitwear next season. A clean strong pallete with metallics and grey undertones brought the line together nicely.

Marni: A different direction for a Marni collection. The pants were cool but sadly not everyone has a model leg length. The accessories were still typical Marni quirky, chunky, atypical and intersting.

MaxMara: The minimalist in me wanted to love all of it but the pantyhose ruined it for me. The handkerchiefs were very Rochas. I really loved the details- fabric, cut, color... but I found the backside of that last look was just... nope.

Missoni: A very un-Missoni collection! Usually when one thinks of Missoni they already know what to expect and I am sure that will never change but for the main womens collection this season they surprised the consumer with something different. Still knit but not as busy and zig-zaggy as usual (it was still there, don't worry!) instead cleaner pallette with warm hues of purple, pink, orange... added to motifs of birds and waves at the beginning which later turned to jutting rock structures. The dresses taking on a more blankety sari look when it came to the drapping often including printed knit structures. Unlike when Wang or DNKY produced items with their name written all over it I found the subtly and artful way the brand was shown on tops and purses cut out in a rubber print or leather looked right. The peices with open knit strands sometimes beaded near the end really took the collection up a notch whereas the crazy ponytails where distracting.

No. 21:  I know it has been around for a few seasons but I have to admit it is always one of my favorite shows each season. The looks are always on point and really nice. This season the clothes started out dark and sexy with sheer looks that were seen throughout and then turned as well to lighter white jewel embellished shirts and tropical print, which I was surprised by but also really liked how they spun it and used the leaves to create embroidered cut outs and printed pieces. A different take on a trend we have been seeing sporadically season.

Prada: The reason why Prada will always be in my top 5 is the clothes really are something that makes you think twice. Usually upon first inspection they can be garish and not commercial but when you really inspect the garments it all makes sense. And again I am in love. This season was no different at first I was not impressed but I let it all sink in and as always STUNNED. The use of  jewel encrusted trompe l'oeil bra tops, multi-color furs, printed women and sporty knit elements just goes to show that Muccia is her own person and creates trends how she see's fit,

Pucci: Pucci meets hip-hop meets Africa. You have to leave it to Dundas for designing a collection that as always is sexy, sporty and full of jet-setting glamour. The heavyweight belts were a bit distracting as well as Julia Nobis and Hanelore, not that they aren't great models they just don't fit the Pucci aesthetic for me. Instead I want to see Victoria Secret type girls not filler. As with almost all high-end runway fashion brands I often wonder how the sell through is. Pucci has the brand history a company needs and are well known for their prints which I am sure still sell well. The runway looks always exude glamour the Pucci print money allows them to be known for for but I sadly can't imagine the majority of the runway collection are money makers since the styles are for a very specific model-esque elite. Plus they aren't well known for perfumes or bags which is how most brands seem to be funded nowadays. Regardless I loved the no make-up and tussled hair look. And another positive note as always Pucci makes a sexy shoe and this season was no different.

Roberto Cavalli: One thing can be said about Cavalli. He is consistent. I can't lie, usually something like Cavalli would go against all that I hold true to my design aesthetic. With most any other designer I would hate on such garish, flamboyant styles but for some reason I can't help but always get into it some Cavalli bling. This season like any other you know to expect sexy, boho-chic, animal print, embellishment, tassels, lace... you get the picture. This season was all about shine. As always you really need to get up close and personal with the garments to see the details and how intricate the pieces are. From afar it was a bit of a textured Tinman effect near the beginning of the show and then a lacy sea foam patchwork hippy section followed by a sharp turn into black and white. Those Muumuus however are something I can not get behind.

Versace: Leave it to Donatella and her hard rocker ways. This season had Versace going back to their rocker roots complete with concert T's, denim and chains. I wasn't feeling this collection as much as I have past seasons (S11, F010, F09, S09 I am looking at you) but as someone who is not the target market I can still see many pieces that the Versace girl and drag queen will love. Hello those shoes! I did like the use of the medusa head on the bags and when mixed with chains on several of the dresses. Also, Lindsey Wixson's hair in it's current state is not Versace worthy.