Quick highlights and keywords to know when shopping the big stories of the season from the major brands.
There isn't much to say that hasn't already been said but I am very impressed with how many of the invitees actually stayed on theme this year compared to years past (I'm looking at you Punk: Chaos to Couture). Have a look at the Vogue instagram compilation video to get a feel for some of the amazing looks of the evening and check out my fave looks below.
As I finish the men's FW directional I've been simultaneously work on the womenswear I've noticing quite a few trends are overlapping in key categories this season in knitwear and oversize silhouettes as well as the use of velvet, checks and stripes. Take a look below at how the male take on the trends evolve before crossing over into their female equivalent in the coming post.
Seen on the majority of catwalks with many showing retro checked coats and grunge plaid. Ranging broadly from traditional blackwatch/tartan heritage, lumberjack and buffalo checks.
Chunky knits are always important come winter and this year is no different. The focus is more on the oversize longer, more voluminous and slouchy.
Stripes are fused with relaxed lounge appeal, appearing in contemporary comfort-inspired pieces.
An evolving trend the past few seasons now being shown more modern and less obtrusive retro way.
Big in all directions. Trousers getting a longer rise and are worn just above the waist for a retro quality. Coats and tops with dropped shoulders and elongated sleeves and boxy cuts lending them a grown-up feel.
Shearling is moving away from collars and lining and onto the face of the boxier, wider, roomier pieces featured on several shapes including the iconic aviator and trucker jackets.
While it has always been a staple fabric the past few seasons are reinventing denim by going back to the basics of simple, clean high and low washes.
Velvet is most understandable in winter months as a sharp looks for parties but as seen this year the looks are more paired down as casual either as a loose fitting trouser or a bomber..
Among the multitude of technical fabric offerings, a military reference updates this functional category.
Taking the 90's references and track suit styling and remixing it for the ski slopes this coming winter.
Helps to convey looser, more voluminous statements on trend in the oversize category but also seen in a classic retro modern take on sharp tailoring .
W magazine put out a video yesterday featuring many of fashions most well known and inner circle elites giving recognition to the fact that society is made stronger when it is diverse and all should be respected as members of our multicultural nation.
As someone who has been an emigrant several times in life I know how difficult it can be but I also realize how easy I have had it and how, sadly, there are many people who are often times mistreated by a countries misguided choices.
Yes, the runway shows were July of 2016 and yes I already did a report or 2 on my favorite shows... ok 4 posts... but this one is not about what is coming but what has hit the shop floors now so by April or July you don't look like a loser. And since it's 60 degrees out today (ok, tomorrow we have a winter storm warning of 8 in. of snow...) I want to embrace Spring!
Top 4 menswear themes:
This season, it's all about the stripes! Floral made his entrance in men's wardrobe and good old basics as denim and sport are still very effective.
Thin stripes, Brenton stripes, pinstripes. Get 'em all!
Athleisure takes a turn in a more slick retro direction -aka- get a zip-up and a windbreaker.
I know big shocker! But unlike the denim you already own the new direction is patchwork and acid wash driven.
Top 4 menswear pieces:
Trench coats, raincoats, wide leg trousers and bombers are the top four menswear piece trends this season. Showcased in a huge amount of the shows, menswear becomes casual, elegant and sporty.
This menswear staple is still going strong. I mean everyone always looks cool in one.
This could go real wrong real fast proceed with caution. A silky or suit fabric in a tailored look but no JNCO style!
Not just for flashers and Inspector Gadget! make sure you get one that hits you correctly at the knee.
Don't get caught in the springtime rain without one.
Last week, in NYC, I was invited to a 1-day pop-up shop preview of the collection which started hitting Ikea's all over the world this week. It was super exciting to see all the new and interesting items Ikea has come up with in the "Young Urban Life" themed collection. In a departure from earlier PS lines, which are limited-edition injections every 3 years, this time the use of bold color and shape was integrated with the important value of new material, fabrication techniques, and product types. Such as a 3-D knitted chair or vases made from recycled glass.
