Pre-Fall

Pre-Fall 14 part 4 by Mike Tyle

With this 3rd & 4th installments I again found it really difficult when choosing one of my fave looks to show (ehm Valentino...). Nevertheless there were some great Pre-Fall collections and I am excited to see how they will do in stores as well as give direction to the comming FW14 season.

Lanvin- Classic Lanvin.

Louis Vuitton- Well done considering it was made between creative directors coming and going. But there were times I felt like I was looking at 2 very different collections. The first half was very LV/artsy the 2nd half was commercial as could be. While it may have been a jarring change in scenery and style the LV women was still obvious and the fabrics and cuts proved it.

Marni- It's hard for me not to like a Marni collection. This season was no different. I loved just about every look. There isn't much to say in terms of direction. Compared to SS14 this was more in a usual Marni fashion which was not broing in the least. Still playing with oversize silhouette, great furs and wool and lovely shoes. It had a bit or a MiuMiu feeling in several looks which I a not complaining about in the least. All in all print and fabric direction were what I except them to be... great!

Margiela- It's Margiela. You never know what to expect but as always I was excited to see what the team would come up with this time reinventing everyday wardrobe pieces into something so different yet so right. A subdued palette of grey, navy and black mixed with menswear styles. Oversize was the theme this season and it worked perfectly in terms of big cardigans, men's shirts with large sleeves, folded over men's pants moving into draped shift dresses and fur. Really you can't go wrong.

Matthew Williamson- Femine and bright colors, what more can one ask for from a Matthew Williamson pre-fall collection.

MaxMara- I got major Derek Lam vibes from this collection. Very clean and modern yet something about it was tired. Maybe because it skewed a bit old? the colors? One thing for sure, like Lam, wide-leg floods are not helping anyone.

No. 21- I find No.21 to be superior to big brother Alessandro Dell’Acqua. The right amount of wear-ability but still a little something that makes the customer know that the garment is special. This season I felt though that the over-all effect was a bit too close to a high end J.Crew. Maybe it was the military colors and sequence.

Nina Ricci- Work! As always the Ricci girl is ambiguous for being both girly and flirty yet sexy and seducing. this collection was no different. Keep that money coming!

Preen- I usually love Preen. Prints, colors, silhouette always on point. While there were several looks that I really liked and I also enjoyed the deep blueish pruple and pumpkin orange colors I found the bird theme could have been done in a much less gimmicky way. Also the writing on the jackets was not cute.

Pucci- I picture the Pucci girl skiing... Pucci girls don't ski but they do go to the Alps. That is where I picture this girl suited up and printed out. Bright fuschia, teal and ethnic prints to really stand out from the snow.

Ralph Lauren- Pure American Ralph. This is one of the best collections I have seen from RL in a long time, while the Ralph Lauren girl always stays true to clean sophisticated American sportswear. This time around there were no gimmicks or obvious themes aside form unpretentiously pretentious Upper-West Side women. Clean cashmere, jersey, silk, fur in tones of grey and beige shows that you don't need much to make something perfect. Classic.

Roberto Cavalli- Exactly what one would expect from a Cavalli line. Full of metallic, beading, embroidery and most importantly animal print! Italian in every way but as quick as this could look cheap I somehow always love it. I know I don't understand it either...

Roksanda IIincic- Very grown-up compared to other collection. I don't mean to say that the prior seasons were juvenile I just feel that the collection has the clear direction I have been searching for. This season the mix of bonded wool and the felt with scultpural silhouettes in bold colors was it.

Roland Mouret- I found the photography and model designer distracting. I get the idea was to show how everyday glamorous the collection could be but sadly I was too distracted by the lighting and surroundings to notice the garments which is a pity as Mouret is known for a great clean cut and red carpet ready looks. Good thing award season is upon us and I can see the dresses soon.

The Row- Modern, classic, conventional and yet so different from anything we are seeing. The Olsens have really brought forth another great collection of everyday basics but with luxury fabrics that eschew constantly changing themes instead showing whole other thought process to the way these pieces are worn. So constrained and meticulous yet easy.

Sonia Rykiel- The clothes looked comfy but I don't know if it was the angles or the model but she looked short and frumpy in a couple shots. I really liked how the print dresses ran off at the bottom though. Really shows design in the details which is always important.

Stella McCartney- Just when you think polka dots are done.... If there is one thing the Stella girl can do it is to make a masculine style feminine and sexy. Mixing dots, herringbone and line drawn people with boxy cuts brought together the line. The shoes, as always, were perfect.

