Mulberry

Pre-Fall 14 part 2 by Mike Tyle

See below post for the first half and as always I'd love to know what you thought of the looks this season.

J.Mendel- She looks warm but the use of fur isn't taking over. I especially love the chevron fur! Anything ox blood will get my pick and while some of the lace pieces weren't doing it for me the dramatic to the floor dresses are begging to be used all over the red carpet. Can't wait to see who will wear what!

Jason Wu- Cozy and sexy. Two things that do not usually happen at the same time. While there are many dressed up looks they all look easy to wear and effortlessly chic. Maybe it was the cuts or the colors but something was making me think Rodarte, as in what they should be doing... not what they have been doing

Michael Kors- Very clean, back to basics American sportswear approach. Although this is Michael Kors schtick he can do it like none other and reinvents the everyday women's closet every season. This time was no different only I wasn't feeling the 80's bow bibs

Missoni- Great collection! I loved the direction the collection was going in (look 26 aside...) very 60's/70's with cuts and colors I also enjoyed the Dada font has made an extension from the SS14 collectio

Mulberry- a bit blah, I wanted to like it but I don't know if it was the tied blouses or the drab colors but it was giving me a depressing conservative 80's vibe. Maybe it was the terrible backdrop ( Tory Burch and Mulberry must have done their pictures together). Maybe a design director is needed after all..

Prabal Gurung- There is a LOT going on here... from Betty Drapper tops to Saved by the bell colored knits. Oh and let's not forget the latex shoes.

Proenza Schouler- Not much to say except keep up the good work. Again they are doing what they do best. Making interesting clothes in nice fabric

Rag & Bone- Dying when I found out the starting point for the collection was basically 90's chavs. I think it actually translated well. The black was also surprisingly refreshing.

Reed Krakoff- Several Lang elements which isn't surprising in a Krakoff collection. I wasn't a fan of the neon pink pieces, they just look jarring and too technical in comparison to the other colors and the look of the designs. I liked the 40's element of the rouging on several pieces

Thakoon- Zara is going to have a field day with this.

Theory- We've seen massive pilgrim belts the past couple seasons and finally I like it.

Tory Burch- background was killing me, very early 90's elementary school photo... stark contrast to the minimalist prints she was showcasing. Bauhaus and Tory Burch are not names that would normally belong in a sentence together but it is interesting to see her take on it.

Vera Wang- Vera is feeling black and Marni-esque this season I see. Cocoon shapes, boiled wool, fur leather and tweed all worked well for a chic fall feeling. The heavily beaded and sequence pieces were also quite nice and brought life to the otherwise clean looks. I also enjoyed the flower print that was used. Several looks left the model looking like she was playing dress-up though. The flowers on the shoes were distractin

Versace- A very young collection. A mix of bubble gum preppy school girl and rock & roll. While it was missing the usual baroque approach I still found it to read as very Versace.

Zac Posen- It's almost too bad that Zac Posen was born when he was and not 50 years earlier. The pieces he shows every year are something else but they are more like a costume than anything. I am sure there are numerous women who would die to wear his clothes but where to and when? He states several looks are for the MET which is apt but also would only work for the MET

Zero + Marina Cornejo- What I'd expect from Marina Corneja clean simple yet interesting and modern pieces. Monochrome colors and Japanese cuts.

London Fashion Week S/S14 by Mike Tyle

Antonia Berardi: Sexy, sporty colors. Leopard (always in trend I suppose...) and crocodile prints. See through panels and color blocking. I'm not mad. Mullet hems though are still happening and not only here Fashion Weeks seem to not be able to shake it.

Burberry Prorsum: Pretty, pastel and reminiscent of the 50's. 3 things girls like. The plastic flowers looked cheap and I think the theme didn't need the extra boost from them. Otherwise this was an overtly feminine collection and the antithesis to the bright metallic looks we saw last S/S. I thought the coats looked really comfy and the striped/polka dot pieces were a nice contrast. The bejeweled editorial fodder was a nice way to end. The mens looks didn't really scream newness, mostly meh.

Christopher Kane: Spreading that Kering money all the way through 45 looks, Kane has yet again used unconventional ideas and materials to give us another science lesson. Highlights for me include the fabric that reminded me of metallic fiberglass insulation. I really liked the broaches and the little wires trims wrapped around the shoes, holding together the dresses and blazers. The sweaters with the cutout wording reminded me of Carven and the first several looks were just ok and the last couple a little too literal. Regardless making the other boys on the playground that is LFW jealous.

Erdem: This is not your normal Erdem show but a good step in a new direction. I really enjoyed the white and black contrast with the sublte flower motifs. A somber mood for Spring but it inspired me as opposed to boring me with the usual still always well done flower prints and lace that Erdem is known for. More in this new direction please! Praying the buyers come through and don't scare him back into a hole.

