Matthew Williamson

Pre-Fall 14 part 4 by Mike Tyle

With this 3rd & 4th installments I again found it really difficult when choosing one of my fave looks to show (ehm Valentino...). Nevertheless there were some great Pre-Fall collections and I am excited to see how they will do in stores as well as give direction to the comming FW14 season.

Lanvin- Classic Lanvin.

Louis Vuitton- Well done considering it was made between creative directors coming and going. But there were times I felt like I was looking at 2 very different collections. The first half was very LV/artsy the 2nd half was commercial as could be. While it may have been a jarring change in scenery and style the LV women was still obvious and the fabrics and cuts proved it.

Marni- It's hard for me not to like a Marni collection. This season was no different. I loved just about every look. There isn't much to say in terms of direction. Compared to SS14 this was more in a usual Marni fashion which was not broing in the least. Still playing with oversize silhouette, great furs and wool and lovely shoes. It had a bit or a MiuMiu feeling in several looks which I a not complaining about in the least. All in all print and fabric direction were what I except them to be... great!

Margiela- It's Margiela. You never know what to expect but as always I was excited to see what the team would come up with this time reinventing everyday wardrobe pieces into something so different yet so right. A subdued palette of grey, navy and black mixed with menswear styles. Oversize was the theme this season and it worked perfectly in terms of big cardigans, men's shirts with large sleeves, folded over men's pants moving into draped shift dresses and fur. Really you can't go wrong.

Matthew Williamson- Femine and bright colors, what more can one ask for from a Matthew Williamson pre-fall collection.

MaxMara- I got major Derek Lam vibes from this collection. Very clean and modern yet something about it was tired. Maybe because it skewed a bit old? the colors? One thing for sure, like Lam, wide-leg floods are not helping anyone.

No. 21- I find No.21 to be superior to big brother Alessandro Dell’Acqua. The right amount of wear-ability but still a little something that makes the customer know that the garment is special. This season I felt though that the over-all effect was a bit too close to a high end J.Crew. Maybe it was the military colors and sequence.

Nina Ricci- Work! As always the Ricci girl is ambiguous for being both girly and flirty yet sexy and seducing. this collection was no different. Keep that money coming!

Preen- I usually love Preen. Prints, colors, silhouette always on point. While there were several looks that I really liked and I also enjoyed the deep blueish pruple and pumpkin orange colors I found the bird theme could have been done in a much less gimmicky way. Also the writing on the jackets was not cute.

Pucci- I picture the Pucci girl skiing... Pucci girls don't ski but they do go to the Alps. That is where I picture this girl suited up and printed out. Bright fuschia, teal and ethnic prints to really stand out from the snow.

Ralph Lauren- Pure American Ralph. This is one of the best collections I have seen from RL in a long time, while the Ralph Lauren girl always stays true to clean sophisticated American sportswear. This time around there were no gimmicks or obvious themes aside form unpretentiously pretentious Upper-West Side women. Clean cashmere, jersey, silk, fur in tones of grey and beige shows that you don't need much to make something perfect. Classic.

Roberto Cavalli- Exactly what one would expect from a Cavalli line. Full of metallic, beading, embroidery and most importantly animal print! Italian in every way but as quick as this could look cheap I somehow always love it. I know I don't understand it either...

Roksanda IIincic- Very grown-up compared to other collection. I don't mean to say that the prior seasons were juvenile I just feel that the collection has the clear direction I have been searching for. This season the mix of bonded wool and the felt with scultpural silhouettes in bold colors was it.

Roland Mouret- I found the photography and model designer distracting. I get the idea was to show how everyday glamorous the collection could be but sadly I was too distracted by the lighting and surroundings to notice the garments which is a pity as Mouret is known for a great clean cut and red carpet ready looks. Good thing award season is upon us and I can see the dresses soon.

The Row- Modern, classic, conventional and yet so different from anything we are seeing. The Olsens have really brought forth another great collection of everyday basics but with luxury fabrics that eschew constantly changing themes instead showing whole other thought process to the way these pieces are worn. So constrained and meticulous yet easy.