I have to say I am quite surprised by the addition to the label! Raf and team have enough on their plate with this umbrella of a brand to work with that adding yet another line wasn't something I saw coming. But I think it a great way to bring his past experience of couture to a label known for its minimalist sportswear regardless of how viable it will be. I mean it's not like CK is hurting for cash so they might as well bring forward a made-to-measure line that was before exclusive to red carpet starlets.
Aside from that it's interesting to see how Raf reinvents Americana in this 14 look collection, each representing a decade in American woman's fashion from the 20-00 reinvented.
The ad images are a tongue in cheek view of what CK has to offer from it's money maker underwear to the new high-end one of a kind pieces. It also give us an idea of what to expect from the direction Raf will lead future campaigns and the clothes we will all be lining up to buy.
In NY the winters are similar in temp to Brussels (until it decided to snow 6 in. last week) however I was home over the holidays in Detroit where it's fucking freezing at -15 most nights. Needless to say, I was very happy to be reunited with my winter coats! Of which I have plenty... I am kind of a outerwear whore. My fave styles I brought back to the city with me are a vintage 60's field jacket and two Kooples styles: a duffle coat and a down jacket with raccoon fur lined hood.
Being in NYC I am in the shopping Mecca, however I haven't been in the shopping mood... which is shocking coming from me. The guy who literally has a monthly budget for clothes. It could be because I am schlepping them all over the city every day for work. Hello, 12 mile Thursday Fitbit calculation!
However, I do love a deal and a sample sale. Luck would have it there is a company called 260 that really get some great brands daily through their doors. Be it Wang, J.Crew, Scotch & Soda, Sandro... It's impressive and always a nice surprise. Sign up for the listserv and get ready for the next amazing find.
Also check out my NYC map for lots of other great places to shop that I've found!
We are in the middle of Menswear FW17 at the moment so get ready for even more mens fashion posts to follow!
I recently went to a brunch at a speakeasy in Chelsea called Bathtub Gin. It's hidden behind a small to-go coffee shop and honestly if I hadn't asked I wouldn't have known it was there! But once the trap door opens there is a huge yet intimate dimly-lit restaurant with an amazing bar and what was to be a great brunch menu. I had wonderful cornflake and coconut crusted French toasted brioche with fresh berries. Naturally, accompanied by a gin cocktail!
This past month there have been so many amazing speeches made in defiance of suppression. After this weekends Women's March I was thrilled to hear all the inspiring words from Gloria Steinem, Angela Davis, Madonna, Scarlet Johansson... however those that stuck out to me most were Ashley Judd & America Ferrera:
By now everyone has seen the great Meryl Streep Golden Globes acceptance speech and her point rings true. "Take your broke heart, make it into art."
Trumpcast. Every week like clockwork. It's the best podcast to make sense of the ludicrousness that is Trump and sadly our Twilight Zone of a future.
The Fall & Winter months edition. Why is this coming out in January you may ask yourself?
It's sale time so everything listed below will be easy and cheap to find especially important since men, in general, don't shop.
Also, thanks to global warming this is when winter finally hits. Albeit stores turning to Spring/Summer already nobody will be wearing that until July sales come around... leading us back to reason 1 and completing the circle of the maybe 2x a man goes into a store a year.
Now take some notes gentleman (or gf/bf/mom of said guy).
This is the first and most important hurdle for many men. The key to looking good is to not be a sloppy ass mess. That starts and ends with how the clothes fit your body. This will impact your mood, your posture and in turn, your confidence.
The right fit means the right proportions= the right look. Don't fuck it up.
Talking to a friend who designs outerwear, shout out to you Isabell, explained to me if you put enough pockets on it they will come.
Basically, men like to think that they can do things and every pocket/zip/button/hook... is a technical element creating interest and versatility to a garment.
I get it. The functionality adds newness to the styling and adds value in eye of the consumer. I'm looking at you G.Star... so many details.