Thom Browne- A new type of camouflage and the idea of men's preppy striped ties were the direction of this season over at Browne. Naturally the color palette wasn't without the typical red, white and blue which were put to use on the zany, yet satirically challenging pieces. One thing about Thome brown is, even if it isn't your style, the work that goes into his clothes are unprecedented in the American market. Full of detail and interesting fabrics. I am always intrigued as to what he will come up with next. Pre-Fall was a bit less theatrical and more wearable than his usual runway shows but none-the-less full of really great tweed, fur, jacquard and chunky knit pieces.

Valentino- Love. Ok, get the first thing out of the way... that many look is not Pre-Fall friendly or necessary. However when you have such a strong design lead and look it is hard not to make great ideas come to life. Unlike with D&G while it may be reoccurring it is also evolving and in a direction that keeps me excited to see what will come next. Capes and animal motifs, muted tones of moss green, grown and black with a dash of feathers in the right places. The geometric mink patterned coat? I died.

Pre-Fall 14 part 3 by Mike Tyle

Soon enough will be time to work on Menswear FW14 and Couture S14!

As always check out my fave picks in Pinterest and leave me a comment on your thoughts on the collections as well!

Acne- Not many clothiers can recreate classic pieces in such quirky cool ways. leave it to the Swedish to do just that. This time featuring large proportions, shearling, neoprene, leather and silk. Hard to go wrong with that combination even better is the colorways full of watery teal, deep brown and creamy beige.

Alberta Ferretti-  A nautical theme with rich colors and textures. Lot's of flashes of bold hues mixed with deep neutrals... Much like the ocean. Beautiful luxury fabrics such as silk and fur embellished with gold wire embroideries for a naval effect. There was something different to this collection then what I have seen in the past from Ferretti and I like the direction it is going in.

Alexander McQueen- I was quite excited to see a designer play with tailors tack! I mean we see it often in the form of Margiela but in a whole different context. While the McQueen of Sarah Burton is no A.McQ to say the least I do think the more commercial direction she is leading the house in isn't a bad thing and the imagination has not been lost. Morphing of the menswear to more feminine evening wear starting with wool jackets and ending in rose embroidered taffeta dresses was the correct juxtaposition to keep the world of McQueen as we once knew it.

Armani- As much as I want to like Armani I just am not a fan. I will say this time wasn't a snooze-fest. Regardless I always bow at the fab. advertisements each season so Giorgio you still win. I was impressed with the fabrics used and the silhouettes while I find the designs always skew to a more 80's boxy influence I somehow got it this time. The color story was also on point. Some of the styling however caused me to side-eye what is happening over there in Milan.

Balenciaga- A strong collection for Wang full of technical fabrics and black & white. Both of which are becoming more and more synonymous as the typical Balenciaga x A.Wang mash-up. Not that I am complaining, it really seems to work well, creating interest and added value. You can also tell he hits those archives hard which can also be a good thing because with Balenciaga there is a long history of great work at the house which should be used and reinterpreted. Playing on volume and fabric mix has me hoping that the FW14 will be just as dramatic.

Balmain- I really liked it. Which is more or less a surprise as I have come to expect Balmain to bring Dynasty every season. Ok that was still there but mixed with safari which is something I always love. The colors were clean and just right. Khaki, hunter, navy with animal print thrown in... The fabrics were what one would expect for the highest price points imaginable. Lot's of leather, angora, metal embellished pieces. I hope this direction continues and am sure the customer base will grow as this incorporates a woman that isn't into clothes that are pure 80's sex.

Carven- I am always a Carven supporter. I love that the girl looks are growing up with the woman who wears them while still keeping the school girl charm. This season the collar really got my attention. Not only was it big but had just the right curve... Ok I am letting my designer brain get to me. Aside from that the berry tones and clean tartan checks used in mix with the bomber jackets, fisherman knits and twine closures added to the Carven look. I wasn't such a fan of the bib look that showed up in #22 but all in all the season was another winner for me.

Chloé- Pleasantly surprised. I understand Hannah MacGibbon hasn't been at the helm for a while but I am still always thankful that we have moved past those frumpy beige days. I really liked this season a lot better than last which was a bit too gypsy/handkerchief hem heavy for me. 

Christopher Kane- Bold colors, full skirts, fur, python print... it all worked really nicely. The collection had a classic approach but with nontraditional pieces that added something new to the mix, namely the wide curved straps that held it together or the chunky zippers. Then came the molecular science side of Kane which we have had glimpses of in the past and what seemed to have worked well. This time around I wasn't feeling it and with Men's FW14 carrying the theme further. I hope I won't get to sick of seeing the 3-D imagery as I am sure it will be heavily used in editorials the next few months.

Creatures of the Wind- Nice. Compared to past CotW collections it seemed more toned down but at the same time still quirky. A bit mod with a hint of hippie. Something perfect for an Anthro/Free People gal with even more dinero to spend on leather, silk and cashmere.

