Margiela

Menswear SS17- Part 2 by Mike Tyle

As not to overwhelm here is a continuation from my last post featuring another set of reviews to my fave Menswear designers this season.

Dries Van Noten

Every season I am astounded. His collections bring sophistication to the masses. Always bringing fans on a journey to another time and place. Normally I am not a print kinda guy but when it comes out of het Modepaleis I know it will be something I need in my closet. This season is no different the collection moves effortlessly from cream, soft whites and punches of metallic silver intermixing with macrame and patch work reminiscent of the arts & crafts movement of the 70's intermixing. Then medieval tapestry prints and camouflage. Ending in loose draped indigo fabric looks. Wow. Basically,  Scotch & Soda will be knocking this off in...

 

 

 

 

DSquared2

I found the Ziggy platforms to be a bit distracting but I know the Caden twins always have something tongue-and-cheek to offset their designs but also show that gender-fuck can be mainstream! DSquared2 always love a good theme and I am right there with them! They can make anything be over the top yet still masculine enough that a fashionable guy would want in their closet regardless, ok maybe the sequined camo parka is pushing it... This SS the theme was skinhead which has been done by numerous designers over the season and I've always been a fan of the outcome. This time around Dean & Dan added a bit of an overtly homo-dandy twist to make it their own.

 

 

 

 

Gucci

The imagination of Alessandro Michele is unique in that he can take so many different ideas jumble them up and create something new out of it. Always exciting and intriguing this season is no different. There are so many elements at play you don't know where to look first!  Now to say fishermen, Dynasty China & Donald Duck don't mix hasn't seen the Edwardian preppy dandy boys of Gucci under Alessandro!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Maison Margiela

Quintessential imperfectly perfect Margiela delivered as always. Why do something dramatic when you have a wining combo every time? Paper fabrics mix with fluid fabrics, unfinished garments and tailors tacking galore left me feeling happy.

Niel Barrett

Sports references were still heavily referenced, and do well for the brand. Instead of the army green, black & white palette we have become used to has now branched out into more 70's brown tones with red-orange and yellow highlights used in diagonal inserts and modern graphics. Also something we haven't seen much in past seasons is his use of denim. I've always been a fan of his work but I like this toned down grown-up direction more than the use of broken-up statues artworks of past seasons. I especially love some of the leather pieces with symmetrical inserts on the sleeves and breasts.

Prada

Nylon. The fabric that started Prada. Season after season reinventing the label only this time using the founding fabric to create yet another utilitarian look. This Prada man is ready to wander. Weather it be trekking across countries or from work to the gym the look is apparent. Athleisure is king and peoples attitudes towards relaxed dressing has long been the norm. So why not pair breathable nylon with a suit coat, leggings, socks & sandals. Bright colors, weather maps and some cute conversational prints added for good measure. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Raf Simons

In collaboration with the Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation images adorn each outfit with the over all look of each model sent out as an homage to the great photographer. Whether a still life, Patti Smith or a semi-hard dick with a cock ring the pictures framed, printed, cut & sewn to the items brought to life the works of a great photographer and melded perfectly with the oversize garments and added another layer to the thinking man's wardrobe.

Top Resort '15 review by Mike Tyle

Can we first talk about how many lookbooks Bo Don got this season... was not expecting it but get that money girl!

Before I get on to my (possibly tipsy) Twitter style reviews of the shows... Here you can see all the looks that I liked the most.

Now... onto some shade/no shade.

3.1 Philip Lim: Sixities theme. Safe. Nice colorways. Those pants in look 23... questionable.

Acne: Oversize and quirky. check and check. Both things Acne knows how to do best. Wasn't feeling the bamboo closures.

Akris: Distracting Greek(?) street background. A lot of chic yet German looking casual wear.

Alexander McQueen: Look #3 gave me SS15 menswear vibes, which is a nice pairing. Seemed more McQ to me in that it was pretty wearable for a normal McQueen look book. I'm not a big flower fan near the end... but loving all of the outerwear made up for it!

Alexander Wang: Look #1 was a lot of look to start off with. I do like the idea of incorporating workwear elements which Wang is always keen to do. Wasn't my fave from him but he's busy.

