Prada

Menswear SS17- Part 2 by Mike Tyle

As not to overwhelm here is a continuation from my last post featuring another set of reviews to my fave Menswear designers this season.

Dries Van Noten

Every season I am astounded. His collections bring sophistication to the masses. Always bringing fans on a journey to another time and place. Normally I am not a print kinda guy but when it comes out of het Modepaleis I know it will be something I need in my closet. This season is no different the collection moves effortlessly from cream, soft whites and punches of metallic silver intermixing with macrame and patch work reminiscent of the arts & crafts movement of the 70's intermixing. Then medieval tapestry prints and camouflage. Ending in loose draped indigo fabric looks. Wow. Basically,  Scotch & Soda will be knocking this off in...

 

 

 

 

DSquared2

I found the Ziggy platforms to be a bit distracting but I know the Caden twins always have something tongue-and-cheek to offset their designs but also show that gender-fuck can be mainstream! DSquared2 always love a good theme and I am right there with them! They can make anything be over the top yet still masculine enough that a fashionable guy would want in their closet regardless, ok maybe the sequined camo parka is pushing it... This SS the theme was skinhead which has been done by numerous designers over the season and I've always been a fan of the outcome. This time around Dean & Dan added a bit of an overtly homo-dandy twist to make it their own.

 

 

 

 

Gucci

The imagination of Alessandro Michele is unique in that he can take so many different ideas jumble them up and create something new out of it. Always exciting and intriguing this season is no different. There are so many elements at play you don't know where to look first!  Now to say fishermen, Dynasty China & Donald Duck don't mix hasn't seen the Edwardian preppy dandy boys of Gucci under Alessandro!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Maison Margiela

Quintessential imperfectly perfect Margiela delivered as always. Why do something dramatic when you have a wining combo every time? Paper fabrics mix with fluid fabrics, unfinished garments and tailors tacking galore left me feeling happy.

Niel Barrett

Sports references were still heavily referenced, and do well for the brand. Instead of the army green, black & white palette we have become used to has now branched out into more 70's brown tones with red-orange and yellow highlights used in diagonal inserts and modern graphics. Also something we haven't seen much in past seasons is his use of denim. I've always been a fan of his work but I like this toned down grown-up direction more than the use of broken-up statues artworks of past seasons. I especially love some of the leather pieces with symmetrical inserts on the sleeves and breasts.

Prada

Nylon. The fabric that started Prada. Season after season reinventing the label only this time using the founding fabric to create yet another utilitarian look. This Prada man is ready to wander. Weather it be trekking across countries or from work to the gym the look is apparent. Athleisure is king and peoples attitudes towards relaxed dressing has long been the norm. So why not pair breathable nylon with a suit coat, leggings, socks & sandals. Bright colors, weather maps and some cute conversational prints added for good measure. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Raf Simons

In collaboration with the Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation images adorn each outfit with the over all look of each model sent out as an homage to the great photographer. Whether a still life, Patti Smith or a semi-hard dick with a cock ring the pictures framed, printed, cut & sewn to the items brought to life the works of a great photographer and melded perfectly with the oversize garments and added another layer to the thinking man's wardrobe.

Prada Archive by Mike Tyle

Prada, my love.

The newly revamped Prada website now including "A Future Archive" comes with a ton of great features allowing the fan to view all collections, ads & videos from past seasons.

Including one of my favorite videos of all time:

"Thunder Perfect Mind" Daria Werbowy reading from the Gnostic Manuscript to a jazz soundtrack and filmed in Berlin. Le sigh.

What's not to love?!

In honor of the big release I've posted below some of my favorite Prada campaigns.

It's really interesting to see how the red line follows through the clothes while still evolving. Distinctly Prada even when the themes are ever changing.

My only issue with the website is that for the most part there are only 2 images from the ads for each season instead of all of the photos for each collection! Hopefully some day it will be in it's entirety.

Prada Resort 15 by Mike Tyle

Happy Halloween! My gift to you is the new Prada campaign which dropped today.

Stunning and creepy.

As always Prada has won me over again!

With all Prada campaigns you never know how they merchandise will be reflected in the advertisements (especially the always enjoyable and arty look books) and this season was no different. The black and white brings out the contrast stitching but as opposed to using color the juxtaposition is stark yet also subtle.

It's Gemma, bitch! by Mike Tyle

Gemma Ward opening & Lara Stone closing. Only Prada could make this happen and it did.

Sasha in the middle would have been a welcome surprise but I have to say I literally almost fell out of my chair when I saw Gemma walk out. It's been since fucking 2008! I don't blame her for leaving and being hesitant to coming back but I welcome her presence and look forward to more.