Dior- Wow, where has this been for all the other Dior by Raf shows... Finally the flowers are at a minimum, the Belgian look is showing up (where else would you see a New Look made out of a a MA jacket?) The fur coats with a shock of electric blue really drew my attention. I think the use of Dior in a new way this season really made me take notice and hope that this direction continues. The subtle use of the Dior look mixed with new ideas such as the take on leopard print, the he metallic checks or how the silk pieces meshed against tweed looks or the leather jacket.

Derek Lam- I loved the fabrics used chunky fur, mohair, velvet, bonded jersey, origami cuts.. but the cropped bell bottoms on the other hand... all in all it really goes to show the use of quality fabrics always deliver quite an impact and makes the price point justifiable.

Fausto Puglisi- Still with those damn rounded circle skirts... Loud, graphic and very Italian. Block contrast primary colors gave it a mod edge which I can always appreciate.

Fendi- Graphic, color blocked and furry as per usual. Karl Lagerfeld... Shade, no shade but if no one knew that you designed both Chanel and Fendi no body would believe it. As always I love Fendi and this season was no different. A nod to menswear this pre-fall with many modern layering pieces

Giambattista Valli- Brocade, fur, florals and leopard. Sounds familiar. While I found the direction for the pictures to mimc past lookbooks it didn't bother me. The camera angles gave movement to the garments as well as more interesting views of the styles.

Givenchy- Tribal meets tech. Modern with Bauhaus and Klee/Klimt influences yet full of fur, still with African influence and sequence reminiscent of SS14.

J.W. Anderson- Seemed a bit more wearable than previous seasons and def. more than the menswear. I appreciate the ascetic that Anderson tries with his clothing but at the same time it is obvious he is heavily influenced by Rei. The colors this season reminded me of Celine SS14 women's which was a hit so werk! 

Jonathan Saunders- Really impressed. I mean I am always impressed by Saunders but something about this collection drew me in. Very wearable and casual but with the right fabrics to make it still dressy. A definite menswear feel in a great color range of olive, salmon, black, white, ruby...

Pre-Fall 14 part 2 by Mike Tyle

See below post for the first half and as always I'd love to know what you thought of the looks this season.

J.Mendel- She looks warm but the use of fur isn't taking over. I especially love the chevron fur! Anything ox blood will get my pick and while some of the lace pieces weren't doing it for me the dramatic to the floor dresses are begging to be used all over the red carpet. Can't wait to see who will wear what!

Jason Wu- Cozy and sexy. Two things that do not usually happen at the same time. While there are many dressed up looks they all look easy to wear and effortlessly chic. Maybe it was the cuts or the colors but something was making me think Rodarte, as in what they should be doing... not what they have been doing

Michael Kors- Very clean, back to basics American sportswear approach. Although this is Michael Kors schtick he can do it like none other and reinvents the everyday women's closet every season. This time was no different only I wasn't feeling the 80's bow bibs

Missoni- Great collection! I loved the direction the collection was going in (look 26 aside...) very 60's/70's with cuts and colors I also enjoyed the Dada font has made an extension from the SS14 collectio

Mulberry- a bit blah, I wanted to like it but I don't know if it was the tied blouses or the drab colors but it was giving me a depressing conservative 80's vibe. Maybe it was the terrible backdrop ( Tory Burch and Mulberry must have done their pictures together). Maybe a design director is needed after all..

Prabal Gurung- There is a LOT going on here... from Betty Drapper tops to Saved by the bell colored knits. Oh and let's not forget the latex shoes.

Proenza Schouler- Not much to say except keep up the good work. Again they are doing what they do best. Making interesting clothes in nice fabric

Rag & Bone- Dying when I found out the starting point for the collection was basically 90's chavs. I think it actually translated well. The black was also surprisingly refreshing.

Reed Krakoff- Several Lang elements which isn't surprising in a Krakoff collection. I wasn't a fan of the neon pink pieces, they just look jarring and too technical in comparison to the other colors and the look of the designs. I liked the 40's element of the rouging on several pieces

Thakoon- Zara is going to have a field day with this.

Theory- We've seen massive pilgrim belts the past couple seasons and finally I like it.

Tory Burch- background was killing me, very early 90's elementary school photo... stark contrast to the minimalist prints she was showcasing. Bauhaus and Tory Burch are not names that would normally belong in a sentence together but it is interesting to see her take on it.

Vera Wang- Vera is feeling black and Marni-esque this season I see. Cocoon shapes, boiled wool, fur leather and tweed all worked well for a chic fall feeling. The heavily beaded and sequence pieces were also quite nice and brought life to the otherwise clean looks. I also enjoyed the flower print that was used. Several looks left the model looking like she was playing dress-up though. The flowers on the shoes were distractin

Versace- A very young collection. A mix of bubble gum preppy school girl and rock & roll. While it was missing the usual baroque approach I still found it to read as very Versace.