Altuzarra: As always anything Joseph Altuzarra does I am a fan of. The man knows how to make an A-line skirt and baggy blouse work. His corporate chic meets boho-gypsy designs get me every time.

BCBG Max Azria: Anytime there is a windblown look happening it gets a pass... in this case the whole collection was done on a beach. Naturally I had a lot of favorites... call me a basic mall bitch if you will.

Balenciaga: Still working the colorblind look. Luckily there are some sharp silhouettes to match. Wang had me until the asymmetrical hems came out. But again... he's busy between H&M, T and sharing the fabrics with his eponymous line.

Balmain: Binx does Dynasty with a dash of Kim K. Bebe will be all over this.

Bottega Veneta: Doing what a Resort collection was created to do... sell. I really enjoyed the batik direction the 2nd half went into.

Burberry Prorsum: I always look forward to the Burberry look books! They are well photographed and the clothes tell a story. As always everything was nice but I felt the story being told was, well, nothing new.  I mean, ugh, dip-dye? Still going strong I see. The fabrics and looks seemed just like remixes to familiar styles... trench-update aside.

Calvin Klein Collection: I love me some CK collection. That first coat on Ewers was EVERYTHING. Always innovative fabrics and thankfully finally back in a modern clean streamlined silhouette. I am still having nightmares about Pre-Fall 14...

Carven: Sporty yet girly with innovative fabric mix come to me! Gone is the dirndl-esque girl of yesteryear, far from a hater here, but a new more confident woman has emerged. I could have done without the logo but it was still more tastefully done than Wang SS14.

Chanel: I want to say it was bait racist... but I am sure the middle east will eat this collection up and Chanel will have made their quarter profit on the first day it hits stores.

Christopher Kane: I am on the fence. I think a lot can be done with the styles as separates... I really liked all the stories told and while all different went well together. I would personally nix the cheap looking flower pins/buttons. But Kane always needs a little something quirky to show off.

DKNY: I get it. Baseball caps are a look. But 27 of them?

Derek Lam: It worked for Philip Lim. It seems the 60's are an inspiration all around. Keep at it because it works well.

DVF: I can't. Wendy Williams can wear it well but I didn't find anything new here.

Diesel Black Gold: Saint Laurent meets Sandro.

DSquared2: Fierce. Leave it to the twins to bring to life another campy theme. As always 60 & 70's were prevalent and as always I wanted more.

Erdem: The things you can do with lace, flowers and ruffles. In this case it wasn't the usual Erdem affair but one breaking away from the frilly older women and into a more trend-driven playful girl. Gave me F13 Erdem vibes and I am happy to see a revival.

Fendi: Mesh, pop graphics and of course a bit of fur. Binx rocked these Eurocentric looks and the Logo splashed across the items surprisingly added to the fun.

Gucci: following a 60's Mod inspired F14 comes a resort of the same ilk. The only issue I find is in the fact that many looks could also have come out of a J.Crew catalog.

Herve Leger: Pure Sex. Balmain meets Versace and a high-end better manufactured Bebe was born.

Hugo Boss: I am obsessed with Jason Wu's take on the Hugo Boss woman. Clean, chic, modern still very Hugo Boss but with a twist. I look forward to seeing what the next seasons will provide.

Jason Wu: Neutral palette and clean looks. It was feeling a bit in the direction of Boss wich is a good thing in this case.

Jil Sander: I don't know a time when I haven't found something to love about a Jil Sander collection (the same goes for the Navy line) this case it was no different, bell shapes and monochrome colors. Looks like the new Head of Design is a better fit than expected.

Jonathan Saunders: More of this please. Great individual pieces in color block and interesting prints. Basically what one should expect from a Jonathan Saunders collection. Gold, beige, sliver, bright blues... stripes and lamé fabrics gave the 70's feel Saunders is known for.

Josh Groot: Not yet a household name and came a bit out of left fieId but the clean simple modern lines, black and while minimalism got to me.... basically I was LOVING everything.