From a design standpoint this is a place where creativity can work it's magic!
As a merchandiser I automatically think how can I remove items because how the fuck am I going to cost this out with each extra little detail.
Personally as a minimalist I prefer clothing that is free of any accoutrement. However that doesn't mean the functionality is lost. You'll be a lot happier in a pair of Hunter boots & a Rains jacket during a Lake District hike whereas a thin, overpriced, yet immaculate #likebutter Rick Owens turtleneck will function perfectly in an art gallery setting.
This is key to achieve a multitude of looks. Once you've got the form and function under your belt you can literally tuck it in or hide it with a blazer! To get a good idea of what this means look at basically any J.Crew catalog.
4. Mix It Up
Have fun! Really part 2 or #3, this is key to dressing down an overly formal look and perfect for the modern office. Swap the classic shirt for an easy plaid or chambray option. To tie the look together put a sporty sweatshirt under a smart blazer and cuffed denim. Unexpected styling adds to the modern heritage trend that every guy wants to embody at some point.
5. The Chambray Shirt
Easy to wear and adaptable aka you wont look whack as fuck with this oldie but goodie. Just trust me.
6. Knitwear Hybrid
It's cold but not that cold... remember the functionality of point 2, here is where a sweater does the job but the trend factor comes in. 2-become-1 as knitwear becomes outerwear aka a chunky cardigan.
Look for chunky ribs and twisted yarns to create the right texture and weight for this jack of all trades. Thank me later or instead just go and buy a light down jacket at Uniqlo and call it a day. You'll be happy either way.
7. The Sweatshirt
The star of this new era of laid back dressing is the humble loop-back sweatshirt. Worn with smart chinos and sneakers, this is a key piece in the topic for wardrobe building. Works with separates and perfect for layering. Comfy enough for a lazy Sunday but nice enough to layer up on Monday at the office.
Salt & Pepper surfaces, space dyed yarns, mossy textures create the feeling of the season... Have I lost you already?
Just remember adding textured surfaces to plain crew necks add interest and a level of casual cool.
9. Shearling Jacket
Attention to detail with shearling trims. A cosiness is created with the teddy bear optic. A simple and effective way to elevate outerwear styles.
Started as a trend item the past few seasons and has grown to be a wardrobe staple.
Don't be scared, embrace something other than black and navy... unless your a Dutch man reading this. One look in a Scotch & Soda store tells me you guys got color and pattern down.
Key color statements most men can easily wear, especially in winter months, are jewel tones. Everyone looks good in them!
Traveling as much as I do I have become accustomed to knowing what actually fits in a carry-on and 1 checked item.
Christmas time is no different! So when my Mom was begging to know what I wanted I made it clear I need anything to be packable.
This year I was lucky enough to get a few of the items I've been wanting from my wish lists.
Here are a few of my favorite things. Click through the images for more info.
It's always time for Moscow Mules! I had been searching everywhere for the perfect mugs but after several online attempts and multiple store searches I finally found the perfect style for me. Clean & minimal, yes please. Bring on the ginger beer!
Ok, so there may be an alcohol theme appearing... But one of my all time favorites is Aperol Spritz. Reminds me of walking around Venice or really anywhere in Europe in Spring/Summer. Not only does this book have many recipes for the perfect aperitivo, and the hors d'œuvre to go with them, but also a fascinating history of the sprezzatura way of life.
Always a fan of the HBIC Martha I was here for this book came out. I love the idea of cooking but realistically I'm better at watching others cook for me... However, One Pot changes that! I am very capable of dumping everything in 1 place and voilà... dinner for 2.
First stop, One Pot Pasta. Life. Changer.
Unbeknownst to me this bad boy is literally the size as pictured! It's an industrial monster, as far as fabric shavers go, it is also amazing.
The pilling I was able to get off in record time on a couple of my fave COS sweaters is shocking. I can't wait to have a go at all my knitwear!
I am that much of a loser.