Sonia Rykiel- The clothes looked comfy but I don't know if it was the angles or the model but she looked short and frumpy in a couple shots. I really liked how the print dresses ran off at the bottom though. Really shows design in the details which is always important.

Stella McCartney- Just when you think polka dots are done.... If there is one thing the Stella girl can do it is to make a masculine style feminine and sexy. Mixing dots, herringbone and line drawn people with boxy cuts brought together the line. The shoes, as always, were perfect.

Thom Browne- A new type of camouflage and the idea of men's preppy striped ties were the direction of this season over at Browne. Naturally the color palette wasn't without the typical red, white and blue which were put to use on the zany, yet satirically challenging pieces. One thing about Thome brown is, even if it isn't your style, the work that goes into his clothes are unprecedented in the American market. Full of detail and interesting fabrics. I am always intrigued as to what he will come up with next. Pre-Fall was a bit less theatrical and more wearable than his usual runway shows but none-the-less full of really great tweed, fur, jacquard and chunky knit pieces.

Valentino- Love. Ok, get the first thing out of the way... that many look is not Pre-Fall friendly or necessary. However when you have such a strong design lead and look it is hard not to make great ideas come to life. Unlike with D&G while it may be reoccurring it is also evolving and in a direction that keeps me excited to see what will come next. Capes and animal motifs, muted tones of moss green, grown and black with a dash of feathers in the right places. The geometric mink patterned coat? I died.

London Fashion Week S/S14 by Mike Tyle

Antonia Berardi: Sexy, sporty colors. Leopard (always in trend I suppose...) and crocodile prints. See through panels and color blocking. I'm not mad. Mullet hems though are still happening and not only here Fashion Weeks seem to not be able to shake it.

Burberry Prorsum: Pretty, pastel and reminiscent of the 50's. 3 things girls like. The plastic flowers looked cheap and I think the theme didn't need the extra boost from them. Otherwise this was an overtly feminine collection and the antithesis to the bright metallic looks we saw last S/S. I thought the coats looked really comfy and the striped/polka dot pieces were a nice contrast. The bejeweled editorial fodder was a nice way to end. The mens looks didn't really scream newness, mostly meh.

Christopher Kane: Spreading that Kering money all the way through 45 looks, Kane has yet again used unconventional ideas and materials to give us another science lesson. Highlights for me include the fabric that reminded me of metallic fiberglass insulation. I really liked the broaches and the little wires trims wrapped around the shoes, holding together the dresses and blazers. The sweaters with the cutout wording reminded me of Carven and the first several looks were just ok and the last couple a little too literal. Regardless making the other boys on the playground that is LFW jealous.

Erdem: This is not your normal Erdem show but a good step in a new direction. I really enjoyed the white and black contrast with the sublte flower motifs. A somber mood for Spring but it inspired me as opposed to boring me with the usual still always well done flower prints and lace that Erdem is known for. More in this new direction please! Praying the buyers come through and don't scare him back into a hole.

J.W.Anderson: He's always been experimental this time it seems to have become even more so than in past seasons, especially when it comes to his use of materials. I've been reading a lot of flack for his maybe too literal inspiration from other avant-garde designers but haters are gonna hate not many can get away with mixing such designs and keep it fresh and understandable enough for a commercialism price point, but then again leave that to pre-fall, resort and collaborations. It will be interesting to see if LVMH backing comes through, it could lead to some really great things.

Jonathan Saunders: A very early 90's look and also a departure from the work Saunders has done in the past. While it keeps with his bright color pallet mixed with deep jewel tones which are signature Saunders I found this collection to not be my favorite of his. Sorry. Either way he's still hot.

L'Wren Scott: Cultural appropriation much? Ain't nobody got time for that. The shoes were intense and the embroidery was well done though.

Marios Schwab: I little bit all over the place. There were a lot of nice pieces as per usual but mostly disconnect.