Milan Fashion Week S/S14 by Mike Tyle

Alberta Ferretti: I get that the theme was South America but man did the people at Ferretti turn basket weaving Peru into the girliest thing ever! Flowers and lace and ruffles, oh my. Aside from that it was giving me D&G vibes. Take that as you will.

Aquilano.Rimondi: Just when you think tropical flowers, gag me. These guys show a whole new way to go about it and make it awesome and new. Throw in some neoprene THE fabric of the past couple seasons add some jewel tones and voila beauty! Possibly one of the best shows of the season.

Armani: Only 57 looks. I say that in genuine surprise since last season had oh... 85? Finally 28 less colorways. Albeit meticulously made, still has that 1980's power suit silhouettes, that all look the same. I'm just telling it how I see it. 

Bottega Veneta: Oh shit, that was some good stuff. This is how you do pleats and not in a hot mess 80's prom dress way. The best of SS14. I always feel like people don't talk about the genius that is Tomas Maier, like they do Muccia, he always brings it every season in a paired down high luxury classic yet cutting edge way. This season his fabric choices were on point especially the quality seen in the raw edge and feather looks that seemed to melt into the dresses. Don't even get me started on those Japanese-esque pleating techniques, ugh the craftsmanship is killing me. The somber spring colors also were spot on in my opinion especially for the customer and price level. These are items that are unique and timeless. Shut it down! 

Bluemarine: High-end Bebe.

Dolce & Gabbana: Been there done that 5 seasons going now... I would have fine but those gold coins ruined it for me oh and those laughable pillar shoes.

Etro: Someone could have edited this to 40 looks and that still would have been more than enough paisely. I really liked the other prints very retro and nice. I thought the shoes didn't really match the collection, much too flashy where as I was getting more of an explorer, hand made embroidery, fabric mix indian vibe from the rest of the outfits.

Fausto Puglisi: Very Italina. Sexy, summer, fun. I really was surprised by the tropical palm tree motif throughout the show was not overwheling even though it was in a majority of looks and in different techniques. Though I didn't really like the rounded skirts I as I felt they awkard looking and really won't transfer well off a runway, it looked like they took a sphere and chopped it in half. The leather details however were nice and added a sexy juxtapostion to the easy beach theme. hair and make-up were spot on.

Fendi: I feel like Fendi is often looked over also I feel like Karl Lagerfeld is only looked at as the face of Chanel. It's too bad becuase in my opinon Fendi is always much stronger and frankly more interesting than Chanel. I understand it is a different customer, much like his own lines are but still Fendi is where it is at. Usually bright and geometic with intersting fabric mixes this season was no different.

Ferragamo: The pinstripe peices remindiend me of Stella McCartney only I liked hers better... maybe it was becuase of the colorway. I was feeling the 90's minimalism. At first I wasn't too into the snakeskin but I thought it really added a nice contrast to the soft feimine looks and brought life to the otherwise drab palette. This season showed as well how good Ferragamo is at making a trench coat they really rivals Burberry in technique. The skirts and leather peices were very nice as well as the small lingerie detials hinted with the laced up jackets.

Gucci: About as casual as Gucci has ever been but minus sweat pants and add some mesh to the eqaution. Still sexy and perfect for a nightclub mixed with art nevau detailing. Ok, basically those 2 sentences sound redicoulous but it's true. Jeweltones and black coloration helped to mix both themes of port and classic illustration. Some of the looks near the end were a bit tacky and heavy on the shimmer.

Jil Sander: Sad. Mostly becuase I have always held the brand to such a high expectation and it's not to say that this season was bad, I found that the magic was still in the details. The problem is Jil Sander always offered something quite and clean and which unexpecdedly gave so much with using so little and now it seems that the look has grown more and more with many other designer taking on the Jil esthetic and making it their own. One thing for sure those 90's belts with the sliver trim were a bit tacky.

Marco de Vincenzo: A young designer with only a few seasons under his belt but showing stronger collections each season. This time around he still brought a  feminine, italian apporach to luxury. Many 50's style dresses with fabric mix ranging from dangling bits to sewn eyeltes and ombre beading (my fave), I was also really intrgued by his knit pieces (look 31 & 32 I am takling about you) and hope he delves deeper into knitwear next season. A clean strong pallete with metallics and grey undertones brought the line together nicely.

Marni: A different direction for a Marni collection. The pants were cool but sadly not everyone has a model leg length. The accessories were still typical Marni quirky, chunky, atypical and intersting.

MaxMara: The minimalist in me wanted to love all of it but the pantyhose ruined it for me. The handkerchiefs were very Rochas. I really loved the details- fabric, cut, color... but I found the backside of that last look was just... nope.