J.W.Anderson: He's always been experimental this time it seems to have become even more so than in past seasons, especially when it comes to his use of materials. I've been reading a lot of flack for his maybe too literal inspiration from other avant-garde designers but haters are gonna hate not many can get away with mixing such designs and keep it fresh and understandable enough for a commercialism price point, but then again leave that to pre-fall, resort and collaborations. It will be interesting to see if LVMH backing comes through, it could lead to some really great things.

Jonathan Saunders: A very early 90's look and also a departure from the work Saunders has done in the past. While it keeps with his bright color pallet mixed with deep jewel tones which are signature Saunders I found this collection to not be my favorite of his. Sorry. Either way he's still hot.

L'Wren Scott: Cultural appropriation much? Ain't nobody got time for that. The shoes were intense and the embroidery was well done though.

Marios Schwab: I little bit all over the place. There were a lot of nice pieces as per usual but mostly disconnect.

Mary Katrantzou: The silhouettes and construction of her clothes are top-notch and while the girl knows her way around a computer and a dizzying photo print. I want to see something new! Shoes are not doing it for me and I know that she has to have more up her sleeve. If she was able to do what she has done thus far then I know there is more to see. I will say while the shoe looks didn't do anything for me and the flowers were pretty but a bit been there done that I did find the cuts to be new and interesting. I just hope next seasons she wows us all again!

Matthew Williamson: clothing for the woman unafraid of color. I always enjoy seeing anything Matthew Williamson, it's hard not to be happy with all the bright colors and ethnic prints and embroideries. This season showed a more grown up look which is fine but sadly I have to say I just didn't like this collection. It looked dated. maybe it was the flowers and the jank dragonfly prints or the mumu's...

Michael van der Ham: I love a good fabric and pattern mix in this case those are two things that Michael van der Ham can do right. At first I wasn't sure this collection could hold up to the past seasons which I really liked but felt that much like with Mary the newness was missing. I think like many of his looks the whole and the parts are all worth taking in. His dresses have a different look from afar and when you take a look at the details you see a whole new dress.

Mulberry: In the past I've given a lot of side eye at Mulberry not because it was cray but mostly just found it well tailored and but meh... this season was a different story. I loved the Marimekko looking prints, leather, bold stripes shoes, bags...and naturally the bull dog. Basically if Tory Burch took this and mixed it with Michael van der Ham I might have liked her line this season, yes that was a read. Then again she runs a billion dollar company, guess I am the loser in that equation.

Paul Smith: I am thankful that Paul Smith makes menswear because I don't know where else I would get colorful Saville Row mixed with quirky details in one place. WIth that being said if I were a chic fun lesbian I would be set in clothing department! This season was typical Paul Smith bright colors, menswear inspired, mismatched buttons... the only things I was not into was the over exaggerated lapels and photo prints.

Peter Pilotto: Peter Pilotto the man of the hour and the latest to come out with a Target collab. Can not wait!! This season he is really giving Mary K a run for her money in the prints department, he seemed to be using his tricks yet again with mixing and matching prints and fabrics but as always it worked well and still seemed fresh and new. I liked the construction and even the mullet hemlines.

Preen: I want to say I've seen this already as the collection was typical Preen with the mix of flower photo prints and colorful blocks but I don't care I'm always for Preen. But I'm not here for that version of a betty rubble skirt that they kept sending out. On a side note look 23 I see you in your Spice Girls/ S Club 7 get up. Someone find some platform tennis shoes stat instead of those plastic kitten heels! The buckle trims used were interesting and gave a more industrial feeling to the looks but was also giving me some watered down C. Kane vibes.

Richard Nicoll: Very clean pallet. black, white and silver. herringbone, mod stripes and ankle boots. I thought it was easily wearable and nothing too crazy or over the top. Nice.

Roksanda Ilincic: Same ol' crazy Roksanda at it again! I was surprised how into it I was, the neoprene jackets and the 50's feel worked well. I liked the pops of color which make a Roksanda collection every time. As far as a 90's trend can be seen I am surprised this was the first time I've really noticed the pants with skirt trend, this needs to be brought back.

Simone Rocha: Art school mixed with money. Really interesting details, feminine but deconstructed. It reminded me of Comme des Garçons meets 80's madonna, work bitch!

Tom Ford: Those are some sexy clothes. The Tom of yesteryear is back! My only questions is who besides Beyonce and Rihanna will be wearing it?

Topshop Unique: 2nd half was better than the first, but I always have a hard time with Unique for Topshop. Possibly because it's Topshop and we all know the quality there is lagging. I understand this is a bit higher price point but still... aside from that I found the collection ok. I am not sure about the green twill coats if it were a lighter color I think I would have been more behind it. The beach theme with the 90's hair was easy for S/S. The Moroccan tile print was a nice link to hold it all together, plus you can never go wrong with Moroccan tiles.