Mary Katrantzou: The silhouettes and construction of her clothes are top-notch and while the girl knows her way around a computer and a dizzying photo print. I want to see something new! Shoes are not doing it for me and I know that she has to have more up her sleeve. If she was able to do what she has done thus far then I know there is more to see. I will say while the shoe looks didn't do anything for me and the flowers were pretty but a bit been there done that I did find the cuts to be new and interesting. I just hope next seasons she wows us all again!

Matthew Williamson: clothing for the woman unafraid of color. I always enjoy seeing anything Matthew Williamson, it's hard not to be happy with all the bright colors and ethnic prints and embroideries. This season showed a more grown up look which is fine but sadly I have to say I just didn't like this collection. It looked dated. maybe it was the flowers and the jank dragonfly prints or the mumu's...

Michael van der Ham: I love a good fabric and pattern mix in this case those are two things that Michael van der Ham can do right. At first I wasn't sure this collection could hold up to the past seasons which I really liked but felt that much like with Mary the newness was missing. I think like many of his looks the whole and the parts are all worth taking in. His dresses have a different look from afar and when you take a look at the details you see a whole new dress.

Mulberry: In the past I've given a lot of side eye at Mulberry not because it was cray but mostly just found it well tailored and but meh... this season was a different story. I loved the Marimekko looking prints, leather, bold stripes shoes, bags...and naturally the bull dog. Basically if Tory Burch took this and mixed it with Michael van der Ham I might have liked her line this season, yes that was a read. Then again she runs a billion dollar company, guess I am the loser in that equation.

Paul Smith: I am thankful that Paul Smith makes menswear because I don't know where else I would get colorful Saville Row mixed with quirky details in one place. WIth that being said if I were a chic fun lesbian I would be set in clothing department! This season was typical Paul Smith bright colors, menswear inspired, mismatched buttons... the only things I was not into was the over exaggerated lapels and photo prints.

Peter Pilotto: Peter Pilotto the man of the hour and the latest to come out with a Target collab. Can not wait!! This season he is really giving Mary K a run for her money in the prints department, he seemed to be using his tricks yet again with mixing and matching prints and fabrics but as always it worked well and still seemed fresh and new. I liked the construction and even the mullet hemlines.

Preen: I want to say I've seen this already as the collection was typical Preen with the mix of flower photo prints and colorful blocks but I don't care I'm always for Preen. But I'm not here for that version of a betty rubble skirt that they kept sending out. On a side note look 23 I see you in your Spice Girls/ S Club 7 get up. Someone find some platform tennis shoes stat instead of those plastic kitten heels! The buckle trims used were interesting and gave a more industrial feeling to the looks but was also giving me some watered down C. Kane vibes.

Richard Nicoll: Very clean pallet. black, white and silver. herringbone, mod stripes and ankle boots. I thought it was easily wearable and nothing too crazy or over the top. Nice.

Roksanda Ilincic: Same ol' crazy Roksanda at it again! I was surprised how into it I was, the neoprene jackets and the 50's feel worked well. I liked the pops of color which make a Roksanda collection every time. As far as a 90's trend can be seen I am surprised this was the first time I've really noticed the pants with skirt trend, this needs to be brought back.

Simone Rocha: Art school mixed with money. Really interesting details, feminine but deconstructed. It reminded me of Comme des Garçons meets 80's madonna, work bitch!

Tom Ford: Those are some sexy clothes. The Tom of yesteryear is back! My only questions is who besides Beyonce and Rihanna will be wearing it?

Topshop Unique: 2nd half was better than the first, but I always have a hard time with Unique for Topshop. Possibly because it's Topshop and we all know the quality there is lagging. I understand this is a bit higher price point but still... aside from that I found the collection ok. I am not sure about the green twill coats if it were a lighter color I think I would have been more behind it. The beach theme with the 90's hair was easy for S/S. The Moroccan tile print was a nice link to hold it all together, plus you can never go wrong with Moroccan tiles.