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Menswear SS17- Part 1 by Mike Tyle

As a designer & stylist I am always looking for inspiration. New silhouettes, colors, ways of combining looks... needless to say I always pay very close attention to the runways.

While there are always certain designers that I look to every season with anticipation there are also seasons that can be a let down and all I can think is...

But I digress... here are my top SS17 shows that had me wanting more.

 

Alexander McQueen

Always a brand that really scours the archives to evolve. This season the contrast highlights of a McQueen look were seen in sharp tailoring while styled with sneakers for a contemporary feel. Paisley brocade, military silhouettes, vintage postcard travel motifs and punk-meets-India inspired jewelry. Serving up some Dries van Noten vibes and I am here for it!

Ami

Ami can be quite simple and give off APC basic vibes at times. But this season brought me back to what I love about the brand: The Parisian way of life. The bobo slightly oversized suit worn in a casual just-woke-up-threw-this-on/je-ne-sais-quoi attitude that only the French can pull off. All combined make for a great look but even alone they are stand out while still being traditional pieces for the every-man.

Ann Demeulemeester

Sébastien Meunier’s take on Demeulemeester has developed from a place of love. He has made his mark over the past 3 years at helm by bringing newness to the collection while providing a consistent "red line" that stays true to the brand however I haven't found it fully encompass a collection until this season. SS17 intermixed with women's resort has brought romance to the runway through the inaugural monochromatic black with highlights of white and with flashes of red seen in the beaded tags "I am red with love". Ribbons, chainlettes and paint dipped feathers hung from the loose often striped or open knit garments accompanied by embroidered bird cummerbunds. I am always a fan and this time around I found the soft poetic feel of this collection to be on point and a highlight of the past several seasons.

 

Balenciaga

Ok Vetements is an enigma. Sometimes I am like YAAAAS and other times I am like W T F. Now that Demna has take the helm at Balenciaga we have seen how he has flipped the women's line from the monochrome Wang direction to ...well an elevated Vetements without budget constraints. One can already see a dramatic push in the first menswear collection. Boxy fits and elongated shoulders juxtaposed on either large or shrunken silhouettes. While the extremity of the collection might not be wearable for all his pushing the boundaries will help to open the tightly constructed world of menswear and that in itself is a reason to be excited!

 

 

 

Coach 1941

I am living for this! Since F/W14 when Coach restructured they have come a long way. From the get go I found the rebranding a great idea. No longer the monogram purse mall magnet the clothing has a voice of it's own. Each season since has been a fast progression. While they have learned what works and what doesn't for the customer the designs still push for the boundaries and the themes are obvious but subtle. Taking everyday classic pieces and give them life without screaming straight kitsch. This seasons 50's rockabilly-lite meets cowboy feeling has me hooked! I am in love with all the leather jackets! The use of Gary Basemans artistic flair really is the perfect touch and I know I will be on the look out for several pieces for when I join a fashion forward 50's gang.

 

 

 

 

 

Diesel Black Gold

Ok, I wasn't expecting this either. I think what got me was the denim mixed COS & Carhartt together et voilà! I am a sucker for clean lines, boxy shapes, fabric mixes and workwear details... oh,  lets not forget about a gladiator sandal. While some of it was a bit OTT there are several pieces (hello denim jinbei) I will be looking for in the come Jan when it hits stores.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dior Homme

Like every season I flock to Kris van Assche's Dior Homme this season got me yet again, shocker! The punk & new wave references combined with sporting elements were spot on. A few items veered a bit too Hot Topic for my taste but in general the mesh and harnesswork made up for the Juggalo pants.

Top Resort '15 review by Mike Tyle

Can we first talk about how many lookbooks Bo Don got this season... was not expecting it but get that money girl!

Before I get on to my (possibly tipsy) Twitter style reviews of the shows... Here you can see all the looks that I liked the most.

Now... onto some shade/no shade.

3.1 Philip Lim: Sixities theme. Safe. Nice colorways. Those pants in look 23... questionable.

Acne: Oversize and quirky. check and check. Both things Acne knows how to do best. Wasn't feeling the bamboo closures.

Akris: Distracting Greek(?) street background. A lot of chic yet German looking casual wear.

Alexander McQueen: Look #3 gave me SS15 menswear vibes, which is a nice pairing. Seemed more McQ to me in that it was pretty wearable for a normal McQueen look book. I'm not a big flower fan near the end... but loving all of the outerwear made up for it!

Alexander Wang: Look #1 was a lot of look to start off with. I do like the idea of incorporating workwear elements which Wang is always keen to do. Wasn't my fave from him but he's busy.