Kenzo: Was having some F09/S13 LV feelings. Maybe not so much the bunny and mod themes but never the less some of the fabrics and silhouettes went there. As always I expect Leon & Lim to know the direction they want to take us in and know it well. This season was just as bright and graphic as ever. Yet again cementing their way as fan faves.

Lanvin: Nice Lanvin fodder. But I'm mostly here for Jamie Bochert. Throw in some thin scarves in place of heavy jewelry Lanvin is known for and you have Lanvin collection as expected full of high end fabrics and silhouettes to match. 

Louis Vuitton: F14 rehash with more embellishments and spring colors. Enjoyed the innovative fabrics.

MSGM: Keep doing what you are doing. It's working. Graphic, girly yet modern. 

Margiela: Simple- I. Want. Everything.

Marc Jacobs: Mess. Next. 

Marc by Marc: Better than the main line. Also prob more sellable than Bartley & Hilliers first soldier themed (yet v. cool) showing.

Marni: This and very season of Marni need much more publicity. For such a storied fashion house which a specific aesthetic it seriously grows and gets better every fucking season. WORK!!!

Mary Katrantzou: YES. I am so glad she isn't a one trick pony. I am always ALWAYS wondering what she will pull next. She knows what works and how to push it in the next direction. As far as Resort goes this could easily have been a full FW/SS styled collection. 

Miu Miu: Daphnie from Scooby Doo want's her clothes back. If it is one thing that Miu Miu knows how to do it's bringing 60's back every season and making it just as new and cool as always.

Mugler: David Korma for Mugler just makes sense.

Nina Ricci: The only difference between any Nina Ricci collection is basically that since S10 it hasn't been designed by Theyskens. Otherwise just as French and feminine as always.

No. 21: Yet another diffusion line getting it better than the main brand. This seasons No. 21 brought the Italian flair and newness I always expect from them. Wish I could see every girl wearing these clothes.

Peter Pilotto: As always there is A LOT happening. The photos are jarring but as all Pilotto designs look wonderful in real life.

Prabal Gurung: Bold color blocking and graphic paint strokes, but not in the vain of Celine. Always a fan just next time no Lurex please.

Preen: I really don't know which line to review since they are both separate but equal in my eyes. Both showed sport directions with bold colors and fabric mix with the Preen stipe in place. Biggest qualm for me was the cheap looking denim print. Never again. I beg of the two of you.

Proenza Schouler: Bam! Proenza graphics and sharp silhouettes one expects; while theres nothing new  it's all perfect.

Public School; More and more the design duo's line is being talked about and this collection of evolved basics explains why.

Rag & Bone: Effortlessly cool. From the background to the styles themselves. Basically this is how casual should be done. Point blank chic.

Roksanda Ilincic: Work those color block statements! A very impressive collection this season. Zglad to see Roksanda growing into a well-rounded yet distinct look.

Stella McCartney: Fun & serious. 2 things the Stella customer looks for. I personally liked the first 10 looks (strong silhouettes) and the last 10 looks (full on bold stripes and paisley).

Suno: wasn't feeling it these season.

Thakoon: What can I say I always find Thakoon enjoyable but I also think it's always at risk of becoming a Zara collection that costs more and has better fabrics.

The Row: I don't want to say they are taking notes from Margiela but the fabrics the design aesthetic and the silhouette are putting the Twins at the same level.

Thom Browne: Crazy show is crazy. The aftermath that will actually make it to stores will be crave-worthy. Who knew prep and florals could work. I mean it's overloaded to the max but it's Thom Browne. Somehow the end product always makes sense.

Tory Burch: The things this woman could make me like... In general I am not a fan but when I see the look books and catwalk shows every season it make me understand why she is banking so much. Think Anthro and Banana Republic had a baby.

Valentino: Unlike when Chanel does 90 looks for a resort collection I am ALWAYS excited to go through Valentino's creations. I could have done without the butterfly cammo they are still trying to make happen but everything else was perfection. What other brand can meld the medieval looks they churn out every seasons with 60's style mod dresses?! I especially loved the crazy block graphics and of course the leather laser cut lace. Which is saying a lot since not many people besides Prada F08 can make me feel that way about lace.

Vionnet: Dragonfly print was a cool idea.