Zac Posen- It's almost too bad that Zac Posen was born when he was and not 50 years earlier. The pieces he shows every year are something else but they are more like a costume than anything. I am sure there are numerous women who would die to wear his clothes but where to and when? He states several looks are for the MET which is apt but also would only work for the MET

Zero + Marina Cornejo- What I'd expect from Marina Corneja clean simple yet interesting and modern pieces. Monochrome colors and Japanese cuts.

Pre-Fall 14 part 1 by Mike Tyle

While it was hard to just pick one accompanying image of my favorite look for each designer (and believe me if wasn't easy!) take a look at my pinterest for more in-depth picks.

Let me know what your opinion on the collections were as well, i'd love to hear it!

3.1 Philip Lim- Love. Anything metallic can do no wrong in my book. I thought the concept of young girls in Berlin was perfect and I can totally see it! Very cool wearable clothes with a twist, gave the looks more of an elevated feeling form something you can buy just anywhere. Perfect for the boutiques of Mitte & Prenzlauer Berg. The pops of metallic were set off well amongst the more somber tones.

Akris- Bonnie & Clyde. This is a theme that comes up every couple years and is reinterpreted, this time around Akris take on the famously infamous Bonnie is really spot on yet well adjusted to the woman of today. Incorporating colors and cuts of yesteryear with luxury fabrics of today's standards. The beret's though... I get it's "Bonnie" but every look? I am sure she took her's off sometimes too.

Alexander Wang- Decomposing as theme. Leave it to Wang to get me excited about clothing that is already falling apart. But first can we talk about the riding shoes? Love! Was giving me F/W 09 Prada waders vibes... I thought the paler was on point and as always his use of technical mixed with high-end fabrics always leaves me wanting more

Altuzarra- A lot of cute easy basics in warm fall colors. Snuggly fitted blazers and lot's of high slits on pencil skirts. I liked the throw-back plaids and wide stripes.

Band of Outsiders- Really liked the plaid choices and directions. Not sure how I feel about the pants fastening at the bottom. All in all a seemingly young collection. Happy to see a jumpsuit or two in there as well

BCBG Max Azria- A very different direction or at least very different looking from what I excepted to see. As much as I get and like the BCBG girl we are used to this was a pleasant surprise. The layering and bias cut styles were still there but the fabrics and colors were much heavier looking and the over al effect was a much more modern feel.

Bottega Veneta- As obsessed as I was last season this time around was no different. I really enjoyed the graphic black and white pieces at the beginning and while the splashes of color brought life to the garments I believe that the entire line could have been built out of black and white and done just as fantastically well.

Burberry Prorsum- I always love the pre-Fall and Resort look books from Burberry. immaculately styled, great pieces and colors. It seems a nice mix of high & low presenting graphics T's with jacquard pants and skirts. Leather and fur trimmed coats with paisley print floor length dresses. This time there while there were several complete looks I loved there were also some things I was questioning. The lace pieces for example... you know which I am talking about.

Calvin Klein- I just did not like this collection which is very unlike me because usually C.K. collection is perfection of modernity. I like the soft and cozy idea but the basic melange and clogs were not cute. Also the huge seasonal button was a bit awkward. I liked the blood red look at the end and the last metallic piece was very nice. I wish both of those looks were more expounded upon.

Chanel- It's like Ralf Lauren and Isabela Marant had a love child... but you know when 2 really good looking people have a baby and it cancels each other out and they make a hideous child. This is it. Usually I hate that Chanel has 95 styles but in this case it helped because I was able to find about 10 good looks in between. And by that I mean realistically maybe 20 water downed looks could be worn and everything else was just no.

Diane von Furstenberg- Poppy commercial prints DVF is known for. I am sure buyers are having a field day.

Donna Karan- I think I have a problem with berets. They are heinous. Aside fomr that it was a collection full of easy pieces: the shirt, the skirt. the belt. You can't go wrong there

DKNY- black and white transition into baby blue and peach. Not such a fan of the blunt graphics but liked the mix of sportswear and minimal design.

Erdem- Brocade, glitter and lace. All things Erdem. The intrersting thing about Erdem is he can easily be placed in the same realm as OdlR or Herrera in that he makes clothes that older women love but at the same time young girls look just as nice in them. That is a fine line not many people can balance. Unlike his counterparts I enjoy the freshness Erdem brings every season while sticking to what he knows.

Gucci- A bit Burberry meets 70's feeling. Gucci shows how high-end meets street wear while it looked VERY casual the fabrics used were money! Shift dresses and jeans... something I wasn't expecting but somehow also perfect.

Helmut Lang- Black, white and modern all over.