J.W.Anderson

Pre-Fall 14 part 3 by Mike Tyle

Soon enough will be time to work on Menswear FW14 and Couture S14!

As always check out my fave picks in Pinterest and leave me a comment on your thoughts on the collections as well!

Acne- Not many clothiers can recreate classic pieces in such quirky cool ways. leave it to the Swedish to do just that. This time featuring large proportions, shearling, neoprene, leather and silk. Hard to go wrong with that combination even better is the colorways full of watery teal, deep brown and creamy beige.

Alberta Ferretti-  A nautical theme with rich colors and textures. Lot's of flashes of bold hues mixed with deep neutrals... Much like the ocean. Beautiful luxury fabrics such as silk and fur embellished with gold wire embroideries for a naval effect. There was something different to this collection then what I have seen in the past from Ferretti and I like the direction it is going in.

Alexander McQueen- I was quite excited to see a designer play with tailors tack! I mean we see it often in the form of Margiela but in a whole different context. While the McQueen of Sarah Burton is no A.McQ to say the least I do think the more commercial direction she is leading the house in isn't a bad thing and the imagination has not been lost. Morphing of the menswear to more feminine evening wear starting with wool jackets and ending in rose embroidered taffeta dresses was the correct juxtaposition to keep the world of McQueen as we once knew it.

Armani- As much as I want to like Armani I just am not a fan. I will say this time wasn't a snooze-fest. Regardless I always bow at the fab. advertisements each season so Giorgio you still win. I was impressed with the fabrics used and the silhouettes while I find the designs always skew to a more 80's boxy influence I somehow got it this time. The color story was also on point. Some of the styling however caused me to side-eye what is happening over there in Milan.

Balenciaga- A strong collection for Wang full of technical fabrics and black & white. Both of which are becoming more and more synonymous as the typical Balenciaga x A.Wang mash-up. Not that I am complaining, it really seems to work well, creating interest and added value. You can also tell he hits those archives hard which can also be a good thing because with Balenciaga there is a long history of great work at the house which should be used and reinterpreted. Playing on volume and fabric mix has me hoping that the FW14 will be just as dramatic.

Balmain- I really liked it. Which is more or less a surprise as I have come to expect Balmain to bring Dynasty every season. Ok that was still there but mixed with safari which is something I always love. The colors were clean and just right. Khaki, hunter, navy with animal print thrown in... The fabrics were what one would expect for the highest price points imaginable. Lot's of leather, angora, metal embellished pieces. I hope this direction continues and am sure the customer base will grow as this incorporates a woman that isn't into clothes that are pure 80's sex.

Carven- I am always a Carven supporter. I love that the girl looks are growing up with the woman who wears them while still keeping the school girl charm. This season the collar really got my attention. Not only was it big but had just the right curve... Ok I am letting my designer brain get to me. Aside from that the berry tones and clean tartan checks used in mix with the bomber jackets, fisherman knits and twine closures added to the Carven look. I wasn't such a fan of the bib look that showed up in #22 but all in all the season was another winner for me.

Chloé- Pleasantly surprised. I understand Hannah MacGibbon hasn't been at the helm for a while but I am still always thankful that we have moved past those frumpy beige days. I really liked this season a lot better than last which was a bit too gypsy/handkerchief hem heavy for me. 

Christopher Kane- Bold colors, full skirts, fur, python print... it all worked really nicely. The collection had a classic approach but with nontraditional pieces that added something new to the mix, namely the wide curved straps that held it together or the chunky zippers. Then came the molecular science side of Kane which we have had glimpses of in the past and what seemed to have worked well. This time around I wasn't feeling it and with Men's FW14 carrying the theme further. I hope I won't get to sick of seeing the 3-D imagery as I am sure it will be heavily used in editorials the next few months.

Creatures of the Wind- Nice. Compared to past CotW collections it seemed more toned down but at the same time still quirky. A bit mod with a hint of hippie. Something perfect for an Anthro/Free People gal with even more dinero to spend on leather, silk and cashmere.