Missoni: A very un-Missoni collection! Usually when one thinks of Missoni they already know what to expect and I am sure that will never change but for the main womens collection this season they surprised the consumer with something different. Still knit but not as busy and zig-zaggy as usual (it was still there, don't worry!) instead cleaner pallette with warm hues of purple, pink, orange... added to motifs of birds and waves at the beginning which later turned to jutting rock structures. The dresses taking on a more blankety sari look when it came to the drapping often including printed knit structures. Unlike when Wang or DNKY produced items with their name written all over it I found the subtly and artful way the brand was shown on tops and purses cut out in a rubber print or leather looked right. The peices with open knit strands sometimes beaded near the end really took the collection up a notch whereas the crazy ponytails where distracting.

No. 21:  I know it has been around for a few seasons but I have to admit it is always one of my favorite shows each season. The looks are always on point and really nice. This season the clothes started out dark and sexy with sheer looks that were seen throughout and then turned as well to lighter white jewel embellished shirts and tropical print, which I was surprised by but also really liked how they spun it and used the leaves to create embroidered cut outs and printed pieces. A different take on a trend we have been seeing sporadically season.

Prada: The reason why Prada will always be in my top 5 is the clothes really are something that makes you think twice. Usually upon first inspection they can be garish and not commercial but when you really inspect the garments it all makes sense. And again I am in love. This season was no different at first I was not impressed but I let it all sink in and as always STUNNED. The use of  jewel encrusted trompe l'oeil bra tops, multi-color furs, printed women and sporty knit elements just goes to show that Muccia is her own person and creates trends how she see's fit,

Pucci: Pucci meets hip-hop meets Africa. You have to leave it to Dundas for designing a collection that as always is sexy, sporty and full of jet-setting glamour. The heavyweight belts were a bit distracting as well as Julia Nobis and Hanelore, not that they aren't great models they just don't fit the Pucci aesthetic for me. Instead I want to see Victoria Secret type girls not filler. As with almost all high-end runway fashion brands I often wonder how the sell through is. Pucci has the brand history a company needs and are well known for their prints which I am sure still sell well. The runway looks always exude glamour the Pucci print money allows them to be known for for but I sadly can't imagine the majority of the runway collection are money makers since the styles are for a very specific model-esque elite. Plus they aren't well known for perfumes or bags which is how most brands seem to be funded nowadays. Regardless I loved the no make-up and tussled hair look. And another positive note as always Pucci makes a sexy shoe and this season was no different.

Roberto Cavalli: One thing can be said about Cavalli. He is consistent. I can't lie, usually something like Cavalli would go against all that I hold true to my design aesthetic. With most any other designer I would hate on such garish, flamboyant styles but for some reason I can't help but always get into it some Cavalli bling. This season like any other you know to expect sexy, boho-chic, animal print, embellishment, tassels, lace... you get the picture. This season was all about shine. As always you really need to get up close and personal with the garments to see the details and how intricate the pieces are. From afar it was a bit of a textured Tinman effect near the beginning of the show and then a lacy sea foam patchwork hippy section followed by a sharp turn into black and white. Those Muumuus however are something I can not get behind.

Versace: Leave it to Donatella and her hard rocker ways. This season had Versace going back to their rocker roots complete with concert T's, denim and chains. I wasn't feeling this collection as much as I have past seasons (S11, F010, F09, S09 I am looking at you) but as someone who is not the target market I can still see many pieces that the Versace girl and drag queen will love. Hello those shoes! I did like the use of the medusa head on the bags and when mixed with chains on several of the dresses. Also, Lindsey Wixson's hair in it's current state is not Versace worthy.

part deux by Mike Tyle

The second half of my trip home was spent in upstate NY visiting my good friend and all around awesome lady Krysta. She was home for the summer from London and while we are only a hop, skip and a jump away from one another in Europe we seem to find ourselves in the U.S. at the best time to be in the U.S.- summer!

We spent most the time doing what we do best... visiting sites, eating food, enjoying a beach/pool/mini-cooper. Below are some examples doing just that.

 

At the Empire State Plaza in Albany, NY.

Had I known about the dinner plans this would have just been a day outfit...

Krysta told me we were going out but I didn't know we were GOING OUT...

Krysta- sunglasses: Prada, dress: Herve Leger, purse: Louis Vuitton

Me- shirt: J.Crew, bow tie: vintage Lanvin, shorts: COS, belt: Fossil, sandals: Mango, sunglasses: Burberry

At the lake house. It's not summer unless booty shorts and chips are involved!

tank: Topman, swimsuit: Diesel

sweatshirt: Acne, shorts: Topman

I had to.

One last dip before the plane ride back!

mesh sweatshirt: D&G, bathing suit: Diesel, sunglasses: Burberry