Pre-Fall 14 part 4 by Mike Tyle

With this 3rd & 4th installments I again found it really difficult when choosing one of my fave looks to show (ehm Valentino...). Nevertheless there were some great Pre-Fall collections and I am excited to see how they will do in stores as well as give direction to the comming FW14 season.

Lanvin- Classic Lanvin.

Louis Vuitton- Well done considering it was made between creative directors coming and going. But there were times I felt like I was looking at 2 very different collections. The first half was very LV/artsy the 2nd half was commercial as could be. While it may have been a jarring change in scenery and style the LV women was still obvious and the fabrics and cuts proved it.

Marni- It's hard for me not to like a Marni collection. This season was no different. I loved just about every look. There isn't much to say in terms of direction. Compared to SS14 this was more in a usual Marni fashion which was not broing in the least. Still playing with oversize silhouette, great furs and wool and lovely shoes. It had a bit or a MiuMiu feeling in several looks which I a not complaining about in the least. All in all print and fabric direction were what I except them to be... great!

Margiela- It's Margiela. You never know what to expect but as always I was excited to see what the team would come up with this time reinventing everyday wardrobe pieces into something so different yet so right. A subdued palette of grey, navy and black mixed with menswear styles. Oversize was the theme this season and it worked perfectly in terms of big cardigans, men's shirts with large sleeves, folded over men's pants moving into draped shift dresses and fur. Really you can't go wrong.

Matthew Williamson- Femine and bright colors, what more can one ask for from a Matthew Williamson pre-fall collection.

MaxMara- I got major Derek Lam vibes from this collection. Very clean and modern yet something about it was tired. Maybe because it skewed a bit old? the colors? One thing for sure, like Lam, wide-leg floods are not helping anyone.

No. 21- I find No.21 to be superior to big brother Alessandro Dell’Acqua. The right amount of wear-ability but still a little something that makes the customer know that the garment is special. This season I felt though that the over-all effect was a bit too close to a high end J.Crew. Maybe it was the military colors and sequence.

Nina Ricci- Work! As always the Ricci girl is ambiguous for being both girly and flirty yet sexy and seducing. this collection was no different. Keep that money coming!

Preen- I usually love Preen. Prints, colors, silhouette always on point. While there were several looks that I really liked and I also enjoyed the deep blueish pruple and pumpkin orange colors I found the bird theme could have been done in a much less gimmicky way. Also the writing on the jackets was not cute.

Pucci- I picture the Pucci girl skiing... Pucci girls don't ski but they do go to the Alps. That is where I picture this girl suited up and printed out. Bright fuschia, teal and ethnic prints to really stand out from the snow.

Ralph Lauren- Pure American Ralph. This is one of the best collections I have seen from RL in a long time, while the Ralph Lauren girl always stays true to clean sophisticated American sportswear. This time around there were no gimmicks or obvious themes aside form unpretentiously pretentious Upper-West Side women. Clean cashmere, jersey, silk, fur in tones of grey and beige shows that you don't need much to make something perfect. Classic.

Roberto Cavalli- Exactly what one would expect from a Cavalli line. Full of metallic, beading, embroidery and most importantly animal print! Italian in every way but as quick as this could look cheap I somehow always love it. I know I don't understand it either...

Roksanda IIincic- Very grown-up compared to other collection. I don't mean to say that the prior seasons were juvenile I just feel that the collection has the clear direction I have been searching for. This season the mix of bonded wool and the felt with scultpural silhouettes in bold colors was it.

Roland Mouret- I found the photography and model designer distracting. I get the idea was to show how everyday glamorous the collection could be but sadly I was too distracted by the lighting and surroundings to notice the garments which is a pity as Mouret is known for a great clean cut and red carpet ready looks. Good thing award season is upon us and I can see the dresses soon.

The Row- Modern, classic, conventional and yet so different from anything we are seeing. The Olsens have really brought forth another great collection of everyday basics but with luxury fabrics that eschew constantly changing themes instead showing whole other thought process to the way these pieces are worn. So constrained and meticulous yet easy.