Dior- Wow, where has this been for all the other Dior by Raf shows... Finally the flowers are at a minimum, the Belgian look is showing up (where else would you see a New Look made out of a a MA jacket?) The fur coats with a shock of electric blue really drew my attention. I think the use of Dior in a new way this season really made me take notice and hope that this direction continues. The subtle use of the Dior look mixed with new ideas such as the take on leopard print, the he metallic checks or how the silk pieces meshed against tweed looks or the leather jacket.

Derek Lam- I loved the fabrics used chunky fur, mohair, velvet, bonded jersey, origami cuts.. but the cropped bell bottoms on the other hand... all in all it really goes to show the use of quality fabrics always deliver quite an impact and makes the price point justifiable.

Fausto Puglisi- Still with those damn rounded circle skirts... Loud, graphic and very Italian. Block contrast primary colors gave it a mod edge which I can always appreciate.

Fendi- Graphic, color blocked and furry as per usual. Karl Lagerfeld... Shade, no shade but if no one knew that you designed both Chanel and Fendi no body would believe it. As always I love Fendi and this season was no different. A nod to menswear this pre-fall with many modern layering pieces

Giambattista Valli- Brocade, fur, florals and leopard. Sounds familiar. While I found the direction for the pictures to mimc past lookbooks it didn't bother me. The camera angles gave movement to the garments as well as more interesting views of the styles.

Givenchy- Tribal meets tech. Modern with Bauhaus and Klee/Klimt influences yet full of fur, still with African influence and sequence reminiscent of SS14.

J.W. Anderson- Seemed a bit more wearable than previous seasons and def. more than the menswear. I appreciate the ascetic that Anderson tries with his clothing but at the same time it is obvious he is heavily influenced by Rei. The colors this season reminded me of Celine SS14 women's which was a hit so werk! 

Jonathan Saunders- Really impressed. I mean I am always impressed by Saunders but something about this collection drew me in. Very wearable and casual but with the right fabrics to make it still dressy. A definite menswear feel in a great color range of olive, salmon, black, white, ruby...

London Fashion Week S/S14 by Mike Tyle

Antonia Berardi: Sexy, sporty colors. Leopard (always in trend I suppose...) and crocodile prints. See through panels and color blocking. I'm not mad. Mullet hems though are still happening and not only here Fashion Weeks seem to not be able to shake it.

Burberry Prorsum: Pretty, pastel and reminiscent of the 50's. 3 things girls like. The plastic flowers looked cheap and I think the theme didn't need the extra boost from them. Otherwise this was an overtly feminine collection and the antithesis to the bright metallic looks we saw last S/S. I thought the coats looked really comfy and the striped/polka dot pieces were a nice contrast. The bejeweled editorial fodder was a nice way to end. The mens looks didn't really scream newness, mostly meh.

Christopher Kane: Spreading that Kering money all the way through 45 looks, Kane has yet again used unconventional ideas and materials to give us another science lesson. Highlights for me include the fabric that reminded me of metallic fiberglass insulation. I really liked the broaches and the little wires trims wrapped around the shoes, holding together the dresses and blazers. The sweaters with the cutout wording reminded me of Carven and the first several looks were just ok and the last couple a little too literal. Regardless making the other boys on the playground that is LFW jealous.

Erdem: This is not your normal Erdem show but a good step in a new direction. I really enjoyed the white and black contrast with the sublte flower motifs. A somber mood for Spring but it inspired me as opposed to boring me with the usual still always well done flower prints and lace that Erdem is known for. More in this new direction please! Praying the buyers come through and don't scare him back into a hole.

J.W.Anderson: He's always been experimental this time it seems to have become even more so than in past seasons, especially when it comes to his use of materials. I've been reading a lot of flack for his maybe too literal inspiration from other avant-garde designers but haters are gonna hate not many can get away with mixing such designs and keep it fresh and understandable enough for a commercialism price point, but then again leave that to pre-fall, resort and collaborations. It will be interesting to see if LVMH backing comes through, it could lead to some really great things.

Jonathan Saunders: A very early 90's look and also a departure from the work Saunders has done in the past. While it keeps with his bright color pallet mixed with deep jewel tones which are signature Saunders I found this collection to not be my favorite of his. Sorry. Either way he's still hot.