Altuzarra: As always anything Joseph Altuzarra does I am a fan of. The man knows how to make an A-line skirt and baggy blouse work. His corporate chic meets boho-gypsy designs get me every time.

BCBG Max Azria: Anytime there is a windblown look happening it gets a pass... in this case the whole collection was done on a beach. Naturally I had a lot of favorites... call me a basic mall bitch if you will.

Balenciaga: Still working the colorblind look. Luckily there are some sharp silhouettes to match. Wang had me until the asymmetrical hems came out. But again... he's busy between H&M, T and sharing the fabrics with his eponymous line.

Balmain: Binx does Dynasty with a dash of Kim K. Bebe will be all over this.

Bottega Veneta: Doing what a Resort collection was created to do... sell. I really enjoyed the batik direction the 2nd half went into.

Burberry Prorsum: I always look forward to the Burberry look books! They are well photographed and the clothes tell a story. As always everything was nice but I felt the story being told was, well, nothing new.  I mean, ugh, dip-dye? Still going strong I see. The fabrics and looks seemed just like remixes to familiar styles... trench-update aside.

Calvin Klein Collection: I love me some CK collection. That first coat on Ewers was EVERYTHING. Always innovative fabrics and thankfully finally back in a modern clean streamlined silhouette. I am still having nightmares about Pre-Fall 14...

Carven: Sporty yet girly with innovative fabric mix come to me! Gone is the dirndl-esque girl of yesteryear, far from a hater here, but a new more confident woman has emerged. I could have done without the logo but it was still more tastefully done than Wang SS14.

Chanel: I want to say it was bait racist... but I am sure the middle east will eat this collection up and Chanel will have made their quarter profit on the first day it hits stores.

Christopher Kane: I am on the fence. I think a lot can be done with the styles as separates... I really liked all the stories told and while all different went well together. I would personally nix the cheap looking flower pins/buttons. But Kane always needs a little something quirky to show off.

DKNY: I get it. Baseball caps are a look. But 27 of them?

Derek Lam: It worked for Philip Lim. It seems the 60's are an inspiration all around. Keep at it because it works well.

DVF: I can't. Wendy Williams can wear it well but I didn't find anything new here.

Diesel Black Gold: Saint Laurent meets Sandro.

DSquared2: Fierce. Leave it to the twins to bring to life another campy theme. As always 60 & 70's were prevalent and as always I wanted more.

Erdem: The things you can do with lace, flowers and ruffles. In this case it wasn't the usual Erdem affair but one breaking away from the frilly older women and into a more trend-driven playful girl. Gave me F13 Erdem vibes and I am happy to see a revival.

Fendi: Mesh, pop graphics and of course a bit of fur. Binx rocked these Eurocentric looks and the Logo splashed across the items surprisingly added to the fun.

Gucci: following a 60's Mod inspired F14 comes a resort of the same ilk. The only issue I find is in the fact that many looks could also have come out of a J.Crew catalog.

Herve Leger: Pure Sex. Balmain meets Versace and a high-end better manufactured Bebe was born.

Hugo Boss: I am obsessed with Jason Wu's take on the Hugo Boss woman. Clean, chic, modern still very Hugo Boss but with a twist. I look forward to seeing what the next seasons will provide.

Jason Wu: Neutral palette and clean looks. It was feeling a bit in the direction of Boss wich is a good thing in this case.

Jil Sander: I don't know a time when I haven't found something to love about a Jil Sander collection (the same goes for the Navy line) this case it was no different, bell shapes and monochrome colors. Looks like the new Head of Design is a better fit than expected.

Jonathan Saunders: More of this please. Great individual pieces in color block and interesting prints. Basically what one should expect from a Jonathan Saunders collection. Gold, beige, sliver, bright blues... stripes and lamé fabrics gave the 70's feel Saunders is known for.

Josh Groot: Not yet a household name and came a bit out of left fieId but the clean simple modern lines, black and while minimalism got to me.... basically I was LOVING everything.

Kenzo: Was having some F09/S13 LV feelings. Maybe not so much the bunny and mod themes but never the less some of the fabrics and silhouettes went there. As always I expect Leon & Lim to know the direction they want to take us in and know it well. This season was just as bright and graphic as ever. Yet again cementing their way as fan faves.

Lanvin: Nice Lanvin fodder. But I'm mostly here for Jamie Bochert. Throw in some thin scarves in place of heavy jewelry Lanvin is known for and you have Lanvin collection as expected full of high end fabrics and silhouettes to match. 

Louis Vuitton: F14 rehash with more embellishments and spring colors. Enjoyed the innovative fabrics.

MSGM: Keep doing what you are doing. It's working. Graphic, girly yet modern. 