Sonia Rykiel- The clothes looked comfy but I don't know if it was the angles or the model but she looked short and frumpy in a couple shots. I really liked how the print dresses ran off at the bottom though. Really shows design in the details which is always important.

Stella McCartney- Just when you think polka dots are done.... If there is one thing the Stella girl can do it is to make a masculine style feminine and sexy. Mixing dots, herringbone and line drawn people with boxy cuts brought together the line. The shoes, as always, were perfect.

Thom Browne- A new type of camouflage and the idea of men's preppy striped ties were the direction of this season over at Browne. Naturally the color palette wasn't without the typical red, white and blue which were put to use on the zany, yet satirically challenging pieces. One thing about Thome brown is, even if it isn't your style, the work that goes into his clothes are unprecedented in the American market. Full of detail and interesting fabrics. I am always intrigued as to what he will come up with next. Pre-Fall was a bit less theatrical and more wearable than his usual runway shows but none-the-less full of really great tweed, fur, jacquard and chunky knit pieces.

Valentino- Love. Ok, get the first thing out of the way... that many look is not Pre-Fall friendly or necessary. However when you have such a strong design lead and look it is hard not to make great ideas come to life. Unlike with D&G while it may be reoccurring it is also evolving and in a direction that keeps me excited to see what will come next. Capes and animal motifs, muted tones of moss green, grown and black with a dash of feathers in the right places. The geometric mink patterned coat? I died.

Paris Fashion Week S/S14 by Mike Tyle

Acne: Nautical is always a timeless theme.

Ann Demeulemeester: a great fresh look to a designer who knows her stuff. I really loved seeing the great red color as well as the graphic designs and stripes paired with billowy pants and shrunken jackets. Of course shoes and accessories were perfect as to be expected.

Anthony Vaccarello: Denim was a take on Marant, the peak-a-boo straps Donatella, the pointy skirts reminded me of loin clothes but the mesh and military buttons were appreciated. I find his clothing a bit tired and trying really hard to be sexy but just looking like bluntly cut miniskirts and not necessarily items that will transfer well in real life.

Akris: Oh, Akris too commercial for you own good. I mean, well yes probably really good for you since that makes money but showing a gazillion colorways on the runway and missing the newness that one expects from high-end I was bored after only a couple looks.

Alexander McQueen: I have to say I really enjoyed this season! I am always impressed with the amount of work that goes into making manly of these only for runway theatrical McQueen items every season but yet this time around it somehow rang more true to the McQueen aesthetic as opposed to past collections which were missing something. Who knew that cavalierly and African tribal themes could match up so well.

Balenciaga: not my favorite from Wang. I thought his first collection really came out surprising me but this time it just didn't capture what I was looking for in the Balenciaga aesthetic..

Balmain: Rousteing loves himself some 80's Versace. I have to say I am happy to see a more pared down look less jewel encrusted heavy 80's Dynasty, but... I guess in a way it's still a homage to the house itself perhaps under OdlR but when I think what Balmain could show I think about Balmain the man and the founding of the house. But also times change and if this is selling then make them euros! But then again the company make over 50% cash in licensing... but then again what house doesn't anymore.

Carven: Not feeling it. I love Carven, I love cammo, I love 90's, I love structural garments. But not here. The mix was just too much or too literal... There may have been pieces I can get behind but the overall look was dated looking and not the quirky cute Carven I've grown to love. The flower appliqués on the shoulders were sweet touches but the chunky boarder belt around the waist was too prominent. The full on flower looks however were a  bit 80's drapes and I'm not here for that. The chokers and platforms were giving me Clueless vibes, which after this season are giving me more NYFW vibes than anything else.

Céline: The first look made me look twice. This is Céline? But then as one gradually sees look by look it all comes together and yes it is Céline. At least this is Celine's modern minimalist take on 90's patterns and colorways with an East-London and slight African influence. I want to go on the adventure these clothes are destined for!

Chloé: I like the idea of easy dressing for summer. Light, airy fabrics . But handkerchief hems are the devil in my book. Not only dated but just ugly and never look right in real life. Sadly several styles had them and hopefully the buyers feel the same way and the patterns get fixed before production because otherwise...