L'Wren Scott: Cultural appropriation much? Ain't nobody got time for that. The shoes were intense and the embroidery was well done though.

Marios Schwab: I little bit all over the place. There were a lot of nice pieces as per usual but mostly disconnect.

Mary Katrantzou: The silhouettes and construction of her clothes are top-notch and while the girl knows her way around a computer and a dizzying photo print. I want to see something new! Shoes are not doing it for me and I know that she has to have more up her sleeve. If she was able to do what she has done thus far then I know there is more to see. I will say while the shoe looks didn't do anything for me and the flowers were pretty but a bit been there done that I did find the cuts to be new and interesting. I just hope next seasons she wows us all again!

Matthew Williamson: clothing for the woman unafraid of color. I always enjoy seeing anything Matthew Williamson, it's hard not to be happy with all the bright colors and ethnic prints and embroideries. This season showed a more grown up look which is fine but sadly I have to say I just didn't like this collection. It looked dated. maybe it was the flowers and the jank dragonfly prints or the mumu's...

Michael van der Ham: I love a good fabric and pattern mix in this case those are two things that Michael van der Ham can do right. At first I wasn't sure this collection could hold up to the past seasons which I really liked but felt that much like with Mary the newness was missing. I think like many of his looks the whole and the parts are all worth taking in. His dresses have a different look from afar and when you take a look at the details you see a whole new dress.

Mulberry: In the past I've given a lot of side eye at Mulberry not because it was cray but mostly just found it well tailored and but meh... this season was a different story. I loved the Marimekko looking prints, leather, bold stripes shoes, bags...and naturally the bull dog. Basically if Tory Burch took this and mixed it with Michael van der Ham I might have liked her line this season, yes that was a read. Then again she runs a billion dollar company, guess I am the loser in that equation.

Paul Smith: I am thankful that Paul Smith makes menswear because I don't know where else I would get colorful Saville Row mixed with quirky details in one place. WIth that being said if I were a chic fun lesbian I would be set in clothing department! This season was typical Paul Smith bright colors, menswear inspired, mismatched buttons... the only things I was not into was the over exaggerated lapels and photo prints.

Peter Pilotto: Peter Pilotto the man of the hour and the latest to come out with a Target collab. Can not wait!! This season he is really giving Mary K a run for her money in the prints department, he seemed to be using his tricks yet again with mixing and matching prints and fabrics but as always it worked well and still seemed fresh and new. I liked the construction and even the mullet hemlines.

Preen: I want to say I've seen this already as the collection was typical Preen with the mix of flower photo prints and colorful blocks but I don't care I'm always for Preen. But I'm not here for that version of a betty rubble skirt that they kept sending out. On a side note look 23 I see you in your Spice Girls/ S Club 7 get up. Someone find some platform tennis shoes stat instead of those plastic kitten heels! The buckle trims used were interesting and gave a more industrial feeling to the looks but was also giving me some watered down C. Kane vibes.

Richard Nicoll: Very clean pallet. black, white and silver. herringbone, mod stripes and ankle boots. I thought it was easily wearable and nothing too crazy or over the top. Nice.

Roksanda Ilincic: Same ol' crazy Roksanda at it again! I was surprised how into it I was, the neoprene jackets and the 50's feel worked well. I liked the pops of color which make a Roksanda collection every time. As far as a 90's trend can be seen I am surprised this was the first time I've really noticed the pants with skirt trend, this needs to be brought back.

Simone Rocha: Art school mixed with money. Really interesting details, feminine but deconstructed. It reminded me of Comme des Garçons meets 80's madonna, work bitch!

Tom Ford: Those are some sexy clothes. The Tom of yesteryear is back! My only questions is who besides Beyonce and Rihanna will be wearing it?

Topshop Unique: 2nd half was better than the first, but I always have a hard time with Unique for Topshop. Possibly because it's Topshop and we all know the quality there is lagging. I understand this is a bit higher price point but still... aside from that I found the collection ok. I am not sure about the green twill coats if it were a lighter color I think I would have been more behind it. The beach theme with the 90's hair was easy for S/S. The Moroccan tile print was a nice link to hold it all together, plus you can never go wrong with Moroccan tiles.