Margiela: Simple- I. Want. Everything.

Marc Jacobs: Mess. Next. 

Marc by Marc: Better than the main line. Also prob more sellable than Bartley & Hilliers first soldier themed (yet v. cool) showing.

Marni: This and very season of Marni need much more publicity. For such a storied fashion house which a specific aesthetic it seriously grows and gets better every fucking season. WORK!!!

Mary Katrantzou: YES. I am so glad she isn't a one trick pony. I am always ALWAYS wondering what she will pull next. She knows what works and how to push it in the next direction. As far as Resort goes this could easily have been a full FW/SS styled collection. 

Miu Miu: Daphnie from Scooby Doo want's her clothes back. If it is one thing that Miu Miu knows how to do it's bringing 60's back every season and making it just as new and cool as always.

Mugler: David Korma for Mugler just makes sense.

Nina Ricci: The only difference between any Nina Ricci collection is basically that since S10 it hasn't been designed by Theyskens. Otherwise just as French and feminine as always.

No. 21: Yet another diffusion line getting it better than the main brand. This seasons No. 21 brought the Italian flair and newness I always expect from them. Wish I could see every girl wearing these clothes.

Peter Pilotto: As always there is A LOT happening. The photos are jarring but as all Pilotto designs look wonderful in real life.

Prabal Gurung: Bold color blocking and graphic paint strokes, but not in the vain of Celine. Always a fan just next time no Lurex please.

Preen: I really don't know which line to review since they are both separate but equal in my eyes. Both showed sport directions with bold colors and fabric mix with the Preen stipe in place. Biggest qualm for me was the cheap looking denim print. Never again. I beg of the two of you.

Proenza Schouler: Bam! Proenza graphics and sharp silhouettes one expects; while theres nothing new  it's all perfect.

Public School; More and more the design duo's line is being talked about and this collection of evolved basics explains why.

Rag & Bone: Effortlessly cool. From the background to the styles themselves. Basically this is how casual should be done. Point blank chic.

Roksanda Ilincic: Work those color block statements! A very impressive collection this season. Zglad to see Roksanda growing into a well-rounded yet distinct look.

Stella McCartney: Fun & serious. 2 things the Stella customer looks for. I personally liked the first 10 looks (strong silhouettes) and the last 10 looks (full on bold stripes and paisley).

Suno: wasn't feeling it these season.

Thakoon: What can I say I always find Thakoon enjoyable but I also think it's always at risk of becoming a Zara collection that costs more and has better fabrics.

The Row: I don't want to say they are taking notes from Margiela but the fabrics the design aesthetic and the silhouette are putting the Twins at the same level.

Thom Browne: Crazy show is crazy. The aftermath that will actually make it to stores will be crave-worthy. Who knew prep and florals could work. I mean it's overloaded to the max but it's Thom Browne. Somehow the end product always makes sense.

Tory Burch: The things this woman could make me like... In general I am not a fan but when I see the look books and catwalk shows every season it make me understand why she is banking so much. Think Anthro and Banana Republic had a baby.

Valentino: Unlike when Chanel does 90 looks for a resort collection I am ALWAYS excited to go through Valentino's creations. I could have done without the butterfly cammo they are still trying to make happen but everything else was perfection. What other brand can meld the medieval looks they churn out every seasons with 60's style mod dresses?! I especially loved the crazy block graphics and of course the leather laser cut lace. Which is saying a lot since not many people besides Prada F08 can make me feel that way about lace.

Vionnet: Dragonfly print was a cool idea.

part deux by Mike Tyle

The second half of my trip home was spent in upstate NY visiting my good friend and all around awesome lady Krysta. She was home for the summer from London and while we are only a hop, skip and a jump away from one another in Europe we seem to find ourselves in the U.S. at the best time to be in the U.S.- summer!

We spent most the time doing what we do best... visiting sites, eating food, enjoying a beach/pool/mini-cooper. Below are some examples doing just that.

 

At the Empire State Plaza in Albany, NY.

Had I known about the dinner plans this would have just been a day outfit...

Krysta told me we were going out but I didn't know we were GOING OUT...

Krysta- sunglasses: Prada, dress: Herve Leger, purse: Louis Vuitton

Me- shirt: J.Crew, bow tie: vintage Lanvin, shorts: COS, belt: Fossil, sandals: Mango, sunglasses: Burberry

At the lake house. It's not summer unless booty shorts and chips are involved!

tank: Topman, swimsuit: Diesel

sweatshirt: Acne, shorts: Topman

I had to.

One last dip before the plane ride back!

mesh sweatshirt: D&G, bathing suit: Diesel, sunglasses: Burberry