Chanel: 90 looks... enough said. Ain't nobody got time for that. I mean I GET that it is Chanel but... editing can be your friend.

Dior: I want to like the whole new wave feeling and I understand Raf has a new customer that isn't necessarily the Jil Sander consumer but his take on classic styles is missing something. Maybe it is just that there is too much happening... I mean with 76 looks there are a lot of stories going on. I liked the colors and cut outs mixed with asymmetrical pleating (Hello Issey Miyake, seems this season has been good for you). Less a fan of the wording and the flowers we have seen a couple seasons now. The badges were a bit lame as well. Ending with the metallic styles I though was cool though.

Dries van Noten: Great fabric mix as per usual. Full of pleating and ruffles with a gold splash for color added to the burgundy, blacks and off white. Liked the shoes and accessories naturally.

Giambattista Valli: Pretty. Valli always has something for a girls girl but this time a turn in a different direction. I look forward to seeing how this evolves.

Givenchy: I really like the direction this collection went in this season. Even though there have been many clean looks throughout the past this time a cozy feeling was there that isn't something I would put with Givenchy. Maybe it was the copious amount of draped jersey or the charcoal and tobacco orange, leather and sequence which went beautifully with the Madame Grès technique mixed with African influences ( a reoccurring theme this Paris season it seams) and Japanese kimono silhouettes. A worldly collection that didn't seem overkill.

Haider Ackermann: For being a traditional Ackermann filled elongated draped menswear collection I found it also to be very feminine. Gold accents, see-through tulle and silk and many dresses under suit jackets and over metallic pants. Don't mind if I do.

Hermes: Chic simplicity, leathers and scarf prints. All things Hermes has perfected. This season showed us set again what Hermes is capable of and how even with more conservative restriction there is so much in design one can do. I wasn't as much of a fan of the tropical prints, at least not as a boot, but I enjoyed many of the looks fine details that are there without being garish but instead bring the garment to a higher level.

Hussein Chalayan: Not many people can live up to the designs of Chalayan. Every seasons leaves something to inspire to. The few pastel tropical prints were giving me Golden Girl vibes which isn't always a bad thing.

Isabel Marant: On a high with the pending H&M collection it was also important to make sure that the two collections didn't cross paths while still staying true to the casual Parisian chic Marant aesthetic which girls all over love. I wasn't in love with this collection as much as I had excpeted. It seemed nice... very much in the lines of Zadig et Voltaire in terms of styling but less rock and more Victorian in contruction (i.e. jacekts and blouses) with girly vibes seen with plenty of tulle layers and clean white looks matched with leather pants

John Galliano: Technical fabrics and rather clean looks not what I was excpetcting but pleasantly surprised. Cool cut outs. Yet also something very old school about it.

Kenzo: at first I was meh and then I was ohh and by the end I loved it all... for the most part. the shoes were a bit strange, the front bed looked robotic and I am sure trip-worthy plus that metal cage in the back better be sturdy! Now on to the looks... The first few screamed Acne to me and I felt there was a general high amount of Proenza Schouler redux going on. But I am not hating on it. I loved the prints but then again I wouldn't expect anything less from Kenzo. The wavy hemlines of the shirts were quite cool and I can assure you NOT easy to get in production. But in general with all things Kenzo more power to you I love you like always.

Lanvin: Yup. Awesome. I mean it's shiny. What's not to love. Also I was getting a Golden Girls vibe which again.. what's not to love. I wasn't feeling the carryover of the big jewlery and graphic T's, but if it's selling work it!

Louis Vuitton: Really Marc you wait this long to show denim? As with any Marc Jacobs collection I get it and love it but then at the same time I am abhorredI saw several looks that were reminiscent to past seasons with a lot of show girl thrown on top. Which in a way is quite appropriate for a lasting impression on the brand. The runway itself was spectacular and a great retrospective to many past creations.

Maison Martin Margiela: Margiela doesn't need gimmicks what they do making you think differently about basics is enough of a look on it's own. That is why I found this collection difficult. As much as I loved the tailoring which I expect from MMM there were looks that just didn't mesh in the opposites attract Margiela way. Maybe after the 2nd go through it will hit me and love it all...

Ok, did a re-look and yes it is awesome!

Miu Miu: Coats! Muccia has done it again, this seasons take on the ever loved swinging 60's vibe Miu Miu is known for had many bold colors be it bright red or sea foam green. From school girl to beaded show girl, Prada showed extremes. Also in fabric mix with wool A-line skirts and fur and vinyl mixed coats. Patent leather purses and of course socks with chunks heels.

Moncler Gamme Rouge: Valli redux. At first I thought this is the perfect mix between showing off what the designer is known for and mixing it with the tech take of Moncler. Unlike his past Moncler shows this was strictly runway and well if you know what Moncler runways have been in the past no more word necessary. By the end though I thought the line was a little too reminiscent of his own work. It reminded me of the M.J./L.V. issue.

Nina Ricci: What one would except from Nina Ricci. Feminine, delicate, lace and lingerie styles. Satin, flowers and gauzy off white, grey and bright blues sometimes clashed but when the theme is pretty it all seems to work in the end. I have to say this is one of the few lines where I can see the costumer not buying just the fragrances and accessories but actual garments as well.

Rick Owens: What fashion shows are all about. Surprising the audience and if anyone did that this season it was Rick Owens. Not only did the awesome step dancers do their thing but it was perfectly fitting with the hard edge of Owens leather he is famous for. If there is a woman I want to see wearing these clothes it's one who has power.

Click here for the video that is what awesomeness is all about.

Rochas: Rochas much like Marni is always one to show a timelessness eclectic women in a  way not many designers can get away with. This time was no different mixing 50's housewife with carnival beads and satin, velvet, lame fabrics for quite the experience. If there is anyone deserving of a Schiaparelli title look no further.

Roland Mouret: Very 80's synth feeling. bright colors and color blocking. Sadly seemed a bit cheap but funny enough that probably sells well! The silhouette he's known for was still there and I am sure many a pop-star and actress will get use out of these dresses on the red carpet but compared to several other Paris shows this year this didn't match up to me.

Sacai: I love mesh, what's not to love about it! But on the other hand argyle is... ugh, I just can't. Needless to say I was back and forth with this collection. The primary color range and sporty materials mixed with more evening wear looks were fun. I liked the fabric mix and experimentation which with Sacai is always enjoyable. The jacket silhouettes were really nice and worked well with the menswear style shirting

Saint Laurent: High fashion hipster. As always with (Y)SL under Slimane, I take it with a grain of salt. After reading the reviews and first go through I though pricey F21 now I look at it and see the fabrics and techniques and think Zara will have a field day but the outcome will never be the real thing. I think this new direction for the label obviously has that rocker vibe Heidi is known for and apparently is selling $$$. It might not be Yves at the fore front but then again look at what Balmain once was compared to now.

Sonia Rykiel: Ok I know I said I hate argyle 2 reviews above... well I take it back. But only in this instance. Maybe because it isn't your typical argyle. Mix that with metallic threaded knitwear and fur and you have me. Some of the pastel colorways I could have done without though. I think sometimes it takes going back to the beginning to make something fresh and new again. Here we see the Parisian chic of the 70s Rykiel revived.

Stella McCartney: I know everyone loved the lace dresses but they just weren't doing it for me, the other looks however I really enjoyed, very 90's contemporary. Shoes and sunglasses were on point, but that is to be expected with Stella.

Undercover: Not a fan of the wording pieces but mostly because I think Viktor and Rolf did it better way back when. The wigs reminded me of YSL F/W08 and the cuts of the asymmetrical styles were a bit Givenchy. But I think the neo-punk thing works well. The LED light thing was a bit gimmicky as well, I just can't see it translating well to everyday...

Valentino: I was getting some D&G vibes with the reoccurring theme. Ok not that bad... but there is some overlap but with 70-some styles but that it to be expected... There is though an evolution of the Valentino woman happening only it's far from the days of Valentino and his vibrant red hit the runway. Now a more conservative toned down but still beautiful woman being represented. Very renaissance era in regard to materials and silhouette but with native embroidery, bright colors and hippie leather fringe and astrology gold jewelry thrown in